GM 1 ton TRO reaming

[Rymadd]

Hey, done some research but not getting the answers I'm looking for. I ordered the ruff stuff Tie rod over kit, and I ordered a reamer. My understanding was I can just ream the knuckles from the top side down and install the new TREs on top of the knuckle. However That looks like it will only clean up about half way into the knuckle and end up making an hour glass shape in the hole for lack of a better word. Can anybody tell me if I am missing something?

I have seen the inserts where you just drill a hole through the knuckle, but not sure why I bought the reamer If I just need a big drill bit.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tinytim02]

I have the GM 1 ton TRO kit from http://extremecustomparts.com/

I'm using F-150 knuckles. Reamed the knuckles from the top and am using a tapered bushing (can't remember where I got them, it's been a while). I had some concerns about the "hour glass" shape of the hole as well.

The inserts you are talking about require drilling the knuckles out with a .75" bit. I didn't see that option until after I got my reamer/bushings. Might have done that instead.

Tim

 

[DanHall]

I just reamed from the top and haven't had any problems.

 

[Rymadd]

If anybody knows were to get tapered bushings that would be awesome, I would rather not cut more material out of the knuckle then I need, a 3/4" hole would take a lot of metal out, but I also want some contact with the TREs.

 

[AxlesUp]

that is why i bought the reamer and the inserts for the 7/8 bit.

I'll use the reamer for the drag link pieces and the inserts for the knuckles. I have f350 knuckles so there is a lot of meat left over!!!!!!!!


a lot of people did the hour glass thing and say they have no trouble. i guess i am a worry wart.

 

[sykanr0ng]

Leaving it reamed like an hourglass seems counter to the whole idea behind putting one ton tie-rod ends.
Seriously, if you are building it that beefy, why would you leave a weakness or a wear point?

Or is it all about looks?
Poseur or function?

 

[Rymadd]

Doing this on a full width Dana 44 hp, I haven't been able to find a tapered bushing.

 

[ET]

Doing this on a full width Dana 44 hp, I haven't been able to find a tapered bushing.

Ruffstuff sells them.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER-2PK.html

When I did mine back in 05, there was zero mentioning of the tapper bushing. I don't think anyone made one. Reamed the knuckles and went about my business. I've wheeled it as hard as non hydro assist bronco could. The rod ends where tight when I swap them for heim joints.

The arm is pretty beefy. Your drilling a 7/8" hole for the bushing. I won't think shops would be selling something that's going to be a problem.
edit: I need to add, IMO.

Eugene

 

[Rymadd]

Are those sleeves where you drill the 7/8 hole welded to the knuckle? if not I feel like there would be some slop there unless they are made a few thou oversize and you press them in. I though I read somewhere a while back that somebody makes a tapered sleeve on both sides so you ream the hole from the top 1/10 of an inch oversize (or whatever) slide the sleeve in, then the tie rod end, then crank it all tight with a wrench.

 

[Rymadd]

http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=37_82&products_id=96

These are what I'm looking for but that fit a GM 1 ton. IDK how close the f150 size is, it looks like they are also the 7 degree taper

 

[navalbronco66]

Ruffstuff sells them.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER-2PK.html

When I did mine back in 05, there was zero mentioning of the tapper bushing. I don't think anyone made one. Reamed the knuckles and went about my business. I've wheeled it as hard as non hydro assist bronco could. The rod ends where tight when I swap them for heim joints.

The arm is pretty beefy. Your drilling a 7/8" hole for the bushing. I won't think shops would be selling something that's going to be a problem.
edit: I need to add, IMO.

Eugene

That's nice, and you don't have to buy a reamer. Anyone have pics of this stuff installed.

 

[ET]

I would contact Ruffstuff on details. I'd guess they would make it size bigger so you can tap them in for tight fit.

I'm not sure on BCBroncos. Their look to be an adapter. If you ream the top, wouldn't you still have the hourglass effect. Just not as wide on the bottom opening.

Eugene

 

[sykanr0ng]

It is already tapered from below, then you ream it from the top, the early Bronco knuckles have a smaller hole than the F150 so most of it will clean up but with the F150 you will get this where the solid red is missing metal:

 

[ET]

Another thought is to just weld in the gap created by reaming from top with BCBronco's bushing. If you have a welder.

Eugene

 

[asmith140]

Tre over

Ream from top
Bushing in from bottom

 

[Rymadd]

It is already tapered from below, then you ream it from the top, the early Bronco knuckles have a smaller hole than the F150 so most of it will clean up but with the F150 you will get this where the solid red is missing metal:

Exactly what I'm talking about, what I was thinking was if you reamed from the top oversized until it cleaned out all the way to the bottom, then you have the right taper from the right size. Drop a sleeve in from the top that is a 7 degree taper inside and out, then drop the tie rod end into the sleeve it would all wedge together, no slop, not air gap, supported all the way around.

Not sure if this is made, or if the BC broncos bushing is close enough I could weld it in and ream it a little.

Starting to look like nobody has done this, but think it would be better then just a straight 7/8 hole with no taper.