Low oil pressure -- Pulled the oil pan...HELP.

[luderchris]

Update!!!!

Well -- couple updates.

I just realized that the pump that was on my truck is a HV pump. It says HV right on it.

I also pulled the cap off of the rear main bearing. It is nice and smooth -- but almost 100% copper colored.(see pics) I have not pulled any more of the bearings. It looks like "normal" wear. It leads me to believe that the PO didn't really have this engine rebuilt 15k miles ago.

I am going to pull out the front bearing in a few minutes and maybe the others to see what they look like. I also want to peak at the crank to see if it is scored at all.

I don't have the time or money to pull the engine and do a rebuild.

What are my options right now? Can the Main and Rod bearings be changed with the engine and tranny still in the truck?

Please let me know your thoughts on the bearing pics too.

Thanks.

 

[oleguy74]

they are done!!!!!!!copper is not bearing surface.the gray you see in pics is what needs to be .that is the bearing metal.they are shot.see pic #2,the gray on the ends is bearing metal,not copper.

 

[bax]

I would call that worn out.

 

[luderchris]

OK. I kinda figured that. My real question is what can I do next since I don't want to pull the engine?

I checked all of the Main bearings and they all look the same -- nice and smooth and copper. The Crankshaft itself looks good -- no grooves, shiny silver, etc.

My plan is to pull a rod bearing or 2 to check them out too.

Is it feasible to replace the main and rod bearings without removing the engine? I do not have the time nor the $$$ for a rebuild rightt now. I would like to hold off a few years for a stroker.

Let me know what you think.

 

[oleguy74]

you better pull it out.with the bearings that far gone,and you drive it ,you will take out cam bearings.basicly you are done for.you have copper/bearing metal all through your engine

 

[bax]

Just run it till ig goes. put the HV pump back in and run a straight 50 weight oil. It could last another year or two, or just a few months. Dont throw money at it.

 

[jtyler4570]

Just run it till ig goes. put the HV pump back in and run a straight 50 weight oil. It could last another year or two, or just a few months. Dont throw money at it.

I agree just put everything back and run it. Basically you know the PO lied and she has some miles on it. Run her till she quits, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Put some 30wt in it and run it.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Do bearing inserts have the undersize marked on them? If you know what they are and the journals look good what would be wrong with putting in a new set. If they plastigage good, why not risk it? I've replaced rod bearings without pulling the crank.

 

[Viperwolf1]

It can be done but it would be sketchy. You would have to loosen all the main caps a little to let the crank drop down slightly. The thrust bearing would be a bear to change like that. Rod bearings would be easy. If it absolutely needs to run a couple more years just bite the bullet, pull the engine out and swap the bearings. You could probably do that quicker than fighting an upside down battle with it.

 

[RIbronco]

You should be able to change the rod bearings without much issue. Just do one at a time to keep things simple. The mains can probably be changed one at a time by removing a cap and rotating the block side bearing out of the casting. To install new ones, the crankshaft will need to be lowered a bit to get the new bearing shell in without damaging the bearing surface.
The potential of damaging the crankshaft is very high while trying to do this, especially while the engine is still installed in a vehicle. I would only try this if I was 100% ready to pull the engine and rebuild if something went wrong.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've done a complete ring and bearing job "in chassis" with success. That's the reason these old motors were made with split rear seals. Back in the day, cars were made to be repaired, and people had more time than money.

 

[luderchris]

I believe the bearings have the marking .020 on them. I am assuming that is the undersize?

So it sounds like I can replace the main and rod bearings while in the truck. Am I correct that there is no way to check or replace the cam bearings?

 

[bax]

yes you can change the bearings with the motor installed. My point on just running it is this:
Don't think that because the crank looks all shiny and smooth that it is good to go.
If the lower end is worn, do you think the other parts are good? Rings, bore, cam bearings, cam, lifters, chain, head assemblies.
If the motor is worn out it's not just the bearings. My point is don't throw money at a temp fix. band-aid one thing and then another part lets you down. I still say run it till she is dead. With a HV pump and thick oil you may get another 20 K miles out of it.

 

[bax]

I believe the bearings have the marking .020 on them. I am assuming that is the undersize?

So it sounds like I can replace the main and rod bearings while in the truck. Am I correct that there is no way to check or replace the cam bearings?

Take the grill off and you can change the cam and cam bearings. Were getting kinda silly now.

 

[Mark]

Why put anything into it that's not even a temporary fix, when something (maybe everything) else is questionable? To me that's just a waste of time and money.
Egad, I'd hate driving a vehicle that I knew was on a countdown to failure. Your stroker plans have just jumped up on the priority list.
MHO. 2 cents worth maybe.

 

[luderchris]

Well -- Looks like I never updated this thread. I will now.

SO FAR -- (performed at the end of March)

My in chassis main and rod bearing replacement has been an overwhelming success. I also replaced the HV oil pump with a standard oil pump. I am running 20w50 oil with Lucus oil stabilizer.

When the engine is fully warmed -- My oil pressure went from 5 lbs at idle and 25 lbs (at most), with very slow response (pressure slow to raise as revs increased) to 17 lbs at idle going to as high as 50 lbs with higher rpms. The pressure raise is also immediate when revs increase. Remember, this is also "dropping" to a standard pump.

Again, SO FAR -- (don't want to jinx myself) -- I am very pleased with the results. I have put a few hundred miles and 2 hard trail rides on it since I did the work.

I wanted to update this thread to let people know that this can be done and with good results. I will continue to update this thread with comments as to the longer term effects.

Thanks to everyone for your comments and help. ClassicBroncos is the best Automotive Enthusiast websites I have frequented, and I have frequented quite a few over the past 10 or so years.

I continue to learn a bunch about my truck as keep repairing and installing and asking more questions here.

 

[luderchris]

Already need to add something that I forgot to mention.

I did replace the pan, pan gasket, and rear main during this whole process as well. What I should have also done, as my father said (35 years old you would think I would learn to yield my Dad's warning), is replace the front main seal. I believe the pressure from pulling the crank down to replace the bearings warped the front main seal. It now leaks pretty bad. I will be replacing it in the near future. For now, my undercarriage gets a nice slick coating of 20w50.

To be fair, my Dad also said chances were slim that I would have any better oil pressure after changing the bearings. At least I scored one there.

 

[luderchris]

Just looking back to some of my old threads I thought I would update this one.

The engine is still plugging away a couple thousand miles and many hours of trail rides / rock crawling and 1 1/2 years later. The oil pressure when fully warmed up is about 10-15 and rises nicely with revs.

I am getting a good bit of blow-by from the rings being worn, but I have been able to keep the side effects of that to a minimum.

The ultimate plan is to replace this motor with a 5.0 or 5.8 L fuel injected engine. I am glad I patched it up when I did though. It is giving me some time to save up for a replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Justafordguy]

Sounds like this has worked out better than anyone thought. I'm glad it has held together for you. I have patched worn out ford small blocks many times and they always surprise me how long they last. If you wait until it dies you may never get your new engine.;D

 

[Broncoman]

Btw to make your life easier or someone elses.....Use a cotter pin to make the bearing tool below. Bend the open ends like shown. Then put the closed end in the oil hole in the crank. If you use the correct size you can rotate the engine and the tool will push the bearing right out. Turn the crank so that you are pushing on the side of the bearing without the tab. Then slide the new bearing in.