Grounding Issues: Type of Ground Wire?

[76BroncoSport]

I've been having some grounding issues lately and I've been running regular type protected battery wires for my grounds. I've heard that braided wires with no rubber protection on them are best. First of all, can someone tell me why that is? Can I get 'em at most places? I don't remember seeing them at Autozone or O'reillys.

Also, just checking again but a properly grounded car would go something like from the battery to the block, from the block to the frame & from the block to the body? Is there anything else I might need to know besides using sand paper to get the connection points down to bare metal? Thanks for your replies guys, this stuff is really annoying! :-

 

[76BroncoSport]

I finally found soime hefty 4 ga. braided ground wires. Could someone let me know if I have the grounding points correct? Thanks guys!

 

[Jeepster]

most parts palaces will have em. from the battery to the block I would just use a battery cable. all the other points braded. Why braded? flexability?.....yeah thats it. ;D

 

[bert]

I like to have a ground to the body directly from the battery as well.

 

[76BroncoSport]

My dad told me that most people use braided cables for grounds because it get's more "flow" or whatever through it and has more surface area. He said that the protected type regular battery cable will only flow around the outside of the cable and not flow through the center or core of the cable. It seems like it makes sense...

 

[ASE-73]

I use "Welding Cable" ... more strands than battery wire and has neoprene insulation, so it is significantly more flexible. I also use 0/2 gauge ... overkill, but I want maximum current so WTF given the cost difference is minimal.

The flat braided non-insulated grounding straps are used for FLEXIBILITY ... that is the only benefit. Typical uses are to ground moveable assemblies (like a hood) or for vibrating assemblies (like an engine/transmission).

I run 0/2 "Welding Cable" from the battery negative post direct to the ...

1) Engine Block (cable 1)
2) Frame and Body (cable 2)

Welding wire is FLEXIBLE and looks really good. I would go at least 0/1 gauge.

 

[76BroncoSport]

[quote author=ASE-73 link=board=5;threadid=15859;start=0#msg120062 date=1049143131]
I run 0/2 Welding Wire" from the battery negative post direct to the ...

1) Engine Block (cable 1)
2) Frame and Body (cable 2)

Welding wire is FLEXIBLE and looks really good. I would go at least 0/1 gauge.
[/quote]

First of all, how do you run one cable from the battery to both the body and frame?

Second, is "welding wire" safe to use and where do I get it? Thanks for your help,

Jon

 

[Lttrbox]

First of all, how do you run one cable from the battery to both the body and frame?

I dont know, but you should be able to run cables end to end where they attache to another ground, in affect getting a single cable.

Second, is "welding wire" safe to use and where do I get it?

I dont dont thing ASE-73 was referring to welding wire as in Mig wire. I think he is referring to the cable like the arc welder cables.

 

[76BroncoSport]

ah, ok. Like copper conductor arc welding cables?

 

[76BroncoSport]

Should a place such as Lowes carry 'em?

 

[Krusher]

[quote author=76BroncoSport link=board=5;threadid=15859;start=0#msg120075 date=1049144565]
Should a place such as Lowes carry 'em?
[/quote]

Here's a thought for you that has worked quite well for me. I used 4 ga. wire that I purchased at a local stereo installation shop, the kind that is used to wire high powered amps/sound systems. Bought some 4 ga. wire ends and soldered them to precut lengths of the 4 ga. wire. I picked a point on the right hand side of the frame just inside the inner wheel well that had a predrilled and tapped 5/8 hole. I ran a ground cable from the battery to the frame, another cable from the frame to the block, and a third cable from the frame to the body. This method is commonly refered to as a "stared" grounding system. All grounding points originate from the same common point.

 

[76BroncoSport]

well explained, thanks man.

 

[Dennis]

Grounding straps are one of things you put into your tool box on trips to pick and pull ;D

 

[76BroncoSport]

stealer! hehe, some of those junk yard dudes deserve it anyway.

 

[ASE-73]

[quote author=76BroncoSport link=board=5;threadid=15859;start=0#msg120067 date=1049143856]
[quote author=ASE-73 link=board=5;threadid=15859;start=0#msg120062 date=1049143131]
I run 0/2 Welding Wire" from the battery negative post direct to the ...

1) Engine Block (cable 1)
2) Frame and Body (cable 2)

Welding wire is FLEXIBLE and looks really good. I would go at least 0/1 gauge.
[/quote]

First of all, how do you run one cable from the battery to both the body and frame?

Second, is "welding wire" safe to use and where do I get it? Thanks for your help,

Jon
[/quote]

Yes, "welding cable" is exactly the same as battery cable, but has finer copper stranding with neoprene insulation ... significantly more flexible than battery cable. It is commonly used in marine applications.

Check out http://www.delcity.net/wirecable.html ... this exactly what you want. I used a "flag" battery post terminal ... meaning it has two cables coming off the battery post. I ran one to the Engine Block and the other to a ground post (bolt) welded to the frame. I then ran a single cable from the frame (ground) post to the body. Del City has the battery flag connector and end connectors. They are a great supplier for electrical supplies (cost and service).

 

[76BroncoSport]

i got it all figured out tonight with the help of all your replies. I ended up making sure all the grounding points were down to bare metal and then using the "star pattern" battery to frame and then from the frame to the body and to the block...it's all taken care of and it couldn't have been done without everyone's input, thanks again!

Jon