Knowing that I have to farm out all work on my Bronco, I'd love your thoughts on this

[Kim]

My fuel tanks are leaking....whether it is the tanks themselves or just the gaskets near the fuel sending unit area....I am not sure....BUT...since my gas gauges aren't working either...so possible fuel sending unit issues....wouldn't it be easier and cheaper just to replace the tanks than try to have a shop figure it all out?

I ask this because I have seen many threads were people have tried to fix their tanks - without success.

Now, knowing I want to keep my truck as stock like as possible....would replacing both tanks be the way to go....or is popping in a high capacity tank ok?

Thank you for your comments. They are greatly appreciated.

 

[Viperwolf1]

What if you pay to have both tanks and sending units replaced and the fuel gauge still doesn't work?

Troubleshoot the problem with the electrical first. It's likely to be a simple fix. Then new sender gaskets are about $1 each.

 

[dave67fd]

Tank replacement is pretty straight forward. Seeing as your truck is in really good condition it maybe worth investigating closer what the problem actually is and where the leak is. That doesn't mean the tank isin't leaking. I would try to use up as much of the fuel as possible, have the tank/s removed and do a thorough inspection. New factory tanks are relatively inexpensive. They can be purchased seperately as well as with a kit that includes the sending unit and all new hardware to mount. The also sell poly tanks to replace the metal ones if you have a concern of future rust.
If the factory tank/s look solid and intact, have them flushed and cleaned as they usually contain some amount of scale and debris internally, replace the sending unit, gasket and maybe the fill/vapor tubes.

 

[Timmy390]

Those $1 sender gaskets go bad because to the ethanol gas JMO. The newer gaskets I'm sure are more resistant then the older ones because the last one I installed has lasted a couple to 3 years now.

I would pull the senders out and verify the floats are good and replace the sender gasket. When I bought my 74, the gauge wasn't working. It was a gummed up sending unit and a bad float.

Tim

 

[hyghlndr]

If you decide to replace, don't bother with a stock rear tank. Instead go with the 23 gallon larger tank. My preference would be to fix the small side tank and use the 23 gallon in back. This way you can't ever run out of fuel by accident. The guages are a "guide" - they are not accurate like the new modern day cars.

 

[tvall]

I just replaced my aux tank with a direct replacement from Toms. It was really straightforward to replace. I'm a newbie and it took me a total of 2 hours from start to finish. Make sure you take pictures of it before you remove it so you can reference those when you put it back together. Also, use gasket putty when you are placing the fuel sending unit back on. The gasket that comes with the new tanks is not enough to hold the fuel.

 

[jim3326]

IMHO, I don't like the seal being below the fuel level. I also didn't like the small tank. I didn't have dual tanks so it was a nice up-grade to get another 6 gallons. So now I can carry only 1 Gerry can and have the same amount of fuel as a stocker with 2 tanks.

You could have the tanks cleaned and sealed, but unless yours was garaged it's whole life and the fuel replaced regularly, there are probably some thin areas where water got in and corroded the inside. When the sending unit is removed it will tell a ton about the condition inside. When I took mine out the screen on the pick-up tube was half rotted away and the wire on the sender had corroded into dust. If there is a line (or several) on the tube, it indicates it sat for an extended time and the fuel evaporated out.

Long story short, personally, I would replace a 40+ year old tank.

Jim W.

 

[70_Steve]

What if you pay to have both tanks and sending units replaced and the fuel gauge still doesn't work?

Troubleshoot the problem with the electrical first. It's likely to be a simple fix. Then new sender gaskets are about $1 each.

I have to agree with Viperwolf1. What you're suggesting is throwing parts at a problem, and you don't even know what the problem is.

I'm curious. Your thread title says you have to farm out all the work on the Bronco. Why is that? My reason for asking is that, in this case at least, the troubleshooting Viperwolf1 is suggesting isn't very complicated and can be done with a minimal investment in test equipment ($5.00 at Harbor Freight for a cheap digital volt meter) and can be done anywhere, like a driveway or parking spot...

 

[Kim]

Steve - You're correct about my throwing parts at the problem rather than troubleshooting properly. :-[ Because my truck is going in to the mechanic for some other minor items, I guess I was just trying to anticipate what he might encounter/need so that I could provide parts and save time. Getting ahead of myself, I suppose.

At the moment, I'm really most concerned with the gas tank leaks (not to much the gas gauges not working) and wanted to see if salvaging them is worth the effort. I don't want all kinds of rusty goop running through my new carb etc.

As for tinkering with the truck myself....I'm a 51 year old female....and while many 51 year old females can and do work on their own cars....I don't. I want to understand the truck, the repairs, etc. but I will never be anything close to a grease monkey.

Asking questions helps me communicate with the mechanic a little more effectively and leaves me a little less in the dark when it comes to suggested repairs.

 

[67RT]

I say get a good rear tank, new sender unit with filter sock, and have the mechanic get the fuel gauge working (it may work with new sender) . If you have original fuel lines replace those as well. My vote is to just empty and leave the aux. tank (don't use it). It sits outside the frame rail right under/behind your seat. If u get a little t bone on drivers side it may be the end.
Mine had an issue with the tank switch for the gauge that I was able to fix. I replaced the sender and pulled and cleaned the tank because it had minimal issues. Still need to replace original fuel lines. All good now.

 

[Rustytruck]

If both gas gauges don't work more than likely the problem isn't in the gas tanks. It could be at the dash switch that switches the sending units or the wiring between the switch and the gas gauge. Or the gas gauge its self. Do the other gauges work? if not it could be the power regulator on the back of the gauge pannel or the ignition switch or even a fuse in the fuse box. To assume its both floats in the 2 gas gauges is a bit naive as you would have to have a double failure. I would test the gauge electrical before cracking the tank and replacing parts you may not need. The simplest test I know is to turn the key to accessory position and remove the the sending unit wire and ground it to the frame. This should make the gauge read over full. Remember you have one gauge, one switch to select which sending unit your checking and 2 sending units. If you gauge doesn't react flip the switch and see you may be on the wrong sending unit. This wont tell you how accurate the gauge is but will tell you whether or not the electrical parts are functional. If you find the gauge reacts then check the spots on the tank where the ground wires hook up make sure they are clean. This is all you may need. If you get no response from the gauge panel then you know your electrical problems are at least in part outside the tank.

 

[No Hay]

The new gaskets can be over tightened very easily, and leak. Tell your mechanic this and you will earn some extra credit (respect) with him or her, when they have to do it twice. Don't ask me how I know!

Ditch the old shtuff, and buy new whenever you can afford it.

My .02