Is this bearing noise?

[Isaiah99]

https://youtu.be/FrrGhJMaks8

I was told that it probably isn't bad because the wheel didn't have any play in it and it spins freely. Also is it a sealed bearing? Or can it be greased?

Any help is appreciated

 

[blubuckaroo]

That's my guess.
Pull the axles for a look. Pulling axles is necessary to inspect that rear end any further anyway.

The factory axles use sealed bearings that are pressed onto the axles. If you don't have a press, most machine shops and some good auto parts stores can press them off and the new ones on for you.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep, you're that far in, so just pull the shaft out and check the bearing directly.
Or better yet, just replace them both no matter what, because if they're original, then that grease is 38 to 50 years old (depending on what year your EB is, since you didn't say) and the rear bearings are only good for about 100k miles before they should be at least checked.
Mine crapped out just over 90k miles, but with some hard use in their short life.
Many get 120k to 140k miles, but from my experience those are exceptions. By the time your truck has 120,000 miles on it, you can actually expect a catastrophic failure while the bearing is under load. Such as when loaded for a weekend outing, towing a small boat or trailer, or just whipping down the highway at higher speeds.

Too many variables to bother with testing. If in doubt, replace them both.
It's just cheap insurance.

Do you know your Bronco's history? If not, all the more reason to just do it.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and about that "it's not bad until it has play and spins freely" thing. It's just wrong.
It might be "by the book" but does not always follow the real world.
Just like failed, or failing u-joints. Each one can give you a different clue. Vibrations, noise, excess play, leaking, or in some cases, no clue at all.

Even modern unit-type wheel bearings can fail and not give you the normally expected clues. I've had four worn out unit bearings on different cars, and all four had different symptoms. With only one having excessive play.
And of course, I was sure that was the one making all the noise. It wasn't...

The others made noise and one even leaked. The loose one was dead quiet.

My '71's large bearing was not as easy to turn as yours, and did not make noise when rotating. But when I was doing the brakes I tested it for play, found more than I liked and could hear a dry chunky sound when I wobbled it up and down.
Replaced them both and found my Bronco rolled noticeably easier on the road. Turns out they were adding rolling resistance and I didn't even know it.

A friend's Super Duty lost it's unit bearing on a trip to BC last year, and he only knew it when the truck started to slow down unexpectedly. When he got out to see what was up, the one side was just smoldering and about to light up the truck!
Oh, and I've probably known of at least 15 Early Broncos that lost a wheel and an axle due to original rear wheel bearings having been left in too long. A couple of them here on the forums.

Hence me looking at replacing them as "cheap insurance" these days.
Especially if this Bronco is new to you, and you don't know the history of it and can't find out from the PO.

Paul

 

[broncodriver99]

Sure sounds like it. I would definitely pull it apart and find the source of the noise. Noisy but no play can quickly turn into serious problems if it is a bearing going bad.

 

[gravylakeseb]

That sound is outrageous. I put a lot of off road miles on my 73 and replaced rear axle bearings every few years. Learned to do that after shooting down grade on a paved mountain road and my rear tire and axle passed me on a curve!! Noise is the first sign for me. Pull the axle, clean the bearing well, and spin it to check, and then roll it slowly with your finger -- you can feel the gritty, rough spots. That pressed bearing retainer is the only thing keeping the axle and wheel attached. When in doubt, I replace.

Rig has set for a few tears, so bearings will be replaced again.

Your noise sounds like you may have some stamped steel parts rubbing -- has an echo sound like metal thinner than a bearing rubbing in the outer axle assembly. Interesting.

 

[grant_71]

Just out of curiosity, are the brakes still together on the opposite side? Sounds like brake noise (parking brake, drum, shoes, etc)

But as everyone said, you have it this far apart, just replace the bearings, change the oil, and have piece of mind.

I honestly believe that the drum brakes are the worst part about rebuilding a 9"

 

[Rustytruck]

Your lucky the truck is giving you a warning that something is amiss in the rear end. Heed the warning or don't be surprised when the bearings blows up on you. if your lucky its the outer axle bearing and not the inner carrier bearing or pinion bearing. Buy a name brand bearing.

 

[DirtDonk]

As they said, noise can really travel in a situation like this. We've seen rear u-joints sound like something wrong with items farther forward, from the transfer case all the way to the front axle!
But yours is so loud and distinct, that it sure sounds to be coming from right there under your fingers.

And remember too, when testing something like this by hand/feel, a sealed and fully greased bearing like these when new is actually kind of hard to spin. So if you can spin yours and it keeps rolling for even a half a turn, it's on it's way out. If it keeps turning like you'd expect a dry bearing to do, it's toast.

Can't wait to hear what you find.

Paul

 

[Isaiah99]

I pulled the drivers side axle and the bearing doesn't make any noise when i turn it by hand, but when i put it back in it makes the noise again. It definitely sound like its coming from the bearing area though.
Is it normal for the noise to go away when it is out?

 

[Viperwolf1]

I pulled the drivers side axle and the bearing doesn't make any noise when i turn it by hand, but when i put it back in it makes the noise again. It definitely sound like its coming from the bearing area though.
Is it normal for the noise to go away when it is out?

The housing may be amplifying the noise and your hand may be muffling it. I would definitely replace the bearing. When that's done you will most likely start to hear the same noise coming from the other side.

 

[Isaiah99]

Is this the right bearing? i have 10 inch brake drums.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Is this the right bearing? i have 10 inch brake drums.

Depends on year of axle. Prior to '74 all 10" drums used the small bearing. In '74 and '75 10" drums could be small or big bearing. Get the part number from the brake backing plate and I can tell you which it is.

 

[blubuckaroo]

None of the axle bearings are Bronco specific. There's no reason to pay shipping if you have a good auto part store nearby.
I usually buy parts from a real auto parts supply like Carquest or NAPA. Many of those places will replace the bearing on your axle for a good price if you buy from them.

 

[DirtDonk]

...Is it normal for the noise to go away when it is out?

Nothing's normal about bearing noise. The type of sound that comes from one axle is not always the same as another.
Did you happen to try spinning the other wheel while the axle on this side was out? That might tell you if the noise is coming from somewhere else, or perhaps both of them making noise is amplifying it somehow?

How did it feel when you spun the bearing by hand? Was it easy to turn, and would spin freely? Did it feel loose or sloppy at all?
Or was is solid and stopped spinning as soon as you let go?
And regarding the "feel" of it, was it even remotely rough, or would you describe it as smooth as velvet?

If you've ever played with a brand new bearing, you'll know what I mean by smooth as velvet. Just no comparison between a new and old worn out bearing.

Paul

 

[Isaiah99]

I took off all of the brake parts until the bearing retainer plate didn't spin. And when the plate didn't spin the noise went away! The bearing seemed to spin easily and fairly smooth but not perfect. It looks like it has been replaced but since i don't know when I'll still replace them.

What could i do to fix the noisy plate?

And since I'm replacing all the wheel cylinders should I do anything with bearings in the front?

 

[Isaiah99]

None of the axle bearings are Bronco specific. There's no reason to pay shipping if you have a good auto part store nearby.
I usually buy parts from a real auto parts supply like Carquest or NAPA. Many of those places will replace the bearing on your axle for a good price if you buy from them.

Thanks, I'll check Napa tomorrow for bearings and wheel cylinders.

 

[DirtDonk]

I took off all of the brake parts until the bearing retainer plate didn't spin. And when the plate didn't spin the noise went away! The bearing seemed to spin easily and fairly smooth but not perfect. It looks like it has been replaced but since i don't know when I'll still replace them.

Sounds like a plan. If it's not perfect, it's not good anymore. And the not knowing goes right to the old "when in doubt" scenario.

What could i do to fix the noisy plate?

Not sure I understand. Why is the retainer spinning?
I read and re-read that first sentence and can't see how removing brake parts gets to the point that something is not spinning. The retainer plate (should be the flat plate with 4 holes, correct?) is bolted to the axle housing flange. Doesn't spin.

And since I'm replacing all the wheel cylinders should I do anything with bearings in the front?

Just clean them good, check them for condition (by hand spinning them in their races to check the "feel"), then re-pack, re-adjust and you're good to go.
If they don't feel perfectly velvety smooth when you spin them in the races, replace both the bearing and race (aka cone and cup) and if they're maintained from here on out, they should last the life of the truck.

There is a very specific adjusting procedure that you need to know about.
Do you already have one of the hub nut sockets? Or bearing adjusting socket or whatever you want to call it. Has the 4 prongs on it like this: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Wheel_Bearing_Nut_Socket

Thanks, I'll check Napa tomorrow for bearings and wheel cylinders.

You might still be able to see the part numbers on the edge of your existing ones, but the part numbers are as follows:

'66 to '68 Small bearing: #RW207CCRA and seal #6939
'69 to '75 Small bearing: #RW207CCRA and seal #9568
'66 to '77 Big bearing: #514003P and seal #51098

Paul

 

[Isaiah99]

Not sure I understand. Why is the retainer spinning?
I read and re-read that first sentence and can't see how removing brake parts gets to the point that something is not spinning. The retainer plate (should be the flat plate with 4 holes, correct?) is bolted to the axle housing flange. Doesn't spin.

I worded that part wrong... What i meant was when the axle spins and the retainer doesn't it makes that noise, but when i let the plate spin (had to take everything of the side of the axle housing) with the axle the noise is gone.

 

[DirtDonk]

Gotcha. Well, it could still be a bearing that's slipped and allowing some of the axle shaft material to touch the retainer, or there could be some other distortion inside somewhere.
Or it's simply some bearing noise that, when under the slightest pressure is more noticeable, plus amplified by being transferred through the metal of the retainer and housing.

That would be my hope anyway. If it's the fact that it's pushing the axle in far enough to cause some sort of aggravation inside the differential itself, that would get much more expensive.

Here's to hoping it's just putting pressure on the bearing that you can't put on it by hand.

Paul