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is this roll bar too far gone to save?

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
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Aug 7, 2012
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Hope you can see the images well enough....
 

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bronconut73

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
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9,918
I've been hanging on to it for a template to make another one.
But with roll bars so cheap anymore. Less than 2 c-notes for diy kit. I guess I may not need it.
 

Crush

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May 30, 2007
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Greenbottom, WV
I would not use it but keep it for a template if you like that design. keep in mind that even the diy kits will require a little modding to get it to fit. no two broncos are exactly alike. I bought a kentrol sport cage in 1999 and just installed it in a bronco. love the design but to get it to look exactly how I wanted it to, I had to mod it a little.
 

Jeff76

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Dec 23, 2011
Messages
638
Loc.
Alpharetta GA
Beware the kits! This one started out as a simple kit, but once you start cutting and grinding and welding, etc...

If I wanted a simple roll bar, I would by it welded and eat the extra freight. It will save you time and money in the long run, believe me... ; )

Jeff

BTW: I wouldn't trust my life with that rusted roll bar. Lay it down on some cardboard and trace it for future reference, and sell it for scrap.
 

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kurtboyd

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Aug 14, 2010
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Cave Creek, AZ
It's easy to say just junk it. Based on the pics, it's hard to determine. Assuming it's tubing and not pipe (there's a lot of that out there), it may be usable. Cages typically fail at welds. What is the wall thickness of the tubing? What condition are the welds in?

Broncos that I've seen roll (full cages or not) typically take a beating across the top of the windshield frame. Jeeps are pretty much the same.

In my area, 120 wall tubing sells for about $3.20 per ft. I'm not sure what roll bar kits sell for because I do my own work. One things for sure, unless you get fancy with some bondo or something, that pitted material will always show. By the time you mess around with cosmetics, you might as well just do something else. Might not matter if it's just a trail rig.
 

Jeff76

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Dec 23, 2011
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Loc.
Alpharetta GA
In my area, 120 wall tubing sells for about $3.20 per ft. I'm not sure what roll bar kits sell for because I do my own work.

Kits are expensive because you pay the freight twice. The guys making the kit has to pay freight and the guy buying the kit has to pay it again. It's built in overhead cost. Not everyone has the equipment to bend tubing themselves, though. That's why I bought a kit initially. Once you start fitting and modifying, you might as well make it from scratch, or hire someone locally to do it for you. It's cheaper in the long run, and you get what you want specific to your needs...

Jeff
 

DirtDonk

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Messages
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That's a sweet cage Jeff. So that was a "kit" originally?
Based on Bronconut's pics, I would think initially that he's looking for just your basic roll bar (and maybe the front cage) type kits.
That the case 73?

If so, he's looking at the neighborhood of $360-ish plus shipping and minimal welding.
Mind if I ask how much your cage kit cost shipped? When you say "simple" just how basic did it start out as? Did you add your own touches, or is it just an upgraded kit from the same source?
Looks like it was worth it, whatever it was.

Paul
 

Broncitis

MEB Founder
Joined
May 18, 2004
Messages
5,267
Kits are expensive because you pay the freight twice. The guys making the kit has to pay freight and the guy buying the kit has to pay it again. It's built in overhead cost. Not everyone has the equipment to bend tubing themselves, though. That's why I bought a kit initially. Once you start fitting and modifying, you might as well make it from scratch, or hire someone locally to do it for you. It's cheaper in the long run, and you get what you want specific to your needs...

Jeff

Not following the paying freight twice?

Anyone making kits likely gets their steel from a local steel supplier. I get mine and they deliver it "free" to my shop for less than what most people I see on here and elsewhere are paying per foot in their area or in short lengths over the internet.

The inbound freight of the material to the fabricator is very small compared to the actual material and labor, overhead and margin involved.
 

Jeff76

Full Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
638
Loc.
Alpharetta GA
That's a sweet cage Jeff. So that was a "kit" originally?
Based on Bronconut's pics, I would think initially that he's looking for just your basic roll bar (and maybe the front cage) type kits.
That the case 73?

If so, he's looking at the neighborhood of $360-ish plus shipping and minimal welding.
Mind if I ask how much your cage kit cost shipped? When you say "simple" just how basic did it start out as? Did you add your own touches, or is it just an upgraded kit from the same source?
Looks like it was worth it, whatever it was.

Paul

Hey Paul,

I think the A and B pillars are from the original kit. Then you start thinking and modifying and adding. You know the drill with Bronco projects. Wanted to attach the seat belts to the cage, so hence the floor bars. Found a local guy with bending equipment. Actually made and cut/fit additional bars to use for seat mounts, but my son wants to keep the stock seats, so left them off for now...

But I have purchased roll bars fully welded in the past...remember smittybilt?

As far as the shipping cost, I don't know. Bought the kit over a year ago, and after I enter it into my Bronco cost basis spreadsheet, I forget. It's almost like amnesia. I guess if I remembered all the costs, I might develop depression...it's good enough to document it so my kids can review one day, and understand why there's no inheritance!

Jeff
 

Jeff76

Full Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
638
Loc.
Alpharetta GA
Not following the paying freight twice?

Anyone making kits likely gets their steel from a local steel supplier. I get mine and they deliver it "free" to my shop for less than what most people I see on here and elsewhere are paying per foot in their area or in short lengths over the internet.

The inbound freight of the material to the fabricator is very small compared to the actual material and labor, overhead and margin involved.

Didn't really mean to get into an economics debate because I would be in over my head from the beginning, but unless your local steel supplier is positioned at a steel mill, there is embedded freight cost in the price you pay, regardless of whether you pay shipping from the local supplier. No doubt if you buy in volume, you get a better deal than a guy that buys a small amount for a single cage project from *their* local supplier.

The second freight cost is from the fabricator to the end customer. Wasn't really trying ruffle any feathers, but any one on this board can acknowledge that shipping costs for bronco parts is a significant portion of building these machines. The heavier the part, the more expense involved. If is costs $100 to ship a $600 cage kit, that's an approximate 20% cost adder.

Did I explain myself, or am I just digging my own grave here? ; )

Jeff
 
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bronconut73

bronconut73

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Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,918
That's a sweet cage Jeff. So that was a "kit" originally?
Based on Bronconut's pics, I would think initially that he's looking for just your basic roll bar (and maybe the front cage) type kits.
That the case 73?

If so, he's looking at the neighborhood of $360-ish plus shipping and minimal welding.
Mind if I ask how much your cage kit cost shipped? When you say "simple" just how basic did it start out as? Did you add your own touches, or is it just an upgraded kit from the same source?
Looks like it was worth it, whatever it was.

Paul


Yes as usual Paul, you have read my mind.
I guess I'm trying to sneak up on cage type protection.
The old lady would likely never let me drop all the cabbage it would take to buy/ship a pre-built cage. I don't really trust my pipe bending skill and don't have a bender anyway. The fact is this is such an important aspect of the build I probably will not trust my self to "all" of the welds on a d.i.y. kit. I originally intended to do a good job of tacking the really important connections then have my buddy/employee (AWS Certified welding inspector) come over and keep an eye on me while I lay out the rest of the beads.
Some of those pre-fab cages are just sooo beautiful. I just don't think most kits will replicate those pre-fab roll bar/cages beauty.
As an example. Those fat tube full cages you guys at WH sell are works of art.
I can't even imagine the shipping for such an item from Cali to Fla.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,228
...But I have purchased roll bars fully welded in the past...remember smittybilt?

You bet! Hard to think of many companies that made such a huge name for themselves in an industry, over a very few years, by selling some tubes bent into funny shapes, eh? ;D
Our San Felipe kit is similar in simplicity, but with more UPS-friendly design.


...Those fat tube full cages you guys at WH sell are works of art.
I can't even imagine the shipping for such an item from Cali to Fla.

More than the law, er, I mean your wife allows!
Actually, it's probably in the neighborhood of $200-$250 by truck, as long you can receive it at a commercial address. So maybe not so bad when considered in total.
Not chicken-feed by any stretch, but at $1150 for the bar, the extra $200 or so might not hurt so much when you price out more custom setups.

As long as fits your needs that is.
If you're ever contemplating it and just want to have all your ducks in a row, just give a quick call or e-mail to get a shipping cost to your zip code. Or the zip code of work or other commercial address near you where you can have it delivered.
In case you're not familiar with truck shipping, deliveries to residential areas can cost from $50 to $150 more than to a more "truck-friendly" commercial area. Depending on the delivery company and other circumstances.

Paul
 

half cab

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Guru Bronco
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Messages
16,289
That one spot in the second picture just past the hole looks like a lot more then pitted?
 
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