Marine clean and Por15, do I have to on a sand blasted frame?

[73azbronco]

Getting ready to finish coat a frame, just sand blasted, looks great. Spotless, as in spotless and we use gloves so no greasy oily fingerprints on it.

Wanted to use Por15, no problem, easy to find.

Noted it wants metal ready to etch metal prior to Por15. No problem, easy to find.

Metal ready says clean fresh blasted metal with Marine clean prior to etch.

Problem, two week delivery time. I have a paint reservation Tuesday heck or hi water.

If I can't find Marine Clean by tomorrow morning, I'm going to change up and go etch primer and standard frame paint.

I used Por fuel tank restorer and was impressed how well it worked, it came with marine clean.

Anyone have thoughts on using another cleaner prior to etch? por product states Marine clean specifically designed to work with metal ready/por ( of course it is...) and anything else will leave a trace of residue causing paint issues.

Ideas or I'm going to use regular paint? Thanks for quick help folks.

 

[Naughty Bronc]

Try any automotive paint supply store. They should cary all the por-15 products.

 

[BigToe]

I used mineral spirits and have seen no ill effects. Anything that evaporates quickly would probably do the trick.

 

[nvrstuk]

Even my local Napa store is carrying it now...

 

[73azbronco]

Ill try NAPA, two local paint stores says for whatever reason this stuff is hard to get this week.

Mineral spirits is specifically mentioned as a no no with por.

I've got two other old school paint shops to try in the AM, hope I hope.

For you POR people, how long should you wait to spray a topcoat UV protectant after the POR is shot? Any special brand?

 

[Tyla's toy]

Por comes with so many mixed feelings. I talked to a couple resroration shops. The feeling was an epoxy primer withe a urethane topcoat is much more resilient. Which is fine by me because the por needs a topcoat anyway so step saving. Best of luck!

 

[ransil]

POR = Paint Over Rust if its clean meta use real paint..

 

[tinytim02]

I've had great success using POR-15 on sandblasted metal. I always use the marine clean and the metal ready. For the topcoat, I always wait until the POR is tacky then spray my topcoat. If you wait until the POR fully cures, you must scuff it before applying the topcoat.

 

[broncosbybart]

Marine clean is a water based cleaner. It isn't super special IMHO. Any good paint supply house should have a waterbourne wax/grease remover. If all else fails, use some diluted purple power and then rinse off and dry with a blow gun. I wouldn't use a solvent or thinner to clean/prep it.

That said, a high quality epoxy primer and top coat is hard to beat. I haven't used POR in years.

 

[Tyla's toy]

Marine clean is a water based cleaner. It isn't super special IMHO. Any good paint supply house should have a waterbourne wax/grease remover. If all else fails, use some diluted purple power and then rinse off and dry with a blow gun. I wouldn't use a solvent or thinner to clean/prep it.

That said, a high quality epoxy primer and top coat is hard to beat. I haven't used POR in years.

In my quest the last part is what I'm hearing the most.

 

[needabronco]

The paint supply in Prescott has it on the shelf 99% of the time. I'm sure your local store does too.

 

[Tuck]

If you use the POR system as advertised, you'll be spraying water on bare metal & your frame will flash rush & for a second, you will cry. POR is designed to stick to rust better than bare metal, so that's ok going that route. I haven't had any issues with the things I've coated with POR here in Florida, but I did all of the prep steps. If you use it & don't get a topcoat in before it cures, they also make a tie-in primer. Of course that's even more steps & more money.

 

[John Marinan]

Phosphoric acid, available at Home Depot for about $8. a gallon. I think it may have another name on it like rust remover, or rust neutralizer. It will etch the metal and leave a coating that is perfect for the primer to bond to. I've used it for years with no problems.

 

[73azbronco]

Found a few quarts of marine clean 40 miles away.

So bottom line, I have a freshly sand blasted clean frame that had zero rust before it started sand blasting.

Por has a great sales job touting their rust preventing paint, much better than regular paint.

I am not seeing how Por is any better than a good etch primer and epoxy finish coat. And with the steps required to get Por to work (marine clean $40, Metal ready etch $40, por 15 $100, and top clear UV coat $40, plus delay and time between each coat) is any better than a good solid paint job using etch primer and epoxy paint?

Now, I can see if your restoring a rusted item, or an item which will see heavy moisture/mud, sure, maybe Por is better.

I did refinish a fuel tank inside and out using their system, and the metal did not flash rust between steps.

Besides this is Az, my cactus out front looks thirsty...

Thoughts?

 

[73azbronco]

Last deciding factor, how long did you Por folks wait between por15 coat and any UV clear topcoat?

Por is closed today, not open till after I need an answer.

I'm just worried the paint shop that will be doing this has not done por15 per se, although the owner did do his frame with it years ago, the kid shooting this knows zip about this stuff, I get a feeling I'd be better going old school etch prime, old school epoxy paint for a better result.

 

[dave67fd]

I researched the same issue. My frame was sandblasted and etch primed as well but i have cleared several areas to repair or weld on additional items and use the weld primmer in those areas.

I am using Eastwoods Extreeme chassis black primer and Extreeme chassis satin black top coat.

Don't need the POR15. Scuff the etch primer before applying. You could probably just use the top coat. Buy one can and try to see if it meets your needs.

I'm also using the Pre-prep cleaner. They also sell the marine clean.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pre-painting-prep.html

 

[u10072]

The steps are the reason I go with rust bullet. I personally think there is just zero reasons to use the por15 in AZ unless there is rust issues-- which you simply don't have or won't have in the future. Just it's the good etching primer and topcoat. Here is a tip... Before you paint/prime put a small stick on disk on one of the body mounts and leave the part under the disk bare metal. If you ever need to weld on the frame you have a perfect place to ground to. Same goes for the body-- tiny smear of Vaseline keeps the flash away. Been a lifesaver for me.

 

[Tyla's toy]

Last deciding factor, how long did you Por folks wait between por15 coat and any UV clear topcoat?

Por is closed today, not open till after I need an answer.

I'm just worried the paint shop that will be doing this has not done por15 per se, although the owner did do his frame with it years ago, the kid shooting this knows zip about this stuff, I get a feeling I'd be better going old school etch prime, old school epoxy paint for a better result.

That's exactly where I got to. Same reasons.

 

[73azbronco]

Decision made, after talking with painter, I'm going with letting painter do it. He is going to etch with his brand of etch, then etch prime then quality single stage final coat, done deal.

While the Por product is a very good product, the steps required and my timeframe prevent me from going that route.

Thanks for input folks.

 

[John Marinan]

I'm sure you have an industrial paint supplier in your area, if not look online. You can buy paint for ships, water towers, bridges, and factories that will last for 100 years. It's expensive but it is the best made paint period. Marine clean is not really a very good product. It's ok, but phosphoric is much stronger and leaves a rust preventing coat behind.
The active ingredient in Marine Clean, potassium hydroxide, is also known as lye. Pretty simple to duplicate if you're of a mind to.