Horn Wiring Issue (74 Auto Column Grant Adapter)

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and just as we did in Viper's "P's and Q's" thread, what is the letter in the 6th VIN position. Again, just for the record.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[JefeAZ]

Oh, and just as we did in Viper's "P's and Q's" thread, what is the letter in the 6th VIN position. Again, just for the record.

Thanks!

Paul

6th digit is a T. What does that tell you?

Tackling the wheel issues tomorrow. Fingers crossed I can figure out. Otherwise Im headed to the car show without a horn!

 

[jckkys]

I wasn't trying to sell parts. I thought an assembled nearly identical column with the Grant adapter would help you see where yours is different causing your present problem.

 

[DirtDonk]

6th digit is a T. What does that tell you?

Nothing yet. You're the first data-point, so we'll just have to see what else shows up in the future with '73/'74 EB's

Thanks

Paul

 

[JefeAZ]

Well my initial hunch was correct! I tightened down the center nut too much which over-compressed the horn contacts and sent one of the springs out the backside. You can see the upper horn contact spring has come out and is touching the indicator bulb circuit board. This is why the LEDs were coming on

I started taking it apart piece by piece to see if I could narrow down the issue. I got all the way to the Grant adapter and the issue came back up as soon as the adapter separated from the horn contacts. I noticed the lower contact was nice and firm and the upper one was soft. Had I checked that or even looked at the contacts from the side I would have seen this haha:

The wire/brass plate that holds the spring in the horn contact had come loose so I bent it back into position and it snapped back in. Tighten the center nut down to 20-25ft lbs or until its tight enough that it wont separate and your horn contacts are compressed but still have some throw left

 

[JefeAZ]

Almost forgot, after fixing that issue and out of curiosity I decided to take the 3285 Grant adapter back off and try the 3294 adapter. 1 black wire from the adapter to the horn, 1 wire from the spacer bolt to the horn, and the extra adapter wire just hanging out the horn worked! So it appears I could have used either Grant adapter

Thanks for the help fellas!

 

[DirtDonk]

Nice detective work! I wonder if the shaft is worn (looks a be ragged) to the point that the wheel is pushing down too far when you torque the nut.
You should be able to put it down to factory torque, whatever that is, without it compressing the switch contacts.

Or is 25lbs the factory rating?
Either way, thanks for the follow up.

Paul

 

[JefeAZ]

Nice detective work! I wonder if the shaft is worn (looks a be ragged) to the point that the wheel is pushing down too far when you torque the nut.
You should be able to put it down to factory torque, whatever that is, without it compressing the switch contacts.

Or is 25lbs the factory rating?
Either way, thanks for the follow up.

Paul

I dont know what the factory recommendation is but I was really torquing that nut down with a 1/2" ratchet. At 25ft lbs everything is nice and tight. I bet I was doing 60-80ft lbs. Not good and luckily was able to fix the minor damage it caused

 

[Rox Crusher]

Well my initial hunch was correct! I tightened down the center nut too much which over-compressed the horn contacts and sent one of the springs out the backside. You can see the upper horn contact spring has come out and is touching the indicator bulb circuit board. This is why the LEDs were coming on

I started taking it apart piece by piece to see if I could narrow down the issue. I got all the way to the Grant adapter and the issue came back up as soon as the adapter separated from the horn contacts. I noticed the lower contact was nice and firm and the upper one was soft. Had I checked that or even looked at the contacts from the side I would have seen this haha:

The wire/brass plate that holds the spring in the horn contact had come loose so I bent it back into position and it snapped back in. Tighten the center nut down to 20-25ft lbs or until its tight enough that it wont separate and your horn contacts are compressed but still have some throw left

Hello Jefe - I'm having exact same problem. In my case, seems my slip ring hits contactor housing before the hub is seated on shaft. Did you happen to take any pics of how much of the horn contactor was protruding when it was properly torqued? Not sure you can even get a pic?