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Locking hub question

Minderbinder3

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Jun 26, 2023
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I am new to 4x4 with front locking hubs. I just got my ‘66 and am learning about it and what it needs.

So today I lifted both axles and put it in drive to look for wheel wobble. I put it in 4H without touching the wheel hubs and the front passenger wheel spun strongly and the driver wheel spun weekly.

Is this normal and how do I lock the hubs when needed?
 

Yeller

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there are so many styles of lockouts that have been used over the years some pics would be helpful in an answer to your question. Usually there is “lock” and “free” embossed on the outer part of the hub and a dial in the center with an arrow.

The lock position mechanically engages the hub to the axle shaft, allowing the axle to drive the wheel for 4x4 operation when the transfer case is shifted into 4x4. When the transfer case is in 4x4 and both lockouts are not in the lock position and functioning properly you will not have 4x4. Which it sounds like from the description yours are locked but there is some drag in the brakes or something else causing one side to turn slower, a perfectly normal phenomenon. There is a differential in the gears that allows one side to stop spinning while the other side does. If you have traction on one tire and none on the other the one without traction will spin. The rear axle is the same way. That’s why you see the discussions about limited slips/posi’s and lockers, it’s to control that wheel with no traction spinning.

Hope this helps

Steve
 

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Minderbinder3

Minderbinder3

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Thank you for your response. Here is a picture of my hub. The passenger side was twisted a bit and the driver side was straight which might answer why one spun and one really didn’t.

What is the proper way to have hub for 4x4 because I don’t see any indication?
 

Broncobowsher

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It can also come down to how much grease was packed into the lockout. Too much and it can act as a driving medium.

If you look at the U-joint at the steering knuckle and rotate the tire. Are they solidly connected? or are they free to spin at different speeds? If they are solidly connected, the hub is locked. If they can spin independently of each other the hub is not locked and you are just getting drag through the hub grease causing the spin. The different speeds may be from different levels of brake drag or grease drag, or more than likely just what an open differential does.
 

okie4570

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Someone will be along with information, really need pics with the originals on a 66. As for for shifter positions maybe that too.

@okie4570 ???

That hub in the pic above your post is locked, twist knob in line with the lines on the hub is locked. On a T shift Dana 20 starting closest to the dash it's 4L 2L N 2H 4H although 2L isn't on the knob and it's not good to drive the bronco in 2L
 

Johnnyb

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Flagstaff
Sounds to me like typical behavior for an open differential. What you want to do is, while the vehicle is safely jacked up in the front axle and properly chalked, make sure that the transfer case is disengaged in neutral or 2 high, and then use a long screwdriver to lock the steering knuckle u-joint towards the outside of the axle, one side at a time. After that, engage your hubs and try to rotate the wheel by hand. If the screwdriver locks the steering knuckle and you can't rotate your tire The hub is engaging. If you can still rotate your tire, go get new hubs or rebuild the ones you have.

JB
 

sprdv1

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It can also come down to how much grease was packed into the lockout. Too much and it can act as a driving medium.

If you look at the U-joint at the steering knuckle and rotate the tire. Are they solidly connected? or are they free to spin at different speeds? If they are solidly connected, the hub is locked. If they can spin independently of each other the hub is not locked and you are just getting drag through the hub grease causing the spin. The different speeds may be from different levels of brake drag or grease drag, or more than likely just what an open differential does.

100%....
 
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