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Major problem, Need help !!!!!! (long)

TJGuidry

Full Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2001
Messages
224
Loc.
Parks, Louisiana
As I was coming back from work this morning. I was going 60 mph at 3000 rpm. Since I was on the road<br>by myself was speeding up to about 75 mph. At about 65 mph my bronco was struggling to go any<br>faster. I put it to the floor and it started to sputter. So while I was rolling I slipped it into neutral and reved<br>it up to about 5000 rpm and it went right up there. Dropped it to drive and still had the same problems<br>as before but this time it sputtered back fired then died and I could not get it started. <br> The first thing I checked was to make sure that the clear fuel filter had fuel in it and it did. After I got it <br>home I pulled the # 1 plug to check for fire and got none. I pulled the dist cap off and noticed some <br>corrosion on the post. Changed both cap and rotor still nothing.<br> My bronco came with a ignition module from CRANE but the distributor looks to be some sort of generic<br>brand. There are no pionts and condenser. My coil is a MSD Blaster 2. I really need a wiring diagram<br>for the ignition system and my manual does not have one. Sorry its so long. I'll be back checking up<br>on responses because I'm working on it right now.<br><br> Tucker
 

Explore74

Full Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2002
Messages
152
Loc.
Lubbock, TX
it requires far more current to arc across an air fuel mixture under compression load than it does under compression no load. I assume that the ignition is a capacitive discharge type. When the circuitry starts to break down in the box, you can get a back feed from the control side of the coil into the transistor set of the control unit. It's hard to say what caused the problem, the coil, or the control unit(which came first the chicken or the egg). The reason for no points or cond. is that the dist. has either a magnetic pickup and a reluctor wheel, or an infrared emitter and receiver. In either case, although anything can fail, problems are few and far between. I would suggest calling Crane to get the proper diagram. Usually it is a simple hookup. Every book I have ever read says that you can check resistance across the primary and secondary windings on your coil and if each has cont. by themselves but not to each other, then the coil is probably good. But in the real world that is not always the case. I would go to the wrecking yard and get a setup off a later non-computer 302. They're about bulletproof. Good luck on your troubleshooting.
 

2badrotties

Just a Bronco guy !
Joined
Sep 10, 2002
Messages
6,854
Loc.
Niskayuna N.Y.
I would pull some more of the plugs out. Make sure it didn't run lean and burn the end off a plug and damage a couple of others. My Bronco has done the same thing to me ( twice ). I don't know why it runs out of fuel but it does. I never really worried about it because I knew it only had to last untill winter got here and then I would be redoing the entire truck. If it gradually lost power and then popped, then ran like shoot, I'd check more plugs. Hope this helped
 
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TJGuidry

Full Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2001
Messages
224
Loc.
Parks, Louisiana
I was removing the rest of the plugs while ya'll were answering and all the plugs look good. I have a friend <br>who is a mechanic and he wiil come and check my timing tommorrow. I don't have a timing light, yet.<br>I figure that I ought to check that first. That may not have anything to do with it but it doesn' cost anything<br>to do that. Thanks for the info.
 

BwoncoHowie

C-4 Wizard
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
3,571
Hey TJ,<br>What did you find out? :eek: Do you have Spark going to the plugs? Did you ever solve that cranking problem you had a while back?<br><br>BH
 
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TJGuidry

Full Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2001
Messages
224
Loc.
Parks, Louisiana
Hey Broncohowie, <br> <br> I had a friend come and give it a once over. He is a certified mechanic so I trust him. He said that I'm<br>getting no fire. So we checked everything electrical. He said that the problem is the after market ignition<br>module. It is a CRANE module I'm not sure of the model. I'm thinking of replacing it with an MSD but <br>those things are expensive. I wonder what would be a good but less expensive way to fix this. My wife<br>already said that I could spend the money and get the MSD Series 6-Offroad. What do you or anyone<br>else that maybe reading this think ?<br> As for as the clicking sound when trying to start. I changed the fuse link and so far no problem. Thanksfor asking.
 
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TJGuidry

Full Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2001
Messages
224
Loc.
Parks, Louisiana
Thanks for the quick replies. Any particular model / year that I should look for ? Anyone want to help ?<br> I'll cook the Gumbo. ( LOL )
 

BwoncoHowie

C-4 Wizard
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
3,571
I went with Duraspark from pick-n-pull too.<br>I had to yank at least 4 dists. until I found one that had a nice gear on it. 75 to 81 was what I was looking for to go in my '73. The ones with 2-piece caps I have heard are better. I ended up with a 81 and it works sweet, didn't have to do anything except clean and lube it, and install new flyweight bushings.<br><br>How about your cranking problem you had a while back?<br>What did you do to fix it?<br><br>BH
 
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TJGuidry

Full Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2001
Messages
224
Loc.
Parks, Louisiana
If you are talking about the clicking noise coming from the relay, yes I changed the fuse link wire that went from the harnessto the hot side of the relay. I have not had trouble until now but it is not related ( I hope )
 
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