• Just a reminder that you won't be able to start new posts or reply to existings posts in the Archive forum.

    This is where all the old posts go so they can still be used for reference and searched.
  • Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Hard Top Restoration

Joined
May 10, 2003
Messages
7
Loc.
Guam-Cali-WA
Just got back from a long trip and am looking at the seam on my hardtop, below the gutter. The rust is starting to look kinda flaky. Has anybody out there ever restored a top. I also have the same problem below the contour going down the side of the rig. I don't know how deep it goes just yet but will be finding out shortly.

So.. With this in mind where would you start. Sand paper or grinding wheel ;D
 

Bluntman

Full Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2003
Messages
497
Loc.
Memphis TN
I was planning on sandblasting mine, repainting it, adding a headliner, and adding weatherstip. New top! ;D
 

cw

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
117
I'd start with one of those 3m paint and rust remover wheels. $8.00 at OSH. Depending on how deep you have to go, Be careful with the grinder, it takes alot of metal off really fast!!!
 

stevew

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 21, 2001
Messages
2,121
Loc.
Elliston Montana
The only success I've had on that type of seam rust is by sand blasting . First dig out all the old seam sealer or the sand will just bounce off . Nothing else will get far enough back in the seam . Keep the sand close in the seam & warping won't be an issue . Primer / sealer the bare metal then get a tube of 3M heavy drip chek sealer & reseal all the joints .
 
OP
OP
Z
Joined
May 10, 2003
Messages
7
Loc.
Guam-Cali-WA
Thanks for the tips. I have heard some good things about Por-15. One thing that I am courious about is how well paint adhears to it? Is the stuff very paintable?

Has anyone out there undercoated their tubs with it. Is the hot exaust a problem. It seems like a lot of work but so is welding in new sheet metal. I'm looking into that little ounce of prevention thing..... well maybe a pound or 2 ;D
 
G

Guest

Guest
wasted time

Have rust repaired my top twice. Once in '82, and again in '90. It's in pretty tough shape now. Both times sand blasted all visable rust, then primed and painted. The mating, seam surfaces were never painted to begin with. So rust is consantly leaching out. Guess the only effective solution is sodium cyanide dip and flush with solvent. Then heavily reduce a self etching primer and let it gravity seap into all the seams. Finially, seam sealer and paint. Did use POR on parts of the top. It failed miserably.
 

dxeflyr

Full Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2003
Messages
368
Loc.
Ocala FL
I'd be careful of the dipping approach... had a friend do a frame-off on a TR-6 who dipped his body (or the car's, anyway ;D), painted it, and then finished the restoration. After a few months, the residual acid started seeping out of all the welded joints in the bodywork, ruining the paint job. He isn't the garden-variety yahoo, either, runs the best Euro repair place in town.
 
Top