Heim stud fit in knuckle

[Jaywood88]

I had a heim stud shear and I’m looking to replace it. The tapered portion of the stud is longer than the knuckle is thick; the castle nut will bottom out on the tapered portion of the stud before seating on the top of the knuckle (TRU). The stud can move up and down around 1/8” tagging on the castelnut and a proud band where the heim jt starts.

Is that expected? I could put the 50 lb of torque on it but the nut cant go past the start of the tapered section.

 

[DirtDonk]

No, I would not use more torque as the answer. I'd use a thick washer long before doing more tightening.
Are the fittings tight in the holes though? Feel good and not like anything is wallowed out, or anything like that?

What design do these studs take? Could they be BC Broncos studs?
What year is the Bronco?

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Apogee]

As Paul pointed out, the studs need to be properly torqued, but not against themselves, against the mating surface. If that requires a washer or some other provision, then provide that and I would think you should get better results. I'd be worried that the tapered seat in the knuckle has now been damaged and needs to be reamed to be cleaned up, which will cause the stud to seat even deeper into the steering arm of the knuckle. Honestly, it sounds like you have the wrong studs for the knuckles you're running, as there are different tie-rod ends with different diameters for different applications...EB, F150, etc. Is this an EB front knuckle? If so, what year?

 

[FordBronc]

I believe you need to get a (cone spacer) to give your heim the proper full range of motion. Maybe you need to get a shorter heim stud and or get some spacers? I would also be interested to find out why the stud sheered, like did the heim run out of range of motion?

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/psc-rehs.html?gQT=2

Maybe this? https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adju...TMZCjY9ipSZvbTJrI0dJ-7VEKXfWq3-hoCTUEQAvD_BwE

Or...https://www.cseoffroad.com/products/builders-parts/heim-joint-studs

 

[ntsqd]

No need to make it complicated. I had to run heavy washers between the castle nut and the steering arms when I installed the GM 1T TRE based steering linkage on the Wagon (see link in sig). This is a perfectly acceptable thing to do, can stack up to three washers per normal aviation rules. I think that is a good rule to work with in general. Before tightening the nuts check that any shoulder or hex section has an air gap on the other side from the nut. If it does, then torque into place.

 

[Jaywood88]

Folks this is a dated reply to great detailed responses. I’ll blame it on some work travel and the family coming down with the plague but I should have replied sooner.

Here’s the rest of the story:
Yes the part came from BC Broncos and let me tell ya Jason is the man.

Turns out Paul and Apogee were pretty close: the knuckle was wallowed out on drivers side; the stud was not properly seated and a pile of force was exerted on the transition ring between the tapered and non tapered section of the stud. I also suspect to the third comment that the heim joint and knuckle were pressed into each other further stressing the connection.

Jason sent the beefier f150 stud and Amazon sent a 7 degree reamer and I got er reamed and pinned with the new stud. Everying else made up great and I’m back on the road… well until last night when I over heated but that’s for another post lol

Many thanks to you all for the replies.

 

[DirtDonk]

Great result! Thanks for coming around with the update.
We love good news!