Ignition switch accessory, center wiring harness. I don’t have any power when turn key to the left. Little help please lol

[Concrete]

I’m building my 1st bronco from scratch. With that said I’m using a centec wiring harness, new ignition switch. I can’t get power when turn key to the accessory side(to the left). What am I missing? Thanks

 

[904Bronco]

One issue I have with the Centech harness, is that there is no wiring diagram to follow when you run into problems... From what I remember and looking at an old set of Centech instructions...

So 4 wires going to the Ign switch: You need a test light or VOM to check

White - Ign power
Red - 12v Batt Power
Purple - Start
Black - Accesory power

Do you have Batt power to the switch?
If so, when you put the switch into Acc is there power to the center post of the Ign switch? (Passes though Ign plug)
Is the black wire attached to that center post... small lock washer and nut, is that connection tight?
If all that is in place, and you do not have power to the center post, could the switch be bad?
(Check if there is power to White wire in run and/or power to purple wire in start)

 

[Concrete]

There is power coming out of the center post, but only when turn key to the right. bronco will start, power to the radio but only when you turn key to the right. You turn key to accessory (to the left) there is no power coming out of the center post. I’m on my second switch as well with the same result. Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

That sounds like a defective switch to me.
The Centech switches included with many of their harnesses have generally been pretty good quality and reliability. But they don't make the parts themselves, so are subject to the same issues everyone else is.
Is the switch a new one? Who did you get the harness or switch from? If us (at Wild Horses), give the shop a call and, based on your testing or perhaps some other questions someone might have that has knowledge about such things, we'll send a replacement out.
You can also call Centech, but I would think it better to call the reseller rather than the manufacturer. They'll get the message in turn, but usually problems like this can be dealt with by the vendor.
Who hopefully still has parts in stock! With the crappy delivery schedule of late, that's always a question.

I can't tell you how to take one apart and fix it, because I've never done that to a Bronco switch. Probably pretty easy, but obviously you should not have to do that. So a new replacement would be my recommended first choice.
If you still have your old switch that worked, you can definitely throw that one in there not only as a usable temp until the new one arrives, or at the very least as a test unit to compare to the one we suspect is bad.

Good luck!

Paul

 

[Concrete]

I’m gonna call centec and see what I’m missing. I don’t think it’s the ignition switch. I’m on my second switch with the same result. Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

That’s not impossible these days either. I think one member here went through four switches before he got a good one.

(Edit: sorry, the bezel comment was from another discussion)

The other issue we run into these days is a defective main ignition switch connector. That’s the black one that slides over the stud and is held in place by the nut that holds the accessory wire in place. But in your case there’s no short circuit and you are getting power went in the ON position. Inconsistent with a bad connector.

Seems to me the only two things that can cause that are either a bad ignition switch, or the wires in the connector are oriented incorrectly. But if that was the case I don’t think it would work in the ON position as well either.

 

[904Bronco]

As I wrote on you FB post, try removing the key/tumbler and use a large screw driver to turn the Ign switch to the left. Looking to see if the old key/tumbler in a new switch is the problem.

 

[Concrete]

As I wrote on you FB post, try removing the key/tumbler and use a large screw driver to turn the Ign switch to the left. Looking to see if the old key/tumbler in a new switch is the problem.

Ok, I’ll look for the old ignition. I’m not sure I have it. This project started from boxes lol. I will look and try. Thanks

 

[Concrete]

That’s not impossible these days either. I think one member here went through four switches before he got a good one.

(Edit: sorry, the bezel comment was from another discussion)

The other issue we run into these days is a defective main ignition switch connector. That’s the black one that slides over the stud and is held in place by the nut that holds the accessory wire in place. But in your case there’s no short circuit and you are getting power went in the ON position. Inconsistent with a bad connector.

Seems to me the only two things that can cause that are either a bad ignition switch, or the wires in the connector are oriented incorrectly. But if that was the case I don’t think it would work in the ON position as well either.

Yes I considered the black plug and wiring leading to the plug. I don’t think that’s my problem. Buuuuut I’m just a parts changer lol. Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

I don’t think 904 meant look for your old ignition switch (although that would be an excellent test!). He just meant take your old lock cylinder out and use a screwdriver to manipulate the existing switch to see if it still has no power in ACC.
Doing that will at least eliminate the ignition lock cylinder as the problem causer and keep narrowing down the list.

If you are able to find another switch though, that would be great as it’s got a better chance of working then another new one.

 

[Concrete]

I don’t think 904 meant look for your old ignition switch (although that would be an excellent test!). He just meant take your old lock cylinder out and use a screwdriver to manipulate the existing switch to see if it still has no power in ACC.
Doing that will at least eliminate the ignition lock cylinder as the problem causer and keep narrowing down the list.

If you are able to find another switch though, that would be great as it’s got a better chance of working then another new one.

Ha my bad, I did use the screw driver. I do have power out of the accessory post. So now it’s like the key will not turn to the left as far as needed. But the switch works with a screw driver. So it’s not the harness. Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

You might ask a local locksmith if they can change the tumblers in a new cylinder to match your old key. A key which will certainly be worn down quite a bit.
I liked my original key too, and I still have it. But I retired it from daily use 30 years ago and bought a new lock cylinder and matching door locks so that one key would still do both.
But a new key without all the wear on it.

And just for giggles you may want to put your current lock cylinder back into the ignition switch and try to turn it with a screwdriver. You might be surprised…
By the time these things were about 10 years old a good percentage of them could be turned with another Ford key or a screwdriver. It was kind of a running joke we had with our Old Ford‘s. Whenever another Ford guy would be around we’d all try using our keys in the different vehicles. As often as not, a key would work in someone else’s lock.

 

[Concrete]

You might ask a local locksmith if they can change the tumblers in a new cylinder to match your old key. A key which will certainly be worn down quite a bit.
I liked my original key too, and I still have it. But I retired it from daily use 30 years ago and bought a new lock cylinder and matching door locks so that one key would still do both.
But a new key without all the wear on it.

And just for giggles you may want to put your current lock cylinder back into the ignition switch and try to turn it with a screwdriver. You might be surprised…
By the time these things were about 10 years old a good percentage of them could be turned with another Ford key or a screwdriver. It was kind of a running joke we had with our Old Ford‘s. Whenever another Ford guy would be around we’d all try using our keys in the different vehicles. As often as not, a key would work in someone else’s lock.

Thanks for the help, it was my mistake. The plug that goes to the back of ignition switch, I bought from Amazon. The wires are a different color. So I guessed (assumed) how the wires went thru plug molding. I guessed wrong. I should have checked for continuity 1st. Thank you for continuing to help!

 

[DirtDonk]

Sounds like you're in business then!
Good to hear.

Paul

 

[Johnnyb]

So I have exactly the same symptoms. Was this just the cylinder not turning far enough to the left or was there a wiring issue as well?

THX,
-JB

 

[DirtDonk]

In the original poster’s case, they had it wired incorrectly.
Probably had power coming in on the wrong wire.
It’s fairly easy to do when using an aftermarket harness other than Painless, because most of them use General Motors color coding. While a replacement switch connector would usually have Ford colors.
So the red from Centech would go to the yellow from Ford.
Purple would go to the red with blue stripe.
The white would go to the red with green stripe, or green with red stripe.
And black would go to black.

What harness are you using?

 

[DirtDonk]

Although back to the original post, there were clues in there that were inconsistent.
Originally they said that when using a screwdriver to turn the switch, they got it to work.
If it was wired incorrectly however, that should not have fixed it.