Horn Button Issues

[jeremywatco]

Please watch this video and tell me what is happening with my horn button. Is the post broken? Is there a better way to wireup the horn and can I get rid of the springs?

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AsxoWlsOdZGbicZNLnAbJrRhDLBsZg

 

[langester]

If you haven't tried it already,it might help to put a small amount of dielectric grease on the ends of the spring contacts so it will ride smooth.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep. Make sure they're smooth and if not, file them smooth. Then apply grease as well.

Is that gap normal? Or did you pull it up for video purposes? If it's normal, it's not correct and should be further in. That might also compress the springs further and get a better contact.

But first, remove the wheel adapter and make sure that the buttons are not making contact where there is a solder blob, or a seam in the copper, or some damage that is causing it to catch.

Good luck eliminating the horn contacts. I'm not sure how a modern steering wheel does it, but it may very well be similar to what's in use today.
I'm sure it could be done if you're really clever, but not sure what form that would take.

And if your rig does not have a horn relay, you should install one. It takes the electrical load off of the horn contact(s) and puts it on the more robust relay contacts.
Make your work last longer that way.

Paul

 

[jeremywatco]

Thanks I'll check it out.

I keep setting the gap and over time it works its way back. Not sure why it keeps slipping.

I keep blowing horn fuses too. Something isnt right

 

[jckkys]

The photo seems to show a copper contact ring on the back of the wheel center. I know the Grant wheels have the thin copper contact surface and it wears through near the straight ahead position. So I had to turn the wheel to get the horn to blow. To fix was a 1/16" thick copper ring that didn't wear through like the copper foil Grant used.

 

[sprdv1]

Thanks I'll check it out.

I keep setting the gap and over time it works its way back. Not sure why it keeps slipping.

I keep blowing horn fuses too. Something isnt right

always something w/these rigs.. good luck

 

[jeremywatco]

So i pulled the wheel and this is what that back of the wheel adapter looks like. No wonder I keep blowing fuses. Its shorting out where there is no more contact material.. How would I even fix this? Do I have to buy a whole new adapter? This adapter is only a few months old. Its like the spring loaded contacts rubbed all the copper material off.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yowza! Yep, found the issue. Or at least the end result, because something else looks to be causing the excessive wear to start with.

Is the spring loaded contact's tip rough or smooth? If it's rough it might accelerate the wear, but more likely to me it looks like the "skipping" effect is doing the damage. Wobbling and chipping away at the already very thin trace by slapping it against it's edge.
Notice how the normal wear line is just outside of the actual damaged area. That seems like it might be due to the contact flopping around. Assuming it's the inner one that is.

I keep setting the gap and over time it works its way back. Not sure why it keeps slipping.

Looks like you are going to have to find out what is letting the column come loose internally and let it work it's way up like that. No way that's normal, and may very well be what let's the skipping start.
Can't be the adapter itself, or the steering wheel would be in danger of coming off! But even if it's the shaft, that's a danger too, depending on what type of retention is at either end.

Is the adapter one from us? Or another source? What brand?
Even though they normally show minimal wear after years of use, it might not hurt to call anyway, just to make sure that thin of a trace is correct.
Although, judging by jckkys' comments in post #5, I guess thin material is normal for this type of item. Got any pics of where you got the copper ring jckkys? Or did you make your own?

Paul

 

[gick70]

I had the same repair about 2 months ago! Can u say China junk!

 

[jeremywatco]

Yowza! Yep, found the issue. Or at least the end result, because something else looks to be causing the excessive wear to start with.

Is the spring loaded contact's tip rough or smooth? If it's rough it might accelerate the wear, but more likely to me it looks like the "skipping" effect is doing the damage. Wobbling and chipping away at the already very thin trace by slapping it against it's edge.
Notice how the normal wear line is just outside of the actual damaged area. That seems like it might be due to the contact flopping around. Assuming it's the inner one that is.



Looks like you are going to have to find out what is letting the column come loose internally and let it work it's way up like that. No way that's normal, and may very well be what let's the skipping start.
Can't be the adapter itself, or the steering wheel would be in danger of coming off! But even if it's the shaft, that's a danger too, depending on what type of retention is at either end.

Is the adapter one from us? Or another source? What brand?
Even though they normally show minimal wear after years of use, it might not hurt to call anyway, just to make sure that thin of a trace is correct.
Although, judging by jckkys' comments in post #5, I guess thin material is normal for this type of item. Got any pics of where you got the copper ring jckkys? Or did you make your own?

Paul

The adapter, wheel, turn signal all were from wildhorses.

That one spring contact definitly has play. The outside one doesn't budge, the inside one wiggles all around. Perhaps it was a fault turn indicator and that totally screwed up the adapter contact plate...

Either way i'm sort of at a loss on how to repair the contact plate. Its just glued down but not sure where to get another one. I dont want to get a whole new adapter just for the contact plate.

 

[jckkys]

As I said I just bought a 0.025" not 1/16" thick sheet of copper from Ace. They're 10"X4" and plenty thick to last a life time. Cutting the rings is the hardest part. After that a dab of solder closes the circuit. The contacts seem to work best flat and smooth. The dielectric grease helps too. The inside contact may have egged out the hole. They should move in and out of the hole freely but stay perpendicular to the copper rings.

 

[jeremywatco]

As I said I just bought a 0.025" not 1/16" thick sheet of copper from Ace. They're 10"X4" and plenty thick to last a life time. Cutting the rings is the hardest part. After that a dab of solder closes the circuit. The contacts seem to work best flat and smooth. The dielectric grease helps too. The inside contact may have egged out the hole. They should move in and out of the hole freely but stay perpendicular to the copper rings.

Did you leave the existing ring and just glue to it, or did you remove and attach your copper plate.

 

[67RT]

I wired mine to the windshield washer button! I know, ghetto..

 

[jckkys]

I just put the new copper ring over the existing copper foil. Mine's a '77 so there's only one ring and contact, because it uses a relay.