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Motorcraft carb (newbie)

JTex_4

Newbie
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Messages
29
I’m new so excuse my forum etiquette! I bought a 74 ranger a couple months ago. I had a 74 as my fist ride that me and mostly my dad rebuilt. So I’ve always wanted another one. I’ll try to make this short and sweet. I started with pulling tanks and all fuel lines. I recently got the main rear tank cleaned up and re installed with 1 new line running all the way to the mechanical fuel pump. Everything on the truck is original. I’ve also cleaned up the inline filter in front of the carb as well as the fuel pump. So my thoughts are I should be getting good fuel all the way to the carb. She usually fires right up but once it gets warmed up and the choke opens the butterfly (I’m guessing). She dies. I can hold the butterfly almost closed and it idles great but once it opens much it dies.. help! I’ve also changed oil..
 

broncodriver99

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
4,780
Loc.
Glen Allen, VA
Sounds like you need to spend some time adjusting the carb and choke. It wouldn't hurt to get a fuel pressure gauge and check your pressure while running. It may also be time for a carb rebuild. It doesn't take much to throw them off. There is a great write up about going through and adjusting the 2100/2150. Lemme see if I can find it for you.
 
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JTex_4

JTex_4

Newbie
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Messages
29
Thanks broncodriver99 I’ll have to read that one. I’ve got a rebuild kit for the carb, I just haven’t dove that deep just yet. I’ll add it’s a 302 auto and had been sitting 5-10 years. . My dad will be a big help with this one but it’s been 15 years or so since hes piddled with one.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,915
Hey JTex, welcome to classicbroncos!

So just prior to cleaning the tank and putting in a new line it was not running for 15 years or so? Or you had it running fine, then just fiddled with the tank and lines?

And what did you do to clean the filter and pump? I would say that at this point you should replace the filter. It's only a few bucks and minutes work, so well worth it in the long-term.
Although cleaning is a long held way to deal with those old style filters, it's not perfect.

Of course, you could verify that your ignition is in top shape, and the engine has had a full tune-up first, but you might just get away with a slight adjustment of the carburetor at this point.

Two things can cause it to die like you're describing (well, probably 38 things, but we'll start with the two most common?). One is that the idle speed is simply set too low because when the choke butterfly comes full open the high-idle linkage is released. Perhaps before this it was sticking on it's last notch and the idle speed screw was adjusted to compensate.
The other thing that's common with older engines is vacuum leaks. VERY COMMON in fact!
Too much air will kill it pretty surely, and closing off the choke plate/butterfly/thingy will richen up the mixture enough to let it run again.

So a few things to deal with right off. You and your dad should have lots of fun piddling around on it. Even during the frustrating times.
Haven't heard that word in a long time. Piddling was one of my dad's favorite terms I think. He was from West Virginia, via Kentucky and Ohio, so not too far from your current stomping grounds. Might be a common thread with words.

Oh, and one more common thread with these fuel issues after sitting, is that the fuel pumps just up 'n die not long after the first few starts. So no, you have no guarantee of getting reliable fuel to the carb just yet.
Yes, you could get lucky and your pump will live long and prosper. But more often than not these days they die quickly after having sat so long.
So it's one more thing to keep an eye on while you're working on the project.

If things start to seem a little off, keep checking the oil level and smell to make sure the pump diaphragm has not ruptured and pumps gas into the crankcase more efficiently than it does to the carb.

Good luck.

Paul
 

byson1

Sr. Member
Joined
May 27, 2004
Messages
649
Loc.
Nashville
Check for vacuum leaks too. If the intake is sucking air from any source other than the carb...it's going to run lean.
 
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JTex_4

JTex_4

Newbie
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Messages
29
Thanks Paul, I pretty much just used compressed air to clean the filter and pump.. I will most likely just replace the pump and filter but I am in the very early stages so I’m just trying to get it to idle with what I’ve got right this second. As far as the truck last running... it had 07 tags on it but the kid I bought it from said his grandpa hadn’t drove it in 5-10 years.. I started with fuel just because I knew it needed to get new gas through everything. Started by dropping everything fuel related and reinstalling the main tank with a new sending unit and new line. I’ve got the engine warm a handful of times but like I said it wants to die when it gets too warm. So before I pull the carb and rebuild I guess I should play with the idle speed? I’m assuming this is just a screw, but which one? I’ll also add the motor sounds great and seems to have plenty of power. What’s the best way to go about checking for vacuum leaks??
 

englewoodcowboy

Lick Creek Restorations
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
4,200
Unless you have built a carb and are comfortable with that, this place has always done well by us in the past. Being that you are taking the time to thoroughly clean the fuel system you cannot skip over the most critical part as it more likely than not will have some accumulation and build up that will need to be cleaned out. I know several members of the site who use them as well with great results. Might be the easier way of getting it sorted and running correct again because they tune each carb on a running engine before it leaves.

http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIto7a8rLY2QIVj1x-Ch13wgvmEAMYASAAEgJQRfD_BwE
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,420
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, before you take the carb apart there are some things to try. First, check the fuel pump output by removing the line at the carb and see if the pump will fill a coffee can. Hold the can under the fuel line and have a helper crank the engine. The fuel should surge into the can and fill it in about 15 seconds. And have a fire extinguisher nearby.
Next look at the driver's side of the carb for a screw which will adjust the idle. The two screws underneath in front are idle mixture screws, and you can lightly turn them in, and then out 2 full turns fir a ballpark adjustment.
I assume most guys here will do most of the work in the driveway, so get a Chilton's manual for good info and pictures about working on your Bronco. And don't be afraid to ask any questions.
I would get the engine into shape, and then think about checking the brakes, changing all the fluids, packing the bearings, greasing it all up and enjoying the experience. Most important, be safe.Good luck
 

byson1

Sr. Member
Joined
May 27, 2004
Messages
649
Loc.
Nashville
Yes, even as crappy as they can often be, I would recommend a Chiltons or Haynes manual as it gives basic info that can be helpful. If I were working on this the first thing I'd do (with the engine OFF) is look into the carb, twist the throttle arm and see if any fuel is being shot into the intake. If not, at the very least you have a carb issue. That's also the same arm you adjust for the idle. If it is idling fine, chances are it may not have a vacuum leak. That being said, there are lots of ways to check for vac leaks. Some folks will spray carb cleaner in problem areas (vacuum lines, carb base plate gasket etc) and others like to use a propane bottle (not lit;D ) because it's not as messy. The idea behind using something flammable for a vac leak is that you're mixing a fuel source (carb cleaner or propane) in with an air (vacuum) leak. If there is a vacuum leak the engine with increase in RPM's and you've found the spot where the leak is.
Good luck.
 
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JTex_4

JTex_4

Newbie
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Messages
29
Wow, thanks guys! Lots of helpful info in a short amount of time. I appreciate all your tips! I’ll keep y’all updated as I figure things out.
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,420
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, after looking at the post again, I see you ran a new fuel line. I hope you ran a metal 3/8 replacement line because a rubber fuel hose is not OK.
Also as mentioned, just change the fuel filter on the carb, and carry an extra filter in the tool bag.
I also use a clear plastic fuel filter just before the fuel pump.
It can't hurt to use Marvel Mystery oil @ 4 oz for a tank of gas because it may get the carb to work better.
Good luck
 
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JTex_4

JTex_4

Newbie
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Messages
29
Byson1,
So I looked into the carb while twisting the throttle arm and gas is shooting into the carb but only on the passenger side. Is this right? I got her to idle today while warm but something is still slightly off.. just doesn’t sound perfect. I put an inline filter before the fuel pump and also put a new filter in front of the carb. I adjusted the idle screw just a little as it got warm and was able to keep her at idle.
 

byson1

Sr. Member
Joined
May 27, 2004
Messages
649
Loc.
Nashville
No you should have 2 equal streams of fuel going into each side. You either have a clogged fuel passage way (in the carb) and or leaking accelerator pump. These old carbs are pretty easy to rebuild, or you could buy a used one off here or a remanufactured one. Either way, a rebuild or another carb will be needed, at the very least, to get the engine running properly.
 
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JTex_4

JTex_4

Newbie
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Messages
29
Update: I got the carb tore apart today so I’ll be soaking it tomorrow and then the fun starts..
 
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JTex_4

JTex_4

Newbie
Joined
Jan 16, 2018
Messages
29
Ok so I have almost everything back together.. I have found that there was a idle stop solenoid plugged in and laying up under the carb.. I have done some research and figured out how and where it mounts. But getting it tuned in with the other adjustments will be something else. I have also found that my carb spacer is badly damaged and needs replaced.. it has a large crack and also one of the large holes has cracked.. last but not least my fuel filter screw in is pretty badly stripped.. I may have done it with the new filter I put on but don’t think so.. I had to put some Teflon tape on the new filter to get it to not leak.. so I have some work to do. If anyone has suggestions on where or what to buy for a new spacer and also options for the filter screw in on the front of the carb let me know! I’d post pics but haven’t figured that out from my phone yet.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,915
The threads can probably be re-newed even though they're pipe thread. The proper tap or thread cleaner might get you there and leave enough meat for the filters to still grab before bottoming out.

Not sure about a good source for the spacer. Plenty of used ones out there I would think, plus there are new ones available for the EGR style. Edelbrock and others sell those for 4bbl to 2bbl adaptation of the 4bbl manifolds, but I bet there are 2bb to 2bbl versions still out there.

The old one can be fixed too most likely, but would also just as likely cost more than buying a good one.

Posting pics is not easy unless you become a contributor for 13 bucks a year. That lets you post directly from your phone or computer. But you can still post up images by using another online image hosting site (except for PhotoBucket!) that many members use.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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