Hard Top Fix?

[nj_thusar]

I'm an expert in JB Welding, but mig not so much. Any thoughts?

 

[DirtDonk]

Yummy, what fun!
Looks to me like a candidate for replacement panels. Pretty much the entire hard top is available in new metal, but I've never actually done the work.
So I have no idea what's the best way to proceed at this point, but plenty here have had to fix those areas on their tops, so knowledge should flow soon.
In the meantime, back to the top.

Paul

 

[nj_thusar]

Yummy, what fun!
Looks to me like a candidate for replacement panels. Pretty much the entire hard top is available in new metal, but I've never actually done the work.
So I have no idea what's the best way to proceed at this point, but plenty here have had to fix those areas on their tops, so knowledge should flow soon.
In the meantime, back to the top.

Paul

Thanks -

I've been looking for donor parts. My budget doesn't have a new panel in the cards. Blew the budget on new rocks and jams

 

[mebco09]

I've never worked on that section of top before, but I have filled in holes of that size with a MIG. If you can get behind it with a backing plate that you can hide (under the headliner?) after paint, then those holes are pretty easy to MIG shut, grind and fill.

That many holes will take a while to repair. Heat is not your friend.

 

[nj_thusar]

I've never worked on that section of top before, but I have filled in holes of that size with a MIG. If you can get behind it with a backing plate that you can hide (under the headliner?) after paint, then those holes are pretty easy to MIG shut, grind and fill.

That many holes will take a while to repair. Heat is not your friend.

So much anxiety. Behind that rot is the plate that the windshield mounts to and its nearly impossible to get a girder in there.

Plan A:
I was thinking of cutting about 1.5" up from the rot, corner to corner. I should be able to expose and clean up the mounting plate then. Then splice in a scarp with my MiG and hope I can prevent blow-out and warping. I'm not sure I'll need filler rod, the upper welds need to be presentable, the lower will get buried in body filler and sealant that goes in the gutters.

I've only stick welded out in the yards before and currently only have flux core, no tanks. Am I moron? This isn't a resto btw, this is our beach truck/fishing/truck/drop kids off at school in the warmer weather truck. It's never going to be perfect.

Thanks!!!

 

[mebco09]

Does someone make a patch panel for that area of the hardtop? If you are planning on making your own, it might be tough to match the curve.

If you have a MIG, use that.

Tops are cheap and plentiful. I have 3 that are currently off of trucks. Another alternative would be to find a better top.

 

[ssray]

So much anxiety. Behind that rot is the plate that the windshield mounts to and its nearly impossible to get a girder in there.

Plan A:
I was thinking of cutting about 1.5" up from the rot, corner to corner. I should be able to expose and clean up the mounting plate then. Then splice in a scarp with my MiG and hope I can prevent blow-out and warping. I'm not sure I'll need filler rod, the upper welds need to be presentable, the lower will get buried in body filler and sealant that goes in the gutters.

I've only stick welded out in the yards before and currently only have flux core, no tanks. Am I moron? This isn't a resto btw, this is our beach truck/fishing/truck/drop kids off at school in the warmer weather truck. It's never going to be perfect.

Thanks!!!

Your plan A seems like it might be the best. I“ve not used flux core Mig at all so I don’t know how it compares with gas. You can patch small holes and gaps by spotting in from the side and building sideways but you still need decent metal to build on. If the lower metal that is still there is paper thin it will burn away or the wire will just punch right through even at an angle no matter how you approach it. Only you can tell for sure but it looks like a lot of the lower area would be impossible to bridge. Go up an inch or two and it might be doable. Use cad (cardboard aided design) and make a template for shape and getting any curve in it should be doable by hand. Once you get it shaped you can mark the top and trim it to fit your new piece and start tacking it in.

BTW, that JB Weld IS good stuff. I just used it to fix the multifunction switch on my Rubicon. (Off topic) It has a plastic lever buried in there that wears down and then the fog lights come on and and stay on. A little JB, some filing and sanding and it’s good as new.

Scott

 

[thegreatjustino]

Tops are cheap and plentiful

This hasn't been the case in years. Even junk tops that once would have been cut up and thrown away sell for $300+

 

[thegreatjustino]

@Madgyver

Where's your repair thread where you fabbed the front channel for the half cab?

Those photos will probably help here.

 

[Wild horse 75]

I would definitely be cutting that out and welding in new metal. As far as flux core it will work just doesn’t leave very desirable results. MIG is way better, especially on thin sheet metal as the gas helps control the heat a tiny bit. At the end of the day wire thickness will be the biggest factor in not burning through.

 

[nj_thusar]

This hasn't been the case in years. Even junk tops that once would have been cut up and thrown away sell for $300+

I'm in NJ. There are no tops around for under 900$. My budget is zero, trying to do something that works and I can live with.

 

[Speedrdr]

As an aside, if you’re using flux core, get an aerosol can of metal spray (various manufacturers) and it will keep you from having to grind all the spatter off. Will update when I get to my shop.

Randy

 

[mebco09]

This hasn't been the case in years. Even junk tops that once would have been cut up and thrown away sell for $300+

I guess it depends on your definition of cheap.

Bodywork and paint used to be a lot cheaper too.

It's all relative. Spend $1500 on a rust free top, or $1500+ on body and paint.

 

[bigmuddy]

Honestly, if your on a budget and its a go get ice cream kind of truck. I would consider after exhausting other avenues, treating the rusty area with a good quality converter then backing from the inside and apply a metal type putty product to the outside. Sand smooth and move on with my life.
As long as the metal filler isn't very water absorptive I think once treated and painted it would last quite a long time.

 

[nj_thusar]

Honestly, if your on a budget and its a go get ice cream kind of truck. I would consider after exhausting other avenues, treating the rusty area with a good quality converter then backing from the inside and apply a metal type putty product to the outside. Sand smooth and move on with my life.
As long as the metal filler isn't very water absorptive I think once treated and painted it would last quite a long time.

I'm more and more feeling this is the way for a 9-5 IT guy. Thanks

 

[bigmuddy]

By the way I fond of the eastwood rust converter products. They cost more but they were a lot better than your standard, walmart, ace type products.

 

[mebco09]

This hasn't been the case in years. Even junk tops that once would have been cut up and thrown away sell for $300+

Here you go......

https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/d/puyallup-1969-ford-bronco-top/7723473687.html

You could resection your top with the front lip from this one if you wanted to get tricky. I know it is across the country.

 

[nj_thusar]

Here you go......

https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/d/puyallup-1969-ford-bronco-top/7723473687.html

You could resection your top with the front lip from this one if you wanted to get tricky. I know it is across the country.

There are a lot of things I want that at are 2800+ miles from me. Just not economical to flat rate from West, I looked into it.

 

[wsager]

Honestly, if your on a budget and its a go get ice cream kind of truck. I would consider after exhausting other avenues, treating the rusty area with a good quality converter then backing from the inside and apply a metal type putty product to the outside. Sand smooth and move on with my life.
As long as the metal filler isn't very water absorptive I think once treated and painted it would last quite a long time.

Could go this route and use a small amount of fiberglass and resin. I bet you could even use something like this to soak resin into. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Saint-Goba...x-250-ft-Mesh-Construction-Joint-Tape/4411371

 

[nj_thusar]

Had myself a fun time blowing through the sheet metal. So I left a few booger welds and went with a steel stick filler and seam sealer.
For a fishing tuck, I'm pleased. It's a sting hold and Raptor bed liner covers up any wonkiness pretty well.

Thanks all!