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Harbor freight spot welder

bflippinw

Full Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2011
Messages
244
Anybody use the harbor freight 240v spot welder. I'm gettin tired of grinding down plug welds from my mig. Thinking of buying one and trying it for my inner and outer rockers, kick panels etc where the tongs would reach.
 

WILDHORSES

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Bought one, used it a few times. Did the job I needed it for. I would not try to go into production work with it. For occasional repairs, works for me.
 
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bflippinw

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Nov 10, 2011
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244
Spot welder

Did it seem like the welds were strong enough? I guess I could mix in some plug welds also.
 

360 4V

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Feb 3, 2011
Messages
519
Harbor Freight welders are very cumbersome. They won't return quality work in the hands of an experienced welder and make welding impossible for a beginner. Get a quality Lincoln, Miller or Hobart arc welder and learn how to use it.

I think you whould get used to grinding down your welds. Sheet metal work is an art. It is worth going the extra mile so you have quality work.
 
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bflippinw

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Nov 10, 2011
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I'm as happy with a grinder in my hand as anybody else on here. If I could not have to grind say 200 of the maybe 1000 welds I have to do I'd be happier though. Some of the mustang guys go back with a spot welder just so they can see factory looking dimples from spotwelds. Plug welds are all ground smooth. I don't really care if I see dimples or not, just looking to speed things up. Not gonna sacrifice quality though.
 

360 4V

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Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
519
Ideally your skill would improve to the point of having minimal clean up work. For think material, a Tig welder will provide a cleaner weld than a Mig. What Mig welder are you using? Are you welding on shielding gas or flux? I use flux on thick metal.
 

broncodriver99

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Jan 27, 2008
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I have one of the 115V HF spot welders. The tongs are pretty short so there are limitations as to what you can do with it. I did everything I could reach with it and plug welded the rest.

Something to NOT waste your money on is the Eastwood Arc/Spot welder. That thing is junk and has very poor penetration.
 
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bflippinw

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Nov 10, 2011
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244
I'm relatively new here, been replacing sheet metal on my first bronco but this isn't my first project. Classic broncos has helped a great deal with info. I usually just use the site for info and don't post much. 360 4v, honestly u rubbed me a little wrong with your first reply. Seemed a little judgmental about my skill, but I figured hey, maybe he's some professional welder. I just came across your tailgate repair thread and obviously u should not give welding advice. I doubt you even know what I'm talking about. WTF. To everyone else, thanks for all your knowledge.
 

broncodriver99

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Jan 27, 2008
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I bought one of these about 15-20 years ago: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-spot-weld-gun.html It felt so cheap I have have never used it. If fact, I'm afraid to try it out. I think I'll get electrocuted! Just garbage! Feels like it's made by Playschool.

Yep that's the POS I was talking about. After about 10 crappy "spot" welds, it had gotten so hot that the cheap plastic warped and a screw fell out. Several of those welds had really poor penetration and broke immediately.
 

ren71

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
536
I'm relatively new here, been replacing sheet metal on my first bronco but this isn't my first project. Classic broncos has helped a great deal with info. I usually just use the site for info and don't post much. 360 4v, honestly u rubbed me a little wrong with your first reply. Seemed a little judgmental about my skill, but I figured hey, maybe he's some professional welder. I just came across your tailgate repair thread and obviously u should not give welding advice. I doubt you even know what I'm talking about. WTF. To everyone else, thanks for all your knowledge.

Dontcha know, everyone is an expert on internet! =)
 
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bflippinw

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Nov 10, 2011
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244
Rustbucket, that Eastwood part for the mig appears to just be a clamp and a torch nozzle with a step in it to hold the gun off the metal u are welding. Wouldn't be able to use the clamp in most places. Interesting though.
 

Bronco717274

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Jan 27, 2008
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Tremont, Ms.
I'm interested in this also, I'm about to replace my front floors and bed area. Wildhorses would the HF spotwelder work for this or are the tongs not long enough. Thanks
 

bmc69

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Joined
Jun 11, 2004
Messages
11,867
He is asking about a spot welder. Tig is great if you have a nice clean surface. For welding coated, dirty, rusted sheet metal the MIG and Spot welders are best.

That. And TIG is not worth spit for plug welding panels together either (probably 90% of the welds used in body repair...at least in my body repairs anyways) ...a MIG welder is far superior for that; stick is the next choice in pinch.
 
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bflippinw

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Nov 10, 2011
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244
Tongs r only 6" long or so u can buy longer ones. Don't think u could do anything on your floors. I was hoping to use them on inner and outer rockers, and kick panels, inner fenders where they meet wheel tubs. Possibly front edge of cowl panels.
 

WILDHORSES

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Nov 7, 2003
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I'm interested in this also, I'm about to replace my front floors and bed area. Wildhorses would the HF spotwelder work for this or are the tongs not long enough. Thanks

I would mig and grind. That way I know it's going to hold. Also I don't think the tongs are long enough but I have never tried it.
 

NGABronco

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Feb 4, 2007
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N. GA now South Carolina
I have the 120V HF unit and it works great for bench work, too heavy and cumberson to use on the body. Worked well when making patch panels to fit onto floor pans, places that were rusted past the store bought panels. The metal needs to be pretty clean for it to weld!!! I MIG'd the rest.

This was a handy tool!!!
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-punch-flange-tool-1110.html
Good luck!!!;D;D;D
 
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