Going back to LUBR

[Tuloyuser]

H everyone,
What's the best way to go back to lubr?
- replace whole panel? Or
- patch the cut out piece?

Thanks


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[Bajabrewer]

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/19...arter-Panel-Newest-Tooling/productinfo/14102/

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/19...arter-Panel-Newest-Tooling/productinfo/14103/

Replace the entire quarter panel is easier & will be straighter - not warped from welding. Looks like they're on sale right now too.

 

[Tuloyuser]

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/19...arter-Panel-Newest-Tooling/productinfo/14102/

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/19...arter-Panel-Newest-Tooling/productinfo/14103/

Replace the entire quarter panel is easier & will be straighter - not warped from welding. Looks like they're on sale right now too.

Thanks @Bejabrewer,

To get to the spot weld would I have to remove the passenger corner? and the hard top post slot?

 

[BroncoBub]

Dennis Carpenter still your best bet. $9.99 shipping under $100 and $14.99 over $100

https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/bronco/body/sheet-metal/c6tz-9627817-a-os-lower-quarter-panel-lh

https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/bronco/body/sheet-metal/c6tz-9627816-a-os-lower-quarter-panel-rh

 

[mebco09]

Thanks @Bejabrewer,

To get to the spot weld would I have to remove the passenger corner? and the hard top post slot?

I think you might be able to get to them from the taillight hole and from underneath. Ive been poking around mine to replace my quarters also.

 

[duffymahoney]

The aftermarket rear quarters don't fit great, in a perfect world stock quarters are much better, check my build.

 

[Bajabrewer]

To get to the spot weld would I have to remove the passenger corner? and the hard top post slot?

I didn't remove the corners when I did mine - I cut about 1/2" from the seam & got to the spot welds that way. I was also dealing with a crusty, rusty, hacked & bondo filled rear quarter. Check post 22 from duffymahoney's build(Awesome job BTW)
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=259028
that may be your best bet if the majority of your rear quarter is rust free. Just take your time welding it so it doesn't warp.

 

[jamesroney]

Thanks @Bejabrewer,

To get to the spot weld would I have to remove the passenger corner? and the hard top post slot?

You don't HAVE to. But unless that corner is perfect, it's way faster.

 

[reamer]

Got to ask, What does LUBR stand for?

 

[Tuloyuser]

Got to ask, What does LUBR stand for?

L - Lifted
U - Uncut
BR - BRonco

 

[Tuloyuser]

To get to the spot weld would I have to remove the passenger corner? and the hard top post slot?

I didn't remove the corners when I did mine - I cut about 1/2" from the seam & got to the spot welds that way. I was also dealing with a crusty, rusty, hacked & bondo filled rear quarter. Check post 22 from duffymahoney's build(Awesome job BTW)
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=259028
that may be your best bet if the majority of your rear quarter is rust free. Just take your time welding it so it doesn't warp.

Thanks @Bejabrewer

The aftermarket rear quarters don't fit great, in a perfect world stock quarters are much better, check my build.

@duffmahoney amazing build!

You don't HAVE to. But unless that corner is perfect, it's way faster.

@jamesroney That looks like a good way to get to those spot welds.


Thanks everyone for the input

 

[mebco09]

The aftermarket rear quarters don't fit great, in a perfect world stock quarters are much better, check my build.

X2 on this...when it comes to bed corners.

I'd even try patching rust holes with metal and leaving them in place. I have 3 repops- 2 driver and 1 passenger in my shop and they are all different sizes and the body lines are all different. They must stamp them in China with worn out dies.

I'll post photos later of how not to make it look on my 77. It's embarrassing.

 

[gnpenning]

X2 on this...when it comes to bed corners.

I'd even try patching rust holes with metal and leaving them in place. I have 3 repops- 2 driver and 1 passenger in my shop and they are all different sizes and the body lines are all different. They must stamp them in China with worn out dies.

I'll post photos later of how not to make it look on my 77. It's embarrassing.

That's a shame. Who was just advertising using new dies??

Have you seen any of fritzee fabrication videos??

 

[markw]

I've done both patch and replace. Replace is much easier. As mentioned it's very hard to patch without warping everything.


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[1sicbronconut]

I did the patch method, cut about 2" from the edges, flanged the part left on the Bronco and used panel adhesive and a few spot welds to fasten mine on. I'm planning a on re-doing mine in the near future since I have a few seems starting to show my LUBER has lead a rough life on the trail with quite a few impacts on the corner guards that have sent some pretty good shocks through the sheet metal.

 

[mebco09]

That's a shame. Who was just advertising using new dies??

Have you seen any of fritzee fabrication videos??

Here is what not to do. I did not do this, but I am going to have to fix it. Probably will start a new thread when I do for some input.

Lots of things to try to line up, corner body lines, bottom of panels, on a 77, you have those gas doors etc. I think it is best to try to save whatever factory parts you have because a corner stamped by one aftermarket company might not match the dimensions of another companies fender skin.

I originally was going to replace the corners, but I think my fender skin is hanging 1/4" too low, and crooked. When you shine a flashlight in the taillight hole, you get a nice beam of light through the gaps.

I guess as it pertains to this thread, try to save as much factory as possible.

 

[Madgyver]

H everyone,
What's the best way to go back to lubr?
- replace whole panel? Or
- patch the cut out piece?

Thanks

The best way you ask?

Have someone else that you trust do it for you.
It will not be the cheapest way.