Looking for a "new" 351W

[luderchris]

My '69 351W is old and pretty tired. It has a bunch of blow by and is in need of a rebuild, which I do not want to do. From what the PO says, it has ported E7 heads and roller rockers, Crower camshaft and Offy (Offenhauser I think) 4 barrel intake with Edelbrock 600 carb. I have had the truck for a couple of years and even had it partially apart, and I couldn't tell you if that description is 100% accurate. I am fairly ignorant when it comes to engines, so please bear with me. I am learning as I go.

My plan is to buy a newer/rebuilt 351W, transplant all of the stuff from my current engine over and drop it in, and possibly go to fuel injection or other upgrades (not internal) later.

I have found 2 candidates pretty close by--

1) 351W from 1997 ford f-250. 40,000 miles on Jasper rebuild Still in truck. Runs well, can run and drive the truck before current owner removes engine for me. I can take everything from oil pan to computer/wiring. Says he has paperwork from the rebuild.

2)351W from 1991 Box Van. 3,300 miles on rebuilt Jasper from 1 year ago. Not in truck (I don't think -- waiting on reply) and not sure on any paperwork yet from the rebuild. Can have from oil pan to fuel injection and all accessories.

What are your thoughts?

Which would be the better set-up?

I know the computer from the 1997 would be useless (OBD2), but what about everything else?

How about the 1991?

As always, thanks in advance for the great advice!!!

 

[luderchris]

Here is a pic of what is in there now.

 

[mp]

The 1997 should be roller ready, and the 1991 would not if that makes a difference to you. I would probably go with the 1997 between these two, since both are Jasper rebuilds and assuming the prices are comparable.

I would make sure the engine in the 97 has the 97 casting marks since the Jasper replacements may not be from the same year. Same with the 91 box van.

 

[KennyB]

or, Buy a Crate Engine from Ford. http://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/main.asp?target=351

475 hp and 495 torque............. Aluminum Heads....

 

[luderchris]

or, Buy a Crate Engine from Ford. http://www.fordracingparts.com/crateengine/main.asp?target=351

475 hp and 495 torque............. Aluminum Heads....

Not really in my price range.

 

[luderchris]

The 1997 should be roller ready, and the 1991 would not if that makes a difference to you. I would probably go with the 1997 between these two, since both are Jasper rebuilds and assuming the prices are comparable.

I would make sure the engine in the 97 has the 97 casting marks since the Jasper replacements may not be from the same year. Same with the 91 box van.

The prices they are asking are comparable, but I don't know if they are worth it? What are these 2 engines worth? Does it matter that the 91 only has 3k miles and the 97 has 40k miles?

 

[Nightstick]

From your signature description of your rig, you have a pretty built up bronco. If your engine still runs I'd take this opportunity to rebuild an engine yourself. You didn't mention the cost of either of the available motors, but if they're reasonable I'd opt for the 97. If you decide to buy a good, non-rebuilt core and build it yourself you'll be satisfied as well. That was the first project I completed on my rig, and I had little knowledge going into it, but learned a tremendous amount going that direction. I also saved quite a bit of money over what a comparable crate motor with the same parts would have cost me. Just my $.02

 

[luderchris]

From your signature description of your rig, you have a pretty built up bronco. If your engine still runs I'd take this opportunity to rebuild an engine yourself. You didn't mention the cost of either of the available motors, but if they're reasonable I'd opt for the 97. If you decide to buy a good, non-rebuilt core and build it yourself you'll be satisfied as well. That was the first project I completed on my rig, and I had little knowledge going into it, but learned a tremendous amount going that direction. I also saved quite a bit of money over what a comparable crate motor with the same parts would have cost me. Just my $.02

I not only don't have the knowledge to do rebuild an engine, I don't have the time or the cash. I don't really need any more power than a decent 351w will have. I would like to go fuel injected, but I can do that down the road.

Any idea what these motors I described are worth? Any other opinions on why one would be better than the other?

 

[hucklburry rev2]

Of the 2, the one you can run is the one I'd go with, if it runs good. Being able to run it is worth piece of mind.

But if your going to pull your heads and have them gone thru and install on the new engine, with your intake and carb, I would seriously think of pulling your engine and rebuilding it. Your not much farther into it and you know what you have.

 

[luderchris]

I would make sure the engine in the 97 has the 97 casting marks since the Jasper replacements may not be from the same year. Same with the 91 box van.

What would I look for?

 

[Amac70]

you want to look for the f4te casting mark near the starter on the 97. this means it is a roller block. Sounds like the motor you got is going to have a lot more power then either of these.

 

[Nightstick]

When you say "transfer all the stuff" what stuff are you talking about? The heads, cam, rockers? You won't be that far from doing a full rebuild anyway. If you current motor hasn't been rebuilt, just built up you might as well stick with that one. A rebuild kit is about $300 give or take and if youre gonna throw all the same parts back in it (except the pistons) there's no need to get a whole new motor. Are there advantages to going to a roller? Yes, but there's not significant enough to warrant scraping a motor you already have to basically get the same one afterward.

If it's not your DD and it can sit for a little bit, pull a head off and see if it has overbore. If it doesn't you can use that block.

 

[Nightstick]

I paid $350 for an E7 351w that I was told ran, but didn't verify that before i tore it apart. Even then, I probably wouldn't give more than $500-600 for a factory motor.

Don't get the impression I'm trying to badger you into rebuilding your motor, I'm just providing information like people did for me when I was making the same decision. The issue I have with dropping in a motor that has been rebuilt by someone else is that you never fully know what you're getting. It could last you 100,000 miles, or it could last you 100 miles... Ya never know.

Like I already mentioned my knowledge of motors was limited at best when I embarked on the journey of doing it myself, but with a LOT of help from the CB crew I was able to build a nice motor. Mine was a little more complicated than what you're after, but that would only make it easier. I'd consider it an opportunity to learn how these things work, and you'll have a sense of satisfaction when you're done. If you don't have the time that's one thing, but the cost doesnt have to be that high, especially if you have most of the parts on hand. Good Luck!

 

[beaux312]

what are they asking for the engines

 

[luderchris]

Sounds like the motor you got is going to have a lot more power then either of these.

Why do you say that?

 

[luderchris]

When you say "transfer all the stuff" what stuff are you talking about?

I just meant the minimum. Could I just swap the carb or intake/carb from my current engine over to either of these engines and drop it into my Bronco? I can't just drop either of these engines in as they are because they are fuel injected, so what would I need to transfer over?

 

[luderchris]

what are they asking for the engines

$750 for the 1991 with 3k miles

$600 for the 1997 with 40k miles

 

[Amac70]

600 or 700 for a used motor is to much, 500 max if you can here it run or know the person personally. i say you will have less power because you are most likely going to a lower compression stock engine. The one you have has a cam and head work done already. and if they went that far it probably has a higher compression piston also. (just guessing) And yes you can just drop your carb and intake on either of these and be fine also need to swap over the front dress most likely. The timing chain cover won't have a spot for fuel pump. Unless you go electric fuel pump no worry. Don't know if the serpentine stuff will work or not. The van is probably more likely to work then the truck stuff.

 

[techlaf]

Something else to think about on your current engine: If you don't how/when/if it was rebuilt, it could already have been bored too much and not worth boring again. Won't know until you pull it though.

 

[Nightstick]

Given the specs on your rig, you might be a little disappointed putting a factory spec cam'd motor in your rig. With that much lift, tire size, and I'm assuming axle ratio it's gonna need a good amount of low end torque. I suspect the cam that's currently in your motor has that which is why you like it. Hard to say without knowing the specs on it though.

Assuming you've read the information on an EFI swap, some of those parts will work, but not all. The truck intake is pretty tall, and can be used, but there's better (but more expensive) options out there. If you're planning on carbing it first i'd stick with that plan, and save up for the better EFI stuff. Don't just get rid of the stuff that comes with it though.