Hi Paul, I have never seen it higher than 13.1 it was always lower than that until I got the overdrive crank pulley as well. Since it is spinning faster now is the only reason I am getting more.
Ok, so at least we know to look for just about anything for now.
I didn’t realize it was a 3g alternator. Sorry for the confusion.
No problem. Maybe I should have known already, since we've talked about your Bronco for a long time now. Might even have discussed the alternator before!
So possibly the wire isn’t heavy gauge enough?
It might not be, but it's not the reason for the lack of charging. Even the lesser wire would show 14v when the alt is running, but if too small would simply melt (not good!) if the alternator was being called upon to put out more current.
So my guess is that it's still some other issue.
Although, at some point it would not hurt to use a larger gauge wire and add fuse protection.
At this point though, if those are two twisted 10ga wires, they're sufficient for most cases. The real issue with a twisted-pair of smaller gauge wires though, is that if the connection is ever compromised for one, the second one will likely melt pretty quickly, and could cause a fire.
Which is why one larger one is often the better method. And it's what Ford does. Except for the fusible links mentioned.
More on that in a bit...
And I should test each wire output with my multimeter? Sorry, electric confuses me more than anything.
As it does most of us. Until the light bulb goes off in our head in a nice eureka moment.
Yes, test each wire. You can pull the 3-wire connector off of the back of the alternator (it's actually the voltage regulator bolted to the alternator, just so you know) and use your meter's test probes to verify full battery voltage at the Yellow wire at all times. Then turn the ignition switch to ON and test for voltage at the Green w/red wire. Should be near enough battery voltage to make no nevermind.
Don't worry about voltage at the White w/black wire at this time, but do check for resistance with your OHMS setting on the multi-meter. Let us know what you find, or if you need help with the whole resistance thing.
I’m not sure what a factory fusible link is btw.
A fusible link takes a couple of different forms, but it's basically an alternative to a fuse as a way to protect the wires. In this case the larger-than-average charge wire.
I'm not sure all the reasons a designer chooses a fusible link vs a fuse or circuit breaker (cost maybe?) but there could be a certain performance characteristic they like better for a charging circuit.
Basically, as it kind of sounds, the "fusible link" will melt first, before any damage is done to the majority of the circuit. It can be as simple as a much smaller gauge section of wire (as it is with stock Bronco harnesses), to a short section of a pair of smaller wires, like Ford does with some later model vehicles that use the large battery cable sized charge wire like in the WH link I posted yesterday.
But the function is the same. It's a sacrificial bit of wire that can (semi) easily be replaced. But that's why I prefer a fuse. Much easier to carry a spare and change it in the field without much in the way of tools or specialized knowledge.
For an off-road vehicle then, a Mega-Fuse or it's equivalent has some advantages.
Again I apologize, I’m trying to learn everything and know the terminology, but electrical is my worst enemy.
Hey, that's why you're here, right?
;D
I’m just shocked my Battery hasn’t died yet I definitely do not have a fuse and the wiring is a much smaller gauge.
The fact that you see 13.1v at all means that the alternator is trying to charge at least a little. By putting out enough current to charge the battery while running, it's just keeping up with the light load. Once you turn a bunch of things on though, and watch the voltage drop, that's when you would see a drain on the battery.
So if you were driving it for a couple of hours with the lights and heater one, you likely would get stranded.
Definitely do some of the checking, and definitely add a dedicated heavy gauge ground wire to the alternator case. If for no other reason than to rule out completely any lack of grounding it is getting from the engine block and ground cable to the battery. If the connection is not clean (paint and rust?) then it's not grounded sufficiently.
Paul
