ignition problem

[beasterly]

She fires but the second the key kicks back it shuts down. Starter won't shut off some times is this my selonoid or ignition switch problem??

 

[73azbronco]

Most likely it is the switch, i would try changing that out after inspecting the wiring around the plug on back of switch for chaffing.

 

[jason_marshall1]

Most likely it is the switch, i would try changing that out after inspecting the wiring around the plug on back of switch for chaffing.

Agreed. The starter solenoid has nothing to do with the ignition, so if the engine dies, it sounds like a switch issue. Assuming you know it used to work and the bronco is not new to you with an unknown history - I've seen some pretty creative wiring 'fixes'.

 

[beasterly]

No I have ad it for 8 years I did a over haul a few years ago now getting it go in again it has a centric harness

 

[jckkys]

The ignition switch in cranking bypasses the the resistance wire so there's more voltage. This alone may be your problem. The resistance wire connections or the wire itself may be bad. I had this problem with a Duraspark II ignition and had to replace the module to distributor harness that was bad.

 

[ared77]

"Agreed. The starter solenoid has nothing to do with the ignition"

Sorry, but I disagree. The "I" terminal on a Ford starter relay (solenoid) supplies a full 12 volts to coil during start up to help fire it up. Then when you release key to "run" position the 6-7 volts or so from the ignition switch replace the full 12 volts. It gets reduced because it runs through a resistance wire between switch and coil.

 

[ared77]

"is this my selonoid or ignition switch problem??"

Could be either or both. Many solenoids these days are junk made in China. I'd get a known good solenoid (I always like to have a spare) and try that first because it's an easy swap. If the problem persist and you decide the solenoid was good after all, then you now have a good back-up if ever needed.

Good luck, and let us know!

 

[beasterly]

I'll give it a try.It is duo ignition on a 250 inline 6

 

[beasterly]

I'll give it a try.It is DUI on a 250 inline 6

 

[DirtDonk]

This would have been good to know right off the bat. An HEI would necessarily be wired completely different from a stock ignition.

If the stock wiring harness was still used, some things would be the same, but not all. Since this has a Centech harness in it, you might need to trace a few wires to make sure it's still valid.
At the starter relay, you will have a Violet (purple) wire on the S terminal. On the other small terminal (usually marked with an "I" for ignition) you "might" have a White wire. If you do, and that wire is connected in the harness, then all of the previous suggestions are still valid.

If not, you may have some digging to do.
Luckily, the way yours is acting is consistent with having the White wire connected to one of the Blue wires near the passenger side rear corner of the engine compartment. If the Blue wire then goes on to power the HEI distributor, then the other Blue wire from the harness (from the ignition switch) is not getting it's signal.

I'm pretty sure (but not 100%) the Centech fuse panel has a fuse for ignition duties. Better check all of the fuses while you're digging around just to make sure you're not simply fighting a blown fuse.
Of course, then it's the fun time finding out what blew it originally!

Oh, and last question for now... Is this a real HEI ignition with the big GM style cap and the coil integrated on top? Or is this an "HEI" (as in high-energy ignition) maybe from a Ford Duaraspark or other aftermarket style?

Thanks
Good luck.

Paul