Help is there an adapter made for newer engines to accept the manual clutch assembly

[73Russell]

got a new engine for the bronco, the hole to bolt the clutch linkage to of the block is not there does someone make an adapter to address this issue?

 

[Matt@Wildhorses]

We have one we sell, #8197.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/EFI_Clutch_Equalizer_Conversion_Bracket/Early_Bronco_Clutch

Matt

 

[73Russell]

We have one we sell, #8197.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/EFI_Clutch_Equalizer_Conversion_Bracket/Early_Bronco_Clutch

Matt

Thank you got it ordered.

 

[Matt@Wildhorses]

No problem!

 

[Swerve]

Is there any reason why the later blocks without the hole can't just be drilled and tapped?

 

[DirtDonk]

Pretty sure that some of them can, while others are best left to the adapter.
But if yours has the obvious boss and looks healthy enough, I'd say drill and tap away.

You might wait for some confirmation from others though. While I've never had the problem, I thought I remembered hearing someone here say that there was an issue with certain blocks. Maybe an oil passage too close to the boss maybe?
Don't remember the specifics.

Paul

 

[Steve83]

I drilled & tapped the '95 4.9L that I put into my '83 with mechanical clutch. Later, I swapped to hydraulic because the mechanical linkage wears so rapidly, and is subject to body mounts failing causing the whole truck to hop.

So my point is: try to use hydraulic now.

 

[73Russell]

Actually there was not casting there to drill and tap

 

[DirtDonk]

Do you know what year your engine is Russell? And what it was out of originally?

Thanks

Paul

 

[KyleQ]

My 96 F4TE 351W didn't have anything to tap - the adapter worked excellent.

I never had a single issue with the linkage setup on my trail truck - I used an all original setup off a parts truck with junk bushings and felts. The second I had issue with it I was going to go hydraulic and be done with it - that never happened in 5+ years of running big tires, tall gears and probably thousands of clutch drops into gear.

 

[73Russell]

Do you know what year your engine is Russell? And what it was out of originally?

Thanks

Paul

I don't know what year the block is from. Crate engine from BluePrint. I did get an adapter from wildhorses to address the issue

 

[Swerve]

Pretty sure that some of them can, while others are best left to the adapter.
But if yours has the obvious boss and looks healthy enough, I'd say drill and tap away.

You might wait for some confirmation from others though. While I've never had the problem, I thought I remembered hearing someone here say that there was an issue with certain blocks. Maybe an oil passage too close to the boss maybe?
Don't remember the specifics.

Paul

Can anyone tell me if that is the water jacket area or is it oil passage in behind where you would drill and tap?

 

[Swerve]

Can anyone tell me if that is the water jacket area or is it oil passage in behind where you would drill and tap?

In my case I found out (the scary way) that the area behind where I drilled and tapped went into the flywheel / bell-housing area...

 

[Nothing Special]

Actually there was not casting there to drill and tap

X2. On my engine at least there was no casting to drill into. Not that you couldn't try to drill into the thin casting wall and hope it worked out, but it's clear that Ford didn't intend anything to be mounted there.

Here's a blurry pic of the simple homemade bracket I made to take care of it. where the bolt head is is where the casting would be.

 

[thirdtime]

I took the risk about 4 years ago and just drilled and tapped it without the boss. 94 351. It was a junk yard motor so I wasn't to concerned. I'm sure its not the factory approved method but it has not given me any issues. Just had to figure the bolt length prior to assembly as noted previously because it could cause problems if to long.