Help with wiring the Mean-Green Starter!

[MnkyBiz]

All & this is focused at RRAAAAYYY also!!!!

Ok, I have a Mean-Green starter. I can't figure out how to electrically separate the starter from the starter solenoid!

There are only two wires external to the two units!

Here is the first, that I refer to as the "jumper", though I am not sure if it is the jumper or not!

The other wire is a 1/0 bundle on the other side, that comes directly from the top portion (I think that is the Solenoid) to the bottom. It is hard wired into the top & the bottom has a nut, but both are covered with a rubber boot.

Now back to the photo that I have shown! If this is in fact the jumper between the starter & Solenoid, I can disconnect it, connect the "+" of the battery & the alternator to the nut, and connect my 8 gauge wire to to a Female quick connector & then connect the other end of the 8 gauge wire to my Solenoid on the fenderwell.

If this isn't the jumper wire, then I haven't a clue as to how I can FREAKING separate these two units!~

Anyone....hheeeellllppppp!!!!

Mean Green has NO SERVICE TO SPEAK OF! YOU CALL & GO TO AN ANSWERING MACHINE THAT MUST NEVER GET LISTENED TO! HORRIBLE TECH SUPPORT!!!!!

MnkyBiz

 

[iwlbcnu]

There should be a spade or small wire connection and a large wire connection. The large wire goes straight to the Batt side of your factory starter solinoid, (opposite side it is now). Then run a new small wire from the starter side of the solinoid to the spade on the starter.
Bring it tomorrow and i will look at it. (if the wife lets me come %) )

 

[MnkyBiz]

I can't come. Wife has declared that since tomorrow will be 6-8" of snow, that it is a good day to reorganize the home & build the NURSERY! Oh the woes of a husband whose wife is pregnant!

Harumph!

 

[RRRAAAYYY2]

Monkey,
Have you got your wiring kit yet? It should have diagrams in it. Sorry about sending the 10ga wire with an eyelet on it, instead of the spade terminal. I was under the impression you had the mg pmgr starter, not the Denso knockoff.
The jumper in the picture is the one you want to remove. Here is a quick diagram of the before and after. Give me a call in the morning if you need more help. I tried posting earlier and it didn't work out well for me.

 

[raharr3]

I feel you pain. I have the same starter and would realy like some pics of your wirring job after you get done MONKEY!
Thanks,

Roy H.

 

[SnwMnkys]

Wait why do you need to wire it this way? I have a High Torque starter similiar to the mean grean but i just ran it the conventional way, and then a 8 gauge jumper wire between the 2 contacts on the starter.

 

[iwlbcnu]

Don't worry, I decided to stay home too. Daughter has the sniffles, so feel guilty dragging her out.

If you wire using the factory solinoid too, alot of times the starter won't disengage.

Sounds like the mean green is diff from what I'm used too.

 

[RRRAAAYYY2]

Wait why do you need to wire it this way? I have a High Torque starter similiar to the mean grean but i just ran it the conventional way, and then a 8 gauge jumper wire between the 2 contacts on the starter.

I had always thought this was an acceptable way of wiring the starter, with the jumper in place. As this is what a great number of drag racers do. However about 6 months ago we were looking for a new work truck/show vehicle/ strip vehicle for our shop.

I found an older van that looked like it might work. It needed a new starter, the mechanic that owned it wasn't too bright. So I busily updated the starter to a pmgr with the jumper wire. My step father happened to see the starter before it left the shop and tore a strip off my back.

He expalined that it would leave the drive engaged for a fraction of a second longer doing it that way. Which meant instead of the pinion seeing 10000rpm, it might see as high as 35000rpm. He was really mad that I would do such a stupid thing. I thought he was full of it, and sent the starter down to the guy anyway.

I went by later that night to pick up the van to take it for a safety. Startered it up, and wouldn't you know it, I could tell the starter pinion was being over spun. The mechanic thought I was now full of it. But my stepfather was right, and I was wrong.

I guess this is why he does tech seminars and writes tech articles for other rebuilders, manufacturers, and oe suppliers, and not me. LOL. If anyone ever gets a chance to come to our shop, my stepfathers and my relationship is almost identical to that of Paul Jr. & Sr. of Orange County Choppers. So much so that it was even included in an article on my bike. In the end I lost the arguement about the jumper wire, proving myself wrong (still haven't told my stepfather though), the van turned out to be a piece of crap, so it was a real learning experience that day.

 

[RRRAAAYYY2]

Don't worry, I decided to stay home too. Daughter has the sniffles, so feel guilty dragging her out.

If you wire using the factory solinoid too, alot of times the starter won't disengage.

Sounds like the mean green is diff from what I'm used too.

Hope your daughter feels better, it is a real bummer seeing kids sick.

If the factory solenoid is sticking, it needs to be replaced. Ford guys are the most guilty of all when it comes to this. Every amp of current that goes through the old direct drive starters, has to first go through the solenoid. So when the starter wears out and fails, 99% ot the time the solenoid is in no better condition. It will still click, it will still pass power, but the voltage drop is terrible through it. But nobody changes them. Thinking that since it is passing power it is fine. Reality is 600amps at 14.7 goes in, but only 600amps at 12.2 comes out. (Just an example). So the starter sees two less or more even, volts, so it works much harder and wears out faster than before. Then the owner gets mad at the starter, thinkng it was jsut a piece of junk and he got ripped off. But all the while it was the solenoid he failed to replace.

Also using products not made in Canada and US, and a few other select countires, is not wise. Quality is quality, it doesn't come cheap, never has and never will. Buying electric parts that are made in Mexico, China, China, China, or Taiwan, you get what you paid for. Another way of saying it is, if you buy Hyundia, don't expect to drive a Rolls Royce off the lot.

Not saying there are not crappy starters, crappy manufacturers in the market place. But the consumer has to take some of the blame some of the time. Mechanics are just as guilty as owners though. Attributal to the lack of education, or just lack of knowledge on how electrical devices work.

I have been doing this since I was a 11, and my last post above just demonstrates I am still learning things.

 

[MnkyBiz]

Ray,

If all goes well, and I get enough of this refinishing of the upstairs done, I'll be down Bronco-ing it tomorrow! I'll photo & let you know how it goes!

I did get the kit. I am slightly worried about getting the "-" to the block, that is a little short. Not entirely sure, though. I'll test tomorrow!

Thanks!

Bill

 

[RRRAAAYYY2]

Bill,
Let me know how it goes. The "-" should have had a couple of inches to spare. But if it needs to be longer I can send you a new one.

 

[MnkyBiz]

Ray,

No progress today.

I am feeling under the weather. Didn't go to the garage.

I'll hit it soon, though.

Bill