If you could not afford ARB front and rear..

[Socal Tom]

My advice,

1st choice, ARB in the rear. Leave the front open
2nd choice Detroit in the rear and ARB in the front.

If you are going to run just one locker make it the rear. 90% of the trails only need a rear locker anyhow. I have a rear detroit and front ARB. I rarely use the ARB. When I need it, it is nice to have though.
Tom

 

[JWMcCrary]

What I state is that if you are running an open rear and a locked front (whether selectable or full-time) your front STEERING axle will be pulling the dead weight of your vehicle if both rear wheels aren't getting traction. This is dangerous in that you have no control over where the rear of the vehicle goes and can create a situation where the vehicle is not aligned properly with the desired line on the trail. I have observed this happening and when the rear slid sideways and the front started clawing up an embankment the entire rig rolled.

I have no issues with selectable vs. full-time other than the ARB air lines used to have issues. I personally have had good success with the Detroits.

Yes, I have wheeled. Yes, open rear / front locked is dangerous.

For what it is worth.........I worked for a company for 18 years that owned approx 50 offroad utility buggies and drilling rigs. They were all full time 4X4 and came from the factory locked in the front and open in the rear. The safety department constantly investigated issues/accidents, some that were rollovers and there was never a finding that it was because it was only locked in the front.

 

[JWMcCrary]

And how many of your drivers were certified? And what road / trail conditions were they doing? Please validate your statement. Moderately experienced driver in rough conditions with locked front and open rear is dangerous. Personally i think this is a bit off topic now. I agree with most that full-time rear (detroit or spool or welded) is first step then selectable front is second. Want more opinions on the open rear / locked front hazards, check out the Pirate board or run a web search. I'm certain I'm not alone on this.

Please refer back to the "For what it's worth" part of my statement.

 

[00gyrhed]

Please refer back to the "For what it's worth" part of my statement.

Nice ;D

Didn't I say this would turn into a big mess of opinioins. Well something like that anyway.

 

[evil69]

Moderately experienced driver in rough conditions with locked front and open rear is dangerous.

Moderately experienced driver in rough conditions is dangerous with ANYTHING. The lockers mean squat. So all newbies should take two plug wires off for the safety of less power to do stupid things.%) Driving skills are learned. For the most part everyone here is running a high power short wheel base lifted truck. That is dangerous period. Maybe we should all build stocky 6 EBs since a lot of people haven't driven a high powered short wheel base lifted truck. Give me a break, wheeling is dangerous someone got hurt. Well, a friend once told me "stupid hurts". Assuming that the vehicle is unsafe due to driver error is side splitting.

 

[00gyrhed]

Moderately experienced driver in rough conditions is dangerous with ANYTHING. The lockers mean squat. So all newbies should take two plug wires off for the safety of less power to do stupid things.%) Driving skills are learned. For the most part everyone here is running a high power short wheel base lifted truck. That is dangerous period. Maybe we should all build stocky 6 EBs since a lot of people haven't driven a high powered short wheel base lifted truck. Give me a break, wheeling is dangerous someone got hurt. Well, a friend once told me "stupid hurts". Assuming that the vehicle is unsafe due to driver error is side splitting.

Well stated. I have a buddy that will not put lockers in his Bronco because some idiot he knows rolled his jeep on pavement locked in the front and rear and somehow it was the lockers fault. I can't convince him even when I am on one side of an obstical and he is stuck.

 

[evil69]

Ah the truth comes out....... From what you have seen and or heard. Just never experienced behind the wheel?????

Well I as well as a lot of people running ARBs front and rear usually run around open and click just one on if needed, then two if one doesn't work. You still have yet to make a valid point of how front locked rear open is dangerous. Driver error is not acceptable as danger. You put doubts out there, back them up. Or we will end up with a bunch of tards like gyrhed's buddy. Scared to run a locker......

 

[lonesouth]

And I'm surprised no one has mentioned that this is a bronco site....

 

[bax]

Hey! This is a Bronco site!
I'm happy now.

 

[RIbronco]

Yup it's a Bronco site, and Ford sold the EB with front LSD and rear open differentials.

I like the idea of front first rear second, due to the overall cost savings.

 

[evil69]

You sir must have eaten paint chips. In reality, a locker in the rear only is more dangerous on the street since it will lock and unlock in corners throwing the truck off while a front locker has no effect while in two wheel drive. You have yet to explain one point that makes sense at all. Because you seen some tard jump on the gas when they should have jumped off does not in fact make the set unsafe, just the driver. Prove your point!!!!!!!!!

 

[KyleQ]

Wow - pound the sand out guys. Do what you can afford - locking the rear should probably be done first. My F150 came with the lsd factory rear and it worked pretty darn well - the single best thing I've done to the truck is the Power-Lok front limited slip. Having confidence that both front tires are going to pull through anything (even with a tire off the ground) is very helpful. The front actually would hold both tires spinning much more the the rear and I've never had any issues at all. Granted these are limited slip differentials - but they say the Power-Lok is 90-95% lockup, very close to a locker.
You should never drive on dry pavement with the front locked - you are asking for trouble....
The idea of the ARB up front first is a very valid point for cost effectiveness - I've never even looked into an ARB because of the sheer cost involved - but now I'm thinking of it...
The Bronco is lightweight (I'm used to wheeling my F150 and a 78 Bronco) and an Aussie locker should work great for this platform. Very cheap, easy to install, and is pretty strong (for a lunchbox)
Do what you can afford - save up for an extra month. Cut eating out, your morning designer coffee, drive a little slower. If you want to get what you truly want, make some sacrifices! Installing gears and lockers are very spendy - you should probably only do it once. To stay "safe" ARB the front and toss an Aussie in the rear - the 9" is very versatile and has good resell value due to it's design.

I'm going to be running a full width D60 with moly shafts, drive flanges, CTM's and either an ARB or Detroit - it's either all or nothing. I've built a few rigs and cheeped out on the expensive stuff and constantly broke and was never really happy. Do what is going to make YOU happy - nobody else is going to drive the rig as much as you - do what YOU want. Detroit's have broken in the field from breakage - some survive. Take that with a grain of salt - I've never heard of a broken ARB from drive-line failures...

 

[amc78cj7]

You sir must have eaten paint chips. In reality, a locker in the rear only is more dangerous on the street since it will lock and unlock in corners throwing the truck off while a front locker has no effect while in two wheel drive. You have yet to explain one point that makes sense at all. Because you seen some tard jump on the gas when they should have jumped off does not in fact make the set unsafe, just the driver. Prove your point!!!!!!!!!

I quit. I already told you to do what you want.

 

[brian72]

Thanks to the guys who stayed on topic. And suggested what 2nd best might be...but for those of you using this to test your 4x4 "I know more than you" insight, next time take it to another topic.

HIJACK NOW OVER

 

[evil69]

And that has jack to do with safety. And what goes up must come down, so the other 50% of the time, the weight is forward........ Trust me having a front locked to crawl over rocks and logs rather than hit them with speed is a much better setup. If the front is open, the tire acts as an plow. Then you back up and hit it harder. Yeah, thats safe. There is nothing to research, your are claiming he is being lead astray by me, yet have yet to PROVE one valid point. It happened once that you have seen so its the deathtrap. I once seen a guy burn his car down at a gas station putting gas in it, maybe I should stop putting fuel in my car. (the factors not listed is the dude was smoking and spilling gas, but it is a know fact gas will burn).

I guess I will go back to wheeling my ticking timebomb.....

 

[ken75ranger]

Thanks to the guys who stayed on topic. And suggested what 2nd best might be...but for those of you using this to test your 4x4 "I know more than you" insight, next time take it to another topic.

HIJACK NOW OVER

Amen brother!
So you say you have around $1500 to spend.
Lets call it 500 to install the gears. $500
31 spline axles for the rear $250
gears and install kits $450
Detroit for the rear $500
Opps! Your over budget. Better take up bax on his offer.;D
That should really get you where you want to go.