Help needed wiring up reworked Explorer harness into the stock wiring harness. Thank you

[fordguy]

Brake switch is open, closes when pressed and allows signal to pcm.

 

[SpecialFred]

Brake switch is open, closes when pressed and allows signal to pcm.

Let me start by acknowledging I am an idiot. Is it normal for there to be some current in this wire before the switch closes?
Thank you for your help!

 

[fordguy]

Let me start by acknowledging I am an idiot. Is it normal for there to be some current in this wire before the switch closes?
Thank you for

So it has 12 volts coming from the power side, brakes pressed switch just allows the voltage thru to signal ecm aka hot when pressed.

 

[SpecialFred]

Tracking. Seems to be working fine now. Thanks again!

 

[Bruners4]

Thank you for the response. I have the coolant temp and oil pressure sensors installed and wired up to the explorer harness now. Trying to figure out the 4G alternator wiring now. Did you have to do anything to your EFI guy reworked harness as far as the alternator is concerned, other than add the 6gauge wire from the alternator to the B+ terminal on the solenoid, with a 175amp fuse? What did you do with the ammeter wiring...did you happen to replace it with a voltmeter? Thank you. Mel

Sorry for replying late. I did replace my ammeter with a voltmeter. I'm also assisting gnsteam with his Explorer conversion wiring who is doing the same. Voltmeter is very simple. one side is battery negative or ground and the other side is battery positive from key switch run or accessory depending on if you want a voltage reading with the key in the ACC position. I don't have the wire numbers or colors in front of me but the ammeter wiring also has to be addressed. The ammeter was in series and when it is removed it opens the circuit and interrupts the power to everything in that circuit. Gnsteam's build thread has more details. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239642&highlight=Project:+Orange+Special+Decor We get together Thursday evenings, and I can get more detailed information next week.

 

[DirtDonk]

I’m sure it’s covered in that other thread, but you can keep the stock wiring intact after removing the ammeter by simply reconnecting that plug/connector.
As long as the two halves of the wire are connected to each other, everything works as before.
And they don’t have to be connected through the ammeter to work. So just hook up the voltmeter as just described, connect the Black wire back together, and everything should work perfectly.