If you could not afford ARB front and rear..

[brian72]

If you could not afford ARBs front and rear what would you buy? Not looking for the full spectrum of what is available...what is 2nd best?

I will be installing 4.11 gears and upgrading the rear axles to 31 spline.

thanks
brian

 

[evil69]

Just do the front ARB and leave the rear open. The front digging both tires works way better in some rocks for sure. You could weld the rear up since you would be replacing the carrier later.

 

[evil69]

And if no ARB, then go cheap and use an Aussie.

 

[broncnaz]

Id say a detroit locker is probably the best for the rear with a OX locker for the front. unless you can afford one ARB then The real desicion is what end to put what on. I'd probably go with putting the ARB in the rear and OX in the front. Although I'd personnaly go with a detroit in the rear and OX in the front. I dont really care for the air system of the ARB but thats just me. As it only seems to have a few issues.
I would really consider what you actually need as a locker in the rear only can make a big differance and a front locker may not even be needed.

 

[eds66bronco]

I'd second the detroit in the rear. Been running one for about 4 years Street and trail. If you are not heavy footed on the street, they are very easy going (Soft Locker type). Wet, slick, or icy... thats another story. I also have the e-locker in front that only gets occasional use due to the detroit in the rear. The only down side is on a few obstacles that are off camber and slick. The rear will just sideslip where as with the open diff, i would climb right up. Small price to pay. Of course if i had the money, i would have gone with arb's front and rear...

 

[Devin]

Just save up for a bit longer and get the ARBs.

 

[evil69]

Detroits are crap. Snap an axle and they say bu-bye. Front or rear first depends on your plans for the truck. I have done ways (locked rear only/front only) Front works way better since you do not need to bump over stuff with the front. But for mud, I would say the rear. Sand, I have no idea since I don't get to play in that. Really wanna find out which is better, ride with somebody with ARBs front and rear and ask them to use just one or the other, then try it the opposite way.

 

[gjrock]

Detroit Soft in the rear.love mine and it is sturdy.Been running it for years.

 

[00gyrhed]

Your gonna get so many conflicting opinions you will not ever feel good about what you decide to do. Some one will disagree and say whatever you do decide to do is crap. Go cheap and save your money. Drop ins are fine unless you hammer them or jump them. Be careful with them and when they do break maybe you can then replace them with ARBs. It is really hard to beat locking both axles for about $400.

I am locked with cheap drop ins front and rear, but I do only run 33's (actual height). I do not expect to break one but I will speculate that the rear will probably only give me 70K miles or so. Thats all I heve ever gotten from a drop in anyway.

I have no driveability problems. You just need to remeber never back off or acceletrate hard in a corner. what they do not like is going from drive to coast and then back to drive. particularly in turns.

 

[kbldawg]

I would save up some more $ and go ARBs front and rear.

 

[Bronchole]

We really need to know how you are going to drive this thing. My opinion, if you are trying to save money and this is a rig that you don't daily drive (primaryly only drive to the places you wheel) full spool the rear and Ausse lock the front. You gatta remember though, if you loack or spool either end you are going to start breaking axles.

Rear spool is cheap (like $160) I think the Ausse is like $250. Thats locked front and rear for less than a single detroit and about 1/4 the cost of ARB's

 

[22213evl]

I have one arb in the rear 4:11s and 35" tires. put a arb in the REAR!! then save up some $$$ for the front, you won't be sorry

 

[Tito]

ARB rear and either open up front or an aussie. That will keep your drivability but still keep you prepared for some of that flatland wheelin ;D

 

[trailpsycho]

A spool will make for tricky street driving during the FL rains. A Detroit would be a decent second choice...but if you are planning on switching to 31 spl...you are going ot have to buy it, so theres $400-425...plus axles, gears and setup...You are at a grand give or take a few bucks...for $250 more you could have the ARB. When you are talking about $1K, whats $1.25K, really; sure its 25% more. I would save a few more months and not settle.

There are some who say a locked rear is more beneficial than a locked front...others argue the opposite. I would think that it is cheaper and easier to later swap in/build a new 3rd member than it is to build/setup a D44. I would go ahead and get an ARB for the front, set it up the way you want--presumably with 4.11s (maybe new HD shafts, which are a good idea with a locker and anything bigger than 33"s). You can probably find a cheap, open, 4.11 geared 3rd member to match the new front for now (28 or 31 spl--if its a 28 spl run stock axles for now; if its a 31 spl you come across, go ahead and get the Yukons). This way you can still drive it without sinking $2K into the axles. You may decide this this setup provides all the traction you need and that you dont need to do anything with the rear end. If you decide you need a stronger rearend, you can save for a little while and then have your old 3rd member built with the ARB and new gears, etc...

The reason why I argue it this way is long term spending. Sure you may front $150-200 for a used 3rd with 4.11s, but that can be turned around for what you paid once you build up your old 3.50 geared 3rd with the new stuff (in a year or so)...no net loss. If you ARB the rear first, you still have to regear the front. That means you have to put a new carrier up front now...since you presumably want some kind of traction device up front, it means you have to settle. OX is just as expensive as an ARB. The Aussie is supposed to be OK, but in the end it has the weaknesses and negs of any lunch-box style carrier...and there are the drivability issues that can arise in wet, icy conditions if in 4WD... so, spend the money right up front just once! An install (labor at most 'shops'), unless you have good friends who can do it for beer (=almost free, unless they are slow and thirsty), will run you between $300-500 to install the locker and gears for just the front...you dont want to do that twice. Finding a properly geared 3rd member is much easier, can be swapped within minutes and keeps more $ in your pocket until you are ready to spend. This way, you end up with a selectable up front right off the bat. If you need traction, lock it, if you need 4wd in questionable weather, leave it open. The cost of adding air is not very much--whether you use a small compressor or a small CO2 tank, its about a wash.

 

[ken75ranger]

I like most of trailpsycho's for thinking for us northern folks but brian72's in Tampa. The front locker shouldn't be an issue due to no snowy roads. The wet traction in the rear could be though.
Brian72, What's your budget? Do you have anyone to help you setup gears?
What kind of wheeling do you do? These thing will make a difference.

 

[amc78cj7]

Wow! Don't listen to the guy saying to go open in the rear and locked up front. I will just say it is DANGEROUS as your front tries to claw through and your rear just slops around. Always better to push than pull.

As for selection, since you have lockouts on the front you can go with a full-time F&R. I personally think Detroits are the best, especially if cost is factored in.

 

[trailpsycho]

Wow! Don't listen to the guy saying to go open in the rear and locked up front. I will just say it is DANGEROUS as your front tries to claw through and your rear just slops around. Always better to push than pull.

As for selection, since you have lockouts on the front you can go with a full-time F&R. I personally think Detroits are the best, especially if cost is factored in.

Its not dangerous. It may not be ideal, but as I said, its a means to an end. My idea is the cheapest way of getting what he really wants--selectables om both front and rear--in a piece-meal fashion. An open 4.11 3rd member can be picked up cheap (used) from alot of sources. Replace it with an ARB, HD 31 spl axles and matching gearset later when its affordable. Maybe you need to reread (or actually read) the post.

I ran a Detroit for 8-9 years, nothing wrong with a Detroit; they can be a little squirrelly if you are a spririted driver in slick conditions.

 

[rednck21]

Detroits are crap. Snap an axle and they say bu-bye.

not in the rear. speaking of detroits...you got another one like the one i got from you awhile back?? i love a detroit in the rear;D

 

[brian72]

I have never setup gears, nor do I have anyone close that can help. A couple of the local 4x4 shops have quoted me prices for the lockers and the setup. It put me over my $1500. If I could setup the gears and tear them down anytime I wanted I would save up for the ARBs, but if I gotta pay someone to install the 4.11 gears and then pay them again to install the ARBs, it gets expensive.

A lot of the driving around here is flat. Some mud, but I don't like to subject my truck to that. The biggest stuff I could see is at riverock, GA 6 hours away.

If I install one ARB then I will install another to take advantage of the compressor.

Maybe I will just install the 4.11 stuff, pay for setup. Save and then install lockers, pay for setup.

 

[ken75ranger]

Wihout a lot of rocks or mud you might very well be happy with just a gear swap.
I had an interesting talk with the owner of Aussie lockers. Seems their 9 inch locker(31 spline) replaces both the side gears in an open carrier. Most lunchbox style only replace one side. He had no way to tell if you could go to 31 spline aussie in a 28 spline carrier though. It might be an inexpensive option to get a 31 spline carrier if it works. %)