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3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
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Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
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Full Width Axle's in a EB,
- Thread starter ThisEndUp
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 49,428
Back to the top.
I know quite a few members here have done it, but I don’t remember any of them mentioning a specific pinion angle as a primary goal. Usually they talk about caster and then let the initial pinion angle fall where it may.
Of course many times they will later try to modify that to get it to its near zero optimum.
You do, however, need to pay attention to it, along with the all important Caster.
They are unfortunately, intimately related, and to get a happy medium with both, you usually have to cut and turn the outer steering yokes (referred to as the “inner C” so that you can get a near zero pinion angle, and 4 to 6° of caster.
With a double-cardan driveshaft type, like what you typically use with a Bronco, you need the front differential pinion angle to point nearly into the driveshaft centerline.
This isn’t as critical up front as it is in the back, because the back has the pinion rise and fall with acceleration and deceleration because of the leaf springs.
Due to the rigid, or almost rigid, mounting of the radius arms, the front differential does not change angle as much. So you can get away with a more offset angle.
However, getting it near the centerline of the driveshaft is still a good goal. This also keeps the double card and angles minimized.
Luckily, the high pinion axles have a lot of caster built-in, and an easier to achieve nominal angle.
You can mock it up with the appropriate pinion angle and see where your caster falls. But you really do want good caster numbers for road manners.
The pinion angle can be secondary because, when it comes right down to it, is only important in four-wheel-drive.
But if you pay attention to both in the initial build, you do it right, and only have to do it once.
I know quite a few members here have done it, but I don’t remember any of them mentioning a specific pinion angle as a primary goal. Usually they talk about caster and then let the initial pinion angle fall where it may.
Of course many times they will later try to modify that to get it to its near zero optimum.
You do, however, need to pay attention to it, along with the all important Caster.
They are unfortunately, intimately related, and to get a happy medium with both, you usually have to cut and turn the outer steering yokes (referred to as the “inner C” so that you can get a near zero pinion angle, and 4 to 6° of caster.
With a double-cardan driveshaft type, like what you typically use with a Bronco, you need the front differential pinion angle to point nearly into the driveshaft centerline.
This isn’t as critical up front as it is in the back, because the back has the pinion rise and fall with acceleration and deceleration because of the leaf springs.
Due to the rigid, or almost rigid, mounting of the radius arms, the front differential does not change angle as much. So you can get away with a more offset angle.
However, getting it near the centerline of the driveshaft is still a good goal. This also keeps the double card and angles minimized.
Luckily, the high pinion axles have a lot of caster built-in, and an easier to achieve nominal angle.
You can mock it up with the appropriate pinion angle and see where your caster falls. But you really do want good caster numbers for road manners.
The pinion angle can be secondary because, when it comes right down to it, is only important in four-wheel-drive.
But if you pay attention to both in the initial build, you do it right, and only have to do it once.
