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LUBER Tires, Speedo Gear, & Camber

Killer Frogs

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
317
Loc.
Amarillo, TX
73 Bronco with 1” body lift and 2.5 suspension lift. I need new tires and wanting to go a little taller. Current tires are 235/75/15. From other threads I’ve read I’m leaning toward 33/10.5/15. Any other suggestions?

I know I will need to change my speedometer gear with the bigger tires, how do you figure the right gear?

Also, the inside of my front tires wear much fast than the inside, haw can I adjust the camber on my wheels?

Thanks
 

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,351
73 Bronco with 1” body lift and 2.5 suspension lift. I need new tires and wanting to go a little taller. Current tires are 235/75/15. From other threads I’ve read I’m leaning toward 33/10.5/15. Any other suggestions?

I think a lot of members have done that size successfully. But keep in mind that some of that success was achieved through moving the rear axle back an inch or so.
In other words, they don't always just "fit" in the back without some additional work.

I know I will need to change my speedometer gear with the bigger tires, how do you figure the right gear?

I believe that there are now some good charts that will get you close. But assuming you have it back on the road with the new tires, you either use a GPS device of some kind (smart-phone app most likely?) or a pace vehicle with a known good speedometer to shadow you and compare speeds.
There might be some variation on accuracy if you let the pace car set the speed at 60mph and you see what your speedo is reading, OR you run your rig up to an indicated 60mph and then ask what the reading was on the other vehicles gauge.

Whatever the difference in percent, that's the change in size (smaller) you need with the new gear. Your speedometer will read slow with larger tires, and to compensate you need a smaller diameter gear on your cable. The "driven" gear.

If your speedometer reads 60mph when you are in fact traveling at 66mph, you're roughly 9-10% off. If you currently have a 21t gear, you would use a 19t gear to correct.
Of course, it's not always that simple. If you are already running with a 16t, or even a 17t gear, you can't go low enough to perfectly compensate since 16t is the smallest driven gear available for the stock setup.
At that point, you might be able to find a different drive-gear. There were two sizes commonly available for the Dana 20 transfer case. You will have to remove your speedo cable to see what driven gear you have, and may be able to count the teeth on the drive gear through the hole to see which one you have. Maybe...
If you have the smaller one, you could go to the larger one to bring the speed up some at the speedometer. If you already have the large one though, you're out of luck and would have to do something else to compensate.

Also, the outside of my front tires wear much faster than the inside, how can I adjust the camber on my wheels?

Assumed you meant to say "outside" above where I corrected in RED?
If not let us know, but if so, then it could be just camber, OR a combination of camber and toe-in.
But the standard specification of 1 to 2 degrees positive camber does usually lead to excessive wear on the outside of the tires. For some reason, especially the passenger side on our rigs. Maybe there's just more camber on the right, with the cross-camber settings?

Your '73 should have a Dana 44 front end. The two methods to adjust camber are either spindle shims (tapered rings sandwiched between spindle and knuckle) or ball-joint eccentric collars.
Both are available in different increments with 1.5° correction being the max for either.

You would do well to get a readout of your current settings (if you don't have one already?) before deciding what to do though. Getting it on an alignment rack and a full printout will let you know what's going to be needed.
And it's just good stuff to know anyway.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,351
Oh, and in the meantime it's good practice to rotate the tires more often on a Bronco. As long as your rear end is in good alignment (not bent up) the rear tires last half of forever sometimes. So getting the front ones to the back now and then can really extend their lives. Especially while you're waiting to make any changes to the alignment.

Specs for your rig are (in general):
Caster is 2.5 to 4 degrees positive.
Camber is 1 to 2 degrees positive.
Toe-in is 1/16 to 1/4 inch in.

Optimal settings with modern tires however, seem to be more along the lines of 4 to 8 degrees caster, 1/4 to 1/2 degree positive camber, and about the expected 1/8" toe-in.

Good luck.

Paul
 

rguest3

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
3,780
A 265/70/17 is a great fit for a Bronco with 2 1/2" +1 lift.

17x8" Wheel with 4.5" Back spacing is recommended too.

The 33/10.50/15 should also fit with similar wheel specs in a 15x8" with 4-4.5" Back spacing. With fewer 15" wheel options, these will be harder to find than the 17s.
 

FordFarmer

Full Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Messages
308
Oh, and in the meantime it's good practice to rotate the tires more often on a Bronco. As long as your rear end is in good alignment (not bent up) the rear tires last half of forever sometimes. So getting the front ones to the back now and then can really extend their lives. Especially while you're waiting to make any changes to the alignment.

Specs for your rig are (in general):
Caster is 2.5 to 4 degrees positive.
Camber is 1 to 2 degrees positive.
Toe-in is 1/16 to 1/4 inch in.

Optimal settings with modern tires however, seem to be more along the lines of 4 to 8 degrees caster, 1/4 to 1/2 degree positive camber, and about the expected 1/8" toe-in.

Good luck.

Paul

Hey Paul,

Do those specs change with regard to manual or power steering? My ‘71 on stock suspension and manual steering has the same issue with the outside of the front tires. I haven’t sought out a fix though because the old girl drives so nice. Tracks straight and doesn’t dart with changing road conditions (ruts, rr tracks, potholes etc). Easy do drive with a couple fingers.....I’m afraid to mess with well enough.

Cheers,

Mark
 

DirtDonk

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Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,351
My '71 is the same way. Steers sweet and tracks true at any speed. Wears out the right front quicker than the rest. But with only 2 degrees or less of caster, it surprises most people.
And no, the specs did not change in the early years because they did not even have power steering until '73, and I did not see a recommended change other than you could get away with the higher numbers in the 4 degree range. At that point, a manual steering truck was getting notably harder to steer even with smaller tires.
And since manual steering was still standard (power was an option) I bet that's why they kept the same specs.

At different times over the years I did see minor variations in different books and on different alignment rack's computers when I was able to get a printout. But even still, the maximum was still in the 4.5 range until about '75 or '76 or so, when I started seeing readings in the 6 degree range. Probably as a nod to power steering being more prevalent than manual. But I would not want to own an EB with manual steering and 6 degrees of caster I don't think!

The main reference books that were not put out by Ford (Chilton's and Hayne's mainly) always kept the one range through all the years to '77 though. Not showing any of those minor variations I'd seen in other references.

It wasn't until the Bronco became the same as the full-size trucks in '78 that you saw Bronco references in the 8 degree range.
Unfortunately the Haynes people decided we didn't need to know the specifications for any of the trucks so I can't compare the older full-size specs. Their excuse for that missing info? Basically "Since none of them are user adjustable, you don't need to know." was what they used to justify not even printing them!

You'd have to go to a Ford book then for that I guess. And the Ford books for the individual years may have that info as well. Those would highlight any variations over the years.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,351
To your wear though, I would look at your camber even though it steers so nice.
If you're over the minimum of 1 degree positive, you're going to see excess wear with modern tires. Especially if they're wider than the originals (which isn't hard to do!).

If you can get the camber down into the 1/2 degree range, it should still drive nice and should also reduce the wear on the outside.
The camber when coupled with the toe-in will always put more potential force on the outside of the front tires. The dynamic forces while driving may actually reduce those numbers with some setups, but not sure how that effects Broncos precisely.
But giving the static settings a little tweak can reduce the wear, even if it does not eliminate it.

My '68 is within spec and drives pretty good. But it wears the crap outta' the front mud-terrains!
So I figure someday I'll play with that too. Since it's not a daily driver, it's not really an emergency for me either.

Paul
 

FordFarmer

Full Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Messages
308
Thanks for the insight Paul. My tires are 15 x 30 x 9.5, so not that much bigger than stock. My Marti report says "9.15x15-4". I'll get'r up on a rack in the near future and see what I have. The way it drives now I'm tempted to just accept the abnormal wear and have a good excuse to go tire shopping more often....

Killer Frogs, sorry for the piggy back and good luck with the tweaks!
 
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