Heat tube for automatic choke with headers?

[thegreatjustino]

I'm in the process of installing dual exhaust with WH shorty headers on my '73. I'm replacing stock manifolds that have the heat tube to the automatic choke on the carb. The headers have no provision for this heat tube. How do I get around this without converting to a manual choke carb?

 

[DirtDonk]

Which headers did you buy? Some of the kits come with a "choke stove" for the air-filter intake (1.5" tube with a welded brace across one end) and, I thought, some provision for the choke heat tube that you're talking about.

However, the larger piece is meant to be welded, so probably does not come with our Ceramic Coated versions.
If that's the case, then there is a part in the "HELP" section at the auto parts stores that has one that attaches to a header tube with clamps and comes with some new copper tubing.
I've forgotten the part number, but can get that for you if your local supplier doesn't stock them anymore.

Paul

 

[G's Baja Bronco]

will the carb take an electric choke? I did that to my Ramcharger carb. I liked it better than a manual choke, just press gas pedal once, start and hit it again in a few minutes.

 

[Rustytruck]

Take a piece of 1/4 " copper tube and run it from the choke witha ferrel fitting and runit around a couple of turns on a header tube. clamp this in place so it doesnt vibrate. insulate the tube with fiberglass tubing from the speed shop or mcmaster carr. the other end goes to filtered air from the aircleaner. Just like PAPA Ford did it just not as nice.

 

[thegreatjustino]

Which headers did you buy? Some of the kits come with a "choke stove" for the air-filter intake (1.5" tube with a welded brace across one end) and, I thought, some provision for the choke heat tube that you're talking about.

OK, so I have the "choke stove" that you mention - I have the titanium shorties.

This has the welded brace across and also came with a hose clamp. Where exactly does this get installed?

 

[DirtDonk]

You pick the most convenient header tube to line up under the air-cleaner's "snorkel" and clamp it on using the welded cross-brace as your clamping surface. Usually you'd use one of the front two tubes, but that's up to the individual layout. Different years placed the snorkel in slightly different locations.
Then you just attach the existing heat-riser hose that should be present between the intake snorkel and the stock manifold cover. You're only looking for hot air to rise up through the tube into the intake, so it does not have to be sealed or any fancy mounting procedure followed.

I misspoke before, about them being weld-on items. Forgot the cross-brace was for clamping purposes.

That's for the heat riser to the snorkel though. The kits don't come with a provision for the heat tube that hooks to the choke after all.
Most trucks have lost them, or the owners have removed them while doing different mods, but, since it sounds like you still have yours, you might be able to remove them from your stock manifolds and simply lay them on a header tube and clamp them in place.
Not sure how easy that will be though, as most every one I've ever seen was pretty rusted down at the manifold, and won't simply pull out anymore. If yours are stuck or deteriorated beyond use, the aftermarket "HELP" piece I mentioned before might be your only choice.

Paul

 

[red hot71]

The factory ford auto choke were the tube connects at the choke is under vacume,but at the begining of that tube it hooks up under the carb air cleaner base drawing filter air,so the circut uses filtered air for cleanness(no dirt)As rustytruck said you use 1/4 soft copper start at the carb with a rubber hose then 1/4 soft bending it to follow the header pipe at the bottom I used a 180* elbow that I soldered on to run a second pipe along side of the first one back up to were it splits off to the choke were it nut and ferrell,and use the insulation that tube get nice and hot.But to keep that auto choke working like it was suppose to it has to have filter air.