Modified Cowl

[Jeff10]

Hey Guys and Gals,

I'm looking for some advice concerning the cowl on a '70.

The PO installed a cowl that is essentially a horizontal piece of sheet metal that runs the width of the tub. (I was hoping to have pictures from the painter by now; but, I don't. I will post them when I do.)

The cowl should really look like this:

http://broncograveyard.com/images/catalog/14146C.JPG

The two major differences are sloped surface on the passenger side (where the air inlet box sits and the vent opening on the driver's side.

I'm curious if anyone else has fabricated a cowl similar to this, and if so, what the thinking is behind it. I haven't looked at it closely; but, the heater core that was provided with this project is not stock. I'm wondering if that has something to do with it.

We have several choices: 1.) Leave it alone, 2.) Rework the existing panel to look/function similar to stock, or 3.) Purchase a new cowl panel to replace the existing. Replacing the cowl will probably be $500+, so I only want to go that route if it's really necessary.

Thanks for any help you'all can provide.

Jeff

 

[dave67fd]

I think it all depends on what YOU want. Does the fabbed cowl look like crap? Do you wan't the look of originality?

The PO probably fabbed because he either could and looked ok to him and didn't care and/or didn't want to pay for a new cowl.

Trying to figure out what the PO was thinking is not an issue, It's your choice on were you want to go from here.

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the reply.

I probably should have worded my post a little differently.

With the present cowl setup, there are no provisions for ventilation (either for the box that supplies the fan/heater core, or on the driver side.

I can probably with the form of the present cowl... I'm just not sure how to compensate for the lack of ventilation provisions.

Thanks again.

Jeff

 

[bronconut73]

Removing the sloped pass. side makes a lot of room to tuck an a/c system and OEM engine computer under the dash there.

 

[Jeff10]

Hey,

Removing the sloped pass. side makes a lot of room to tuck an a/c system and OEM engine computer under the dash there.

Thanks for the thought. Have you run across this setup before? I saw some pics of non-stock cowls when I was searching this morning; but, I'm not sure they were designed to be that way as much as they were fixes.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[Crush]

a lot of folks don't use the fresh air inlets due to water leaking in. I have sen lots of heaters without the hose that connects it to the kick panel. My understanding is that the heater works better without the fresh air because it reheats internal air, much like the recirc button on newer cars/trucks. However the defroster works worse because there is no inlet air coming into the system. Some people have said that if they crack a window that solves the defroster problem

 

[js521]

I removed my fresh air inlets long ago, and covered the holes. I also run a soft top without doors or windows most of the time so have lots of air lol. My heater pulls from inside when I use it and works really well.

 

[Jeff10]

Hey Crush and js521,

Thanks!

I'm still torn between keeping it as-is and going back to stock; but, you've made it clear that the functionality is still there, regardless.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[sp71eb]

I deleted mine on my rig. As stated before it allowed me to tuck my a/c box higher under the dash and also I don't have vents in my hood so the cold air box would not work with my setup. Check out post #63 on my build

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221082&page=5

 

[DirtDonk]

Hey Jeff. I think I'd try to take advantage of what you have first. Personally, I'd love to experiment with a full width cowl setup with a new design fresh-air intake.

The flat cowl gives you SO MUCH MORE room inside the cab behind the glovebox that it's not even funny. And to my mind, the original fresh-air vent was an afterthought or, more likely, an easy way for them to keep water out of the cabin without getting all exotic and adding drains and such. But we don't have any restrictions to make it simple for production line reasons, so I say go to town.

I think fabbing up an intake to sit below the slots in the hood, but one that slims down towards the front and runs vertically behind the glovebox and into the heater intake would work. But I'm working with a stock plenum, and you say yours is aftermarket?
Most aftermarket ones I've seen aren't exactly made to specifically plumb intake air in from a stock EB vent anyway, so something fabbed up should be the ticket.
The only thing you'd have to do to make it useable would be to either "baffle" it to deflect water out another tube (similar to the factory vent box on the driver's side) or simply put a drain hose in the bottom of the new plenum and out the floor or firewall.

I bet it could be done cleanly and with better functionality than the original, because it does not have the 180° turnaround of the stock one.

Worth a few sleepless nights and doodling on paper napkins at least. Until you just toss the whole idea and stick with the recirculated air theme! %) ;D

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

a lot of folks don't use the fresh air inlets due to water leaking in...

You're probably right Crush. I've seen a lot of leakers. But it seems that most of those are probably due to debris build up in the area under the fender (where it clogs the big drain holes) or perhaps a cracked plastic letting water into where it doesn't belong.
Both are probably easily fixed, but out of frustration they may just remove the whole thing.

Lots of different ways PO's think.

Paul

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Paul,

This really isn't rocket science, and I know that I'll live with whichever way I go, without too many second thoughts.

I will go by the storage unit and take some pictures of the plenum that was provided as part of the '72 project. I also have the entire plenum that came off the '70 tub... I was originally planning on installing it in the new tub.

The '70 isn't being built as completely restored '70... I'm not sure; but, I think it falls into the "resto-mod" category. There are other modifications that make it impossible to call it restored. As long as the heater is functional, I think we'll be good. The big advantage to going back to stock is that it will be stock, the advantage to keeping the modified cowl is that there will be more room behind the IP, and there will be less opportunities for leaks inside the cab. Am I missing anything?

I am thinking that I should talk with the painter today... If we can go back later and install stock without major expense later, then I'm thinking about leaving the modified cowl as-is. (I know it would be eaiser now, although it will still be costly.)

Thanks again.

Jeff