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Hard Top or Not?

Torkman66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2022
Messages
544
Just thought I would put up some info regarding the Bronco Hardtop. Maybe someone else that is starting their resto journey can garner some insights that will help them decide. I have always really liked how the Bronco looks with the white hard top. Pretty much settled on restoring the one that came on the Bronco rather than going with a soft top. Here are some things I have learned:

1. The tops are subject to rust as much as any other part on the truck. The front lip in particular is easily rusted out or rusted thin. I spent a lot of time cutting out and replacing rusted parts on the front edge.
2. I felt it was important to add additional support inside the top to strengthen the top and and keep it from tin canning so much.
3. I built a rolling frame for it to sit on either upside down or right side up so it would be easier to work on.
4. Had it sand blasted to bare metal then I painted it with two good coats of epoxy primer.
5. Lots of waves that have required a lot of high build and block sanding.
6. The gutters are another place where these things retain water and rust out. I filled all the gutters with epoxy resin and then used seam sealer everywhere two pieces of metal came together (top, sides, etc.).
7. I'm about to put on the final paint and will do it by first painting the inside then turning it over upright and painting the outside/top.
8. I'm planning on making my own headliner (we'll see how that goes...may end up buying one)
9. Getting all new glass. I have found that new glass really makes a stark difference to the final build.
10. The top then requires you to add door rubber and tailgate rubber, and top to qtr panel seals.
11. Will likely need to buy all new hardware for the liftgate. After blasting everything in a cabinet, they all seem pretty pitted.
12. Finally, these things are heavy (more so with added structure to roof) and it will be hoisted up onto a fresh new paint job and carefully lowered into place. Not to be removed again.
13. Will run wires for a dome light to center of roof.
14. I have the interior qrtr panel trim that goes up above the qrt panels so it can bend over the top of the top mounting bolts. That then requires a metal bar that goes the length of the top mounting area inside that you then attach the panel to. I plan on making those bars for each side.
15. Once installed, paint will be cut and buffed to match gloss of body.
Conclusion...tons of work and way more cost than I ever thought before starting. Given this is to be a show quality resto, every detail matters. I will have a total of $1800 just in materials. I will have spent probably 100 hours working on it. This does not include the cost of the original rusty top (mine came with the rig so no additional cost). While I'm hopeful it will be everything I hope when done, looking back I think a softop is what I would have done knowing what I know now. That would have cost less, had just a couple hours of work, and I could have lowered it down on nice days.

Hope this helps folks make a decision regarding their top choice.
 

bronco italiano

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
2,117
Body sheetmetal should never be sandblasted, it will warp it like crazy. Soda blasting is much easier on the metal.
I hardtop, if you have one is a great addition when the soft top gets a hole in it or is just weathered beyond repair.
Hard tops are like a pepsi can, but the bronco wasn't intended with modern day luxuries.
Save it and work on it little by little and I bet you will be happy when you have to use it.
I wish I would have kept my hard top.
 
OP
OP
Torkman66

Torkman66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2022
Messages
544
Understand the sand blast heat issue. Blasted tons of resto projects. Should have been more specific...I blasted it with the water and sand system. Keeps things cool. It makes a big mess so don't use that if there are a lot of nooks and crannies...hard to get the sand out after it has dried. But no warping.
 

Tricky Dick

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2023
Messages
477
6. The gutters are another place where these things retain water and rust out. I filled all the gutters with epoxy resin and then used seam sealer everywhere two pieces of metal came together (top, sides, etc.).
I'm surprised the gutters aren't open at the back to let water run out. I was thinking of changing that.

I haven't got to experience an EB with different tops yet, but having both hard and soft on my 6G I will say I far prefer the soft for day to day use, but the hard has much better utility. I intend to keep my EB hard top but I'm cooking up a plan to make it a pop top, Ursa Minor style.

Screenshot 2024-11-23 090110.jpg
 
Last edited:

1969

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Messages
711
I'm surprised the gutters aren't open at the back to let water run out. I was thinking of changing that.

I haven't got to experience an EB with different tops yet, but having both hard and soft on my 6G I will say I far prefer the soft for day to day use, but the hard has much better utility. I intend to keep mind my EB hard top but I'm cooking up a plan to make it a pop top, Ursa Minor style.

View attachment 935530

I’ve also thought about a pop top. Can’t wait to see what you come up with if you head down that road.
 

Tricky Dick

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2023
Messages
477
I’ve also thought about a pop top. Can’t wait to see what you come up with if you head down that road.
I found the tent material from the Chinese importers for about $150 delivered. The last piece of the puzzle is the lid, I'd like to have fiberglass but it will have to be custom.
 

Madgyver

Contributor
Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,859
do both. make it an option.
just like shoes. "what do I feel like wearing today?"

show quality? go with a hardtop.
to sell? or for you to drive and enjoy?
or just to trailer around to events to show off a hardtop Bronco?

Build it for it's purpose when done.
I like to drive it daily.
 
Last edited:

Hallboss

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2017
Messages
54
Loc.
PNW
Just thought I would put up some info regarding the Bronco Hardtop. Maybe someone else that is starting their resto journey can garner some insights that will help them decide. I have always really liked how the Bronco looks with the white hard top. Pretty much settled on restoring the one that came on the Bronco rather than going with a soft top. Here are some things I have learned:

1. The tops are subject to rust as much as any other part on the truck. The front lip in particular is easily rusted out or rusted thin. I spent a lot of time cutting out and replacing rusted parts on the front edge.
2. I felt it was important to add additional support inside the top to strengthen the top and and keep it from tin canning so much.
3. I built a rolling frame for it to sit on either upside down or right side up so it would be easier to work on.
4. Had it sand blasted to bare metal then I painted it with two good coats of epoxy primer.
5. Lots of waves that have required a lot of high build and block sanding.
6. The gutters are another place where these things retain water and rust out. I filled all the gutters with epoxy resin and then used seam sealer everywhere two pieces of metal came together (top, sides, etc.).
7. I'm about to put on the final paint and will do it by first painting the inside then turning it over upright and painting the outside/top.
8. I'm planning on making my own headliner (we'll see how that goes...may end up buying one)
9. Getting all new glass. I have found that new glass really makes a stark difference to the final build.
10. The top then requires you to add door rubber and tailgate rubber, and top to qtr panel seals.
11. Will likely need to buy all new hardware for the liftgate. After blasting everything in a cabinet, they all seem pretty pitted.
12. Finally, these things are heavy (more so with added structure to roof) and it will be hoisted up onto a fresh new paint job and carefully lowered into place. Not to be removed again.
13. Will run wires for a dome light to center of roof.
14. I have the interior qrtr panel trim that goes up above the qrt panels so it can bend over the top of the top mounting bolts. That then requires a metal bar that goes the length of the top mounting area inside that you then attach the panel to. I plan on making those bars for each side.
15. Once installed, paint will be cut and buffed to match gloss of body.
Conclusion...tons of work and way more cost than I ever thought before starting. Given this is to be a show quality resto, every detail matters. I will have a total of $1800 just in materials. I will have spent probably 100 hours working on it. This does not include the cost of the original rusty top (mine came with the rig so no additional cost). While I'm hopeful it will be everything I hope when done, looking back I think a softop is what I would have done knowing what I know now. That would have cost less, had just a couple hours of work, and I could have lowered it down on nice days.

Hope this helps folks make a decision regarding their top choice.
Great info! Thank you. I’m at this crossroad right now. Keep running with the soft top (Bestop) or go hardtop?? IMO hardtop looks so much better. I’ve researched the same cost/labor/issues with the fiberglass option as well.

PO purchased the Bestop and never installed. After installing I like the quality of it and in the PNW, it’s actually done great in the rain/snow. It is nice to just unbutton the back and slide the front out to go topless in the summer, with ease. I’ve noticed several of the high end builders are also selling with just the soft tops.
 

Soylent

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
May 4, 2016
Messages
425
Loc.
California
I like the look and utility of the soft top. Will probably keep the hard top for a while but have gone back and forth about just chucking it.
 

Speedrdr

Contributor
Not so wise OLD owl
Joined
Nov 27, 2017
Messages
1,523
Loc.
Paris, MS
I hate a wagon/full top enough that I’m rebuilding an old 1/2 cab that needs a bunch of fabrication work, plus drilling holes in the bed for the bulkhead mount, to make my ‘77 into a 1/2 cab. But I’m just wired (weird maybe ??) like that.

Randy
 

bronco italiano

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
2,117
What happened to the one you had stored about 20 feet off the floor on a rack in your storage unit? I was amazed that you managed to get it up there. I don't want to know what it took to get it down...
What a great memory you have!!!!! The guy I rent from has a fork lift, so I was cheating. LOL
I sold the top because I bought the BCB top and felt it was all I would need, if I keep my EB within eyesight in the public (which I do).
 

bronco italiano

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
2,117
I hate a wagon/full top enough that I’m rebuilding an old 1/2 cab that needs a bunch of fabrication work, plus drilling holes in the bed for the bulkhead mount, to make my ‘77 into a 1/2 cab. But I’m just wired (weird maybe ??) like that.

Randy
The half cab is awesome but I needed room for the kids since the Subaru Brat style may not be legal in CA anymore.
1732428580887.png
 

Soylent

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
May 4, 2016
Messages
425
Loc.
California
The half cab is awesome but I needed room for the kids since the Subaru Brat style may not be legal in CA anymore.
View attachment 935547
I remember seeing those at the dealer when they came out. Everyone was excited about the motocross grips on those seats and didn’t think twice about the possibility of being ejected from that bed. No seatbelts for those seats that I remember.
 

FordFarmer

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Messages
308
I quite like the hard top, I wouldn’t have bought a Bronco without one. But I also like the idea of open air cruising in the spring and fall. In 11 years I’ve never had the top off. Just never seem to find the time to sort it. I have been considering a Bronco Design top with the removable sides. Seems to me that would be the best of both worlds.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
I'm surprised the gutters aren't open at the back to let water run out. I was thinking of changing that.
Did that to the top on my '71. Drilled a hole in each corner. The front corners I tried to align the holes with the half-baked water channel in the windshield frame so that it would drip down and down.
I had intended to fabricate some kind of guide, or channel, to connect the holes in the top directly to the channels in the windshield frame, but never quite got around to that.

One problem I thought of, that never really materialized in my case, was the holes plugging up with debris that would have to be cleaned out now and then. Around here at least, that extra gunk never really materialized and I never had to re-open the holes.

Paul
 

Jakedog

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
834
I bought my first Bronco in 1990. I remember the first time I was headed down the highway with the windows down, and all of a sudden that hard top started flexing.
That thing scared the crap out of me.

I ended up replacing the old headliner which was really warped. It helped a lot.
One guy I met put a 60's or 70's ford station wagon luggage rack on his. It was a really clean look, and it went well with the bronco.

Of course there were guys that carpeted the inside of the top, which really quieted things down, but that look wasn't for me.

I loved the way the soft top looked, but damn!
I couldn't hold a conversation with myself let alone another person.
 
OP
OP
Torkman66

Torkman66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2022
Messages
544
Here are a few pics and update on progress.

After welding in all new metal wherever there was rust, I welded in a number of top supports to eliminate the tin canning and provide structure to the top.

IMG_7220.jpg


I filled the gutters with epoxy resin.
Made sure top was nice and level and then the epoxy is self leveling.
IMG_7229.jpg


I then put another coat of epoxy primer on it and used 3m seam sealer along all joints.

IMG_7248.jpg


Built a roll around cart and turned it upside down and added insulation and filled the channels with expanding foam insulation. The square plate in front will be used to mount a
dome light (needed something to screw into).

IMG_9122.JPG


Also just got started on the headliner. Trying to make something that is not cream color (parchment) and something not made out of cheap cardboard stock. Other issue is that to buy a headliner you pay near $100 just to ship it. So am trying to use the plastic sheeting that you can get at big box store. The center divider is also a stock piece for those panels as well as the inside 90 degree edges used on the side pieces. I will use the white screw caps to hide the screw tops and will be adding a small white top edge to the side pieces (white door edge guard). Still have a lot to finish it, but so far so good.

IMG_9124.JPG
IMG_9123.JPG


I'll then take it all apart and do the final paint, then install headliner, then install on truck. This thing is going to be about 100# heavier but much more beefy.
 

Zeke

Full Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2002
Messages
171
What's everyone's thoughts on the current hardtop replacement options? Specifically, the repro metal units verses the BroncoDesign fiberglass?

What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?

Pricewise they seem comparable.

I have seen some of the threads on the BroncoDesign fiberglass versions, but not many comments on the repro metal units.

Thanks,
Z
 
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OP
Torkman66

Torkman66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2022
Messages
544
Continued work on top. Making a custom headliner. Have all the foundation, dome lights, and padding complete. The top is firm everywhere up tight against roof structure. Only thing left is to wrap everything in headliner cloth.

IMG_9152.jpeg
IMG_9153.jpeg





IMG_9154.jpeg
 

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