Bringing this back to the top to see if you cut it. What WH sent me is about 1 1/2” too long compressed. Seems like there should be some room for compression. I’m running a 4x4x2 box and had to cut the stock manual shaft and add a joint to shorten it to fit.
Glad you brought it back up. Always good to revisit this kind of thing.
Sorry yours was too long too, but you are correct that you want as much collapsability as you can get safely, while still allowing for frame flex and other lifestyle oddities.
Thanks for the replies. I should have noted in my original post that this is a custom shaft built by WH.
Sorry again that yours was too long as well. Seems like the 4x4x2 box can be mounted in so many ways, that perhaps that's at least one of the issues here. In our gearbox swap kits we recommended a position that puts the boxes quite a bit forward. Notching the front body mount gusset is necessary for that position. Perhaps this is what's creating this too-long scenario for you both.
I'd be interested to see how both you and Chief Master Sergeant have your boxes mounted.
Perhaps it's not enough of a difference in location to be the issue, but it's worth visiting for this discussion for sure.
I also thought about cutting it down but I don't know that I should because it has a machined notch in the inner shaft that has a spring of sorts to dampen vibrations.
Seems like the expedient thing here, is to look at three points on the shafts for shortening.
1. Making sure the stock shaft is not being left too long. If there is room to shorten it, that would be my first go.
2. Cutting the larger (female) 1" DD shaft shorter. Preferably at the top end, under the yoke/u-joint. Although the lower end remains protected under the boot, so there is that.
Cutting it shorter at the lower end would make it so that you don't have to re-dimple or drill anything, but you definitely don't want to cut too much.
3. Cutting the lower 3/4" DD shaft. This could be done at either end, but due to the notch for the spring, my first choice would be the lower end at the box.
Cutting the upper end ensures that a cut end where the zinc has been compromised stays greased and out of the weather. But paint can pretty much do the same thing.
Cutting the lower end at the joint would be simple, and dimpling really is not that big a deal with careful marking and a good drill bit.
I can't say for sure on each one of your applications, but it seems like one or more of those places would be able to net you the desired shortening factor.
And as mentioned already, a quick spritz of some good paint will go a long way to a good night's sleep. Rustoleum Rust Converting Primer has always worked wonders in my experience. Very durable.
Paul
