Help me fry my alternator

[bronko69er]

So I have had stock alternators (lifetime warranty ones from my local parts house) on my bronco since I bought it in '99. They have been adequate for my needs until I intalled EFI and a winch. I'm not overly impressed by the alts, usually get me about 2 years before they die. But that is propbably partly due to me over taxing them. I guess the only reason I contine to get them is that they are free, I can get them almost anywhere and they are quick to replace. I can't justify $200+ for a good 3g (from a vendor) that I can't just run into the nearest parts house and get a free replacement for when it goes out.

So here's what I want to do: I've had my current alt for over a year now, which probably means it will be dying soon, but i'd like for it to die on my time, not when IT feels like it.

I've already spoken to the parts house and they will trade me up to a 3G when mine dies.

So the question is: How do I kill it (safely, so as not to damage anything in the bronco) so I can take it in and get it warrantied and credit that toward a 3G?

 

[74BroncoCO]

That's a wierd situation, but I can't really think of anything other than starting your rig, disconnecting the battery and turning on all electrical devices. That'll put a load on the alt and it probably won't die when you want it to.

J.D.

 

[Gator809]

Next time it goes out, get them to warranty it out for a large case 1G alternator. Look one up for a 78 full size ford car with a big block and all the power options. It will fit in the stock brackets, but will require a new wiring plug to connect to the stock harness. I would also get a new voltage regulator at the same time. It is more then likely the same one you have, but is good practise to replace them as a pair.

The large case 1G is a 100 Amp alternator. But due to it's large case, it's internals are oversized for 100 amps and are overbuilt in almost every way.

And if you want to get REALLY crazy, look for a mid 80's to 90's Ford 1 ton ambulance E 350 or F 350, Big block gas or diesel. Some use the newer 3G, but some come with a 200 Amp version of the Large case 1G, and it bolts right in. But be warned, it will be around $200 for the alternator, and about $125 for the special voltage regulator it requires.

Later

Hank

 

[Viperwolf1]

I bet if the ground to your battery came loose when you were winching the alt would not last long. Might be bad for the alt output wiring though.

 

[bronko69er]

I bet if the ground to your battery came loose when you were winching the alt would not last long. Might be bad for the alt output wiring though.

I've already had issues with the stock harness output wire, so I have bypassed it with a short lead directly to the battery. If I fry that wire, I wont care.

Wouldnt that require the engine to be running? Not sure my EFI would like that if I take the battery ground off ;D

I've heard mension of turning on all possible accesories and gounding the field lead, but I'm a bit reluctant to try this.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Yep engine would have to be running and it may not be good for EFI. Groundeing the field lead would probably kill your regulator. The other end of the field coil is already grounded so it wouldn't hurt it any.

If you took the alt out to "bench test" it and "accidently" hooked up a battery backwards (case to pos and neg to output) it may blow the diodes. I'd want to sandbag around the battery too, just in case.

Or you could always pull it apart and break one of the brush wires off.

 

[bronko69er]

So I may have to take it apart for some internal sabotage.....
I bet RRRAAAYYY would know how to fry it.

 

[bronko69er]

What about this?
I unplug the main hanress from that alt an allow the motor to run on the battery. While doing this I use my 4ga jumper cables to arc weld something, attaching them to the main charge post and the case of the alt.

But what would I need to do to make it go full output?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Stelth way
Remove the big output wire as to not fry the truck
start it up and let it run a while.
Without a load you might be able to overvoltage the diodes and pop them. If you can remove the field wire as well and put 30 or 40 volts in there while it is running, that out to over voltage it.

After that, plan B. overload the alternator and try and let the smoke out, be careful not to go too far and let the fire out as well.

Or for the dangerous way, remove the belt, find an adaptor for a router that fits the hex drive, see what happens when the rotor hits 20-30,000 RPM

 

[HoosierDaddy]

My buddies bronco , the one that gave me this addiction , would fry the alternator every time we went to the dunes , where the motor would see a few pulls over 6000 rpm.
Saw it happen after just one good 6k+ spin on the street once. Nothing catastrophic , they just quit charging.

 

[bronko69er]

Stelth way
Remove the big output wire as to not fry the truck
start it up and let it run a while.
Without a load you might be able to overvoltage the diodes and pop them. If you can remove the field wire as well and put 30 or 40 volts in there while it is running, that out to over voltage it.

After that, plan B. overload the alternator and try and let the smoke out, be careful not to go too far and let the fire out as well.

Or for the dangerous way, remove the belt, find an adaptor for a router that fits the hex drive, see what happens when the rotor hits 20-30,000 RPM

So If I connect my 4 gauge jumper cables in series through the field post with the ground clamp of my mig, pull the trigger, do you think that will do it? can't think of another way to get 30-40 volts....