Lower ball joint wet/leak

[Juiceman]

Maybe a stupid question because I can't find any leaks near the brakes or above the ball joints. My passenger side lower ball joint seems to be always wet/leaking. It seems like oil - doesn't seem greasy. As you can see by the picture there is some discoloration. Doesn't look/feel like brake fluid and the reservoir is full. Will the grease in the fitting eventually brake down and leak like oil?

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, it might be rear end fluid from the outer axle seal. Good luck

 

[SHX669]

More than likely the inner axle seal is leaking .
Mines been leaking for 5-6 years now . It's kind of a pain to fix.

 

[jtboarder]

Yup inner axle seal. Pull the tires off, brakes, hub, spindle, shaft. Then open diff, pull out the carrier and youll have access to the seals. Back in reverse order.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[garberz]

Hi, it might be rear end fluid from the outer axle seal. Good luck

Highly doubtful it's rear end fluid, Ha, ha. ;D But yes, it looks like the axle seal is weeping a bit. Unfortunately that's a big job to change those seals out. Drain the diff, pull the axles out, remove the carrier. One of those jobs that's $25 in parts, $300 in labor, if you have it done. Plan on the better part of a weekend if you do it yourself.

Mark

 

[Pa PITT]

.. I too thought when I SAW IT... IT THE inner seal leaking.. Now I'm like the others .. 25.00 in parts an if your Handy with Duck TAPE. YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO DO IT IN A WEEKEND.
... So either park on a sheet of cardboard or Just let it leak.

 

[ransil]

Highly doubtful it's rear end fluid, Ha, ha. ;D

Mark

in the north east they ( i don't) call front axles "front rear ends " ;D

 

[74fiberglass]

In NEPA we call em front rears....

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, technically speaking they are in fact "rear ends" that have just been re-purposed for use in the front of a 4wd vehicle.
The Dana differentials (low pinion versions) were originally designed used in the rear of vehicles. Which is why they're riding on the coast side of the gears when used in the front.
The high-pinion versions are front-specific to fix that.

Just sayin...

Paul

 

[Billsboat]

.I've been thinking about doing this repair, but it would be nice to have a step by step written up by some of the more skilled among us...with photos as well of course

I did not see on in the tech article area...or did I miss it?

 

[Juiceman]

.I've been thinking about doing this repair, but it would be nice to have a step by step written up by some of the more skilled among us...with photos as well of course

I did not see on in the tech article area...or did I miss it?

Completely agree. Sounds like an inexpensive fix, but time and effort. I would be curious to see how complicated.

 

[DirtDonk]

Likely haven't seen much on them because all the books (that you should have if you're working on an old truck) already run through the full process with torque values and everything.

There are some YouTube videos too I'm pretty sure. Here again though, you're subject to inconsistencies in the trucks (remember: every Bronco is different), inconsistencies in the knowledge and ability of the installer/videographer (did they read the instructions, or are going by what uncle Bob said 10 years ago on the side of the road with a broken joint), and inconsistencies in modern parts that we never had to worry about in the past (read: crap, both foreign and domestic).
For instance, lately there have been a TON of ball-joint installs where the upper collar/adjusting sleeve doesn't torque down properly until it's extending half-way through the upper yoke! Never saw that on an original or original replacement 30 years ago. But now it seems all too common.
Not sure how it's actually a bad thing to have half the threads showing, but it's not "normal" so it brings up other questions during the install that make you scratch your head and wonder if you're doing something wrong.

But you're right. We should have a tech article with good clear images, descriptions and some video to cover all the possibilities.
Be well worth it.

So get right on it hoss!;D

Paul

 

[B RON CO]

My step by step guide, with pictures and exploded diagrams was written by Chilton, and well worth the money. It is packed with good info beyond just repair and replace. I haven't seen any of it on disc in person, but I do like to have my book at my greasy fingertips when I'm out in the driveway. Good luck

 

[72Sport]

I had made tool made to "press" the seals in mine. It has been too long since I used it to remember how it worked. All I can remember is there was no room to hammer the seals in. It worked fine. The seals have not leaked in at least 10 years.

The first picture is the seal and the abs pipe cap used to press the seal in the housing. The second picture is the tool with the abs cap on the left end. The right end of tool goes against the housing and must fit in a recess to keep it lined up, probably the recess for bearing race.

There is a nut welded on the left side of the big end so you have something to keep it from turning while you press the seal in the opposite side of the housing.

 

[DirtDonk]

That's a pretty cool tool there 72. And the proof is in the (lack of) leaking after all these years.

Paul