Hydra boost identification

[hunter1]

I purchased what I believe to be a mustang hydro boost. Is there any way to tell from a casting number or any other forms of identification to verify this? I would like to re-seal it before installing it and would like to know for sure before ordering anything.

 

[jmhend]

I purchased what I believe to be a mustang hydro boost. Is there any way to tell from a casting number or any other forms of identification to verify this? I would like to re-seal it before installing it and would like to know for sure before ordering anything.

Can younpost a picture of what you purchased?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[hunter1]

Here are a few pics. Let me know what you think.
Thanks

 

[badmuttstang]

That does look like a 99-04 mustang/cobra hydroboost

 

[toddz69]

It's always hard to identify these units but I'd say it's not a Mustang unit. I think all the Mustang units I've seen have black accumulators, much shorter pushrods, and some sort of additional fittings/block attached to the unit that others don't have.

Based on the color of that accumulator, I'd say that it's probably a unit used on a GM vehicle, but that's just a guess.

Most all of those units are pretty similar from a seals standpoint so it's hard to go wrong with your order.

Todd Z.

 

[SC74]

Hard to tell in the pic, but in a Mustang there are three studs that go through the fire wall and nuts are under the dash. The bottom left in the Mustang has a stud that comes from inside to outside and a nut on the outside of the firewall. If all 4 of those studs are going towards the inside, I'd say it's not a Mustang.

 

[catfan]

It's always hard to identify these units but I'd say it's not a Mustang unit. I think all the Mustang units I've seen have black accumulators, much shorter pushrods, and some sort of additional fittings/block attached to the unit that others don't have.

Based on the color of that accumulator, I'd say that it's probably a unit used on a GM vehicle, but that's just a guess.

Most all of those units are pretty similar from a seals standpoint so it's hard to go wrong with your order.

Todd Z.

I agree with you Todd, the mustang pushrod is around 4 1/2" from the backing plate to the center of the push rod. The mounting plate on the mustang is angled with smaller bolts.

 

[hankjr]

https://piratejack.net/blog/hydroboost-repair-how-to-fix-your-leaking-hydro-boost-step-by-step/

 

[jmhend]

https://piratejack.net/blog/hydroboost-repair-how-to-fix-your-leaking-hydro-boost-step-by-step/

Hank,

Great link. A no Brainer if its out rebuild it now. The price seems reasonable as well.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[hankjr]

I rebuilt mine. It was quite simple except for the input seal change. The directions that came with the kit were good.

Hank

 

[hunter1]

Thanks for the link. I'll definitely be using it.

 

[Rustytruck]

measure the bolt spacing for the master cylinder GM pattern and Fords patterns are different.

 

[toddz69]

measure the bolt spacing for the master cylinder GM pattern and Fords patterns are different.

Good suggestion! Totally forgot to suggest that. Fords/Dodges are ~3.2" between centers on the mounting bolts and GMs are ~3.4".

Todd Z.

 

[EPB72]

I agree with you Todd, the mustang pushrod is around 4 1/2" from the backing plate to the center of the push rod. The mounting plate on the mustang is angled with smaller bolts.

Also the mustang master cylinder has the studs in it;s flange ,not the booster as in the OP pic's...

to replace the input seal the push rod will need to be removed and a seal install tool will be needed or you can make up your own ,,
You can also cut the push rod end off and thread the rod to make it adjustable with a threaded sleeve and eyelet for the ford brake pedal depending on how you plan on setting it up..

 

[bigmuddy]

Looks a lot like my hydroboost from the astrovan. I noticed that most all the remanned units available for sale look to have painted accumulators.