My EFI conversion***ITS ALIVE! but still has codes***

[bronko69er]

Well I decided to start collecting parts for the EFI conversion and begin the learning process. I want to know if this setup is worth buying.

This is all the guy knows, he's asking $100....

"Mid 80's Mustang. Parts include upper and lower intake, throttle body, fuelrail and injectors, extra injectors, partial harness with no computer, and distributor. Bought all of it off e-bay as a package deal, I only wanted some of theother parts that the package came with. I will also throw in the pistons and rods plus the RV cam it came with if interested."

My questions is: this is likley a speed density setup, will the manifolds still work for a mass air setup? Thats what I want to do, the 89-93 Mustang EFI.
Should I just get it anyway and re-sell anything that's not right for what I'm trying to do?

Let me know soon as I'm headed there after work. Thanks.

 

[crawln68]

That looks like an 89 to 93 set up form a passenger car. The GT-40 upper and lower (from a Mustang or Mark VII) will gain you a little more HP though. But if you are just looking for a good EFI set up, this upper and lower, fuel rails and injectors look like the correct ones that you want. Yes, you can get the Mass Air parts and run it on this set up. Looks like a good deal for $100.

 

[bronko69er]

Thanks.... any other comments... gotta leave work in about 30min....

 

[Airtractr]

That upper and lower could be from a Mustang or pass. car ie..crown vic, grand marquis or a lincoln, town car or mk-VII, the GT-40 set up did not come factory on ANY pass car mustang or lincoln. They were on 351's on Lightnings and on the 95 Mustang Cobra R model, that's it. A 93 Mustang Cobra will have a GT-40 lower but a cast upper not the tubular upper which is the GT-40.

I can't tell from the photos but it looks to be a SD set up as I cannot see a terminal for the MAF. Also w/o a computer could be either one. You've got a good stert and for a buck I think you did well.

 

[OX1]

86 upper and throttle body are smaller than 87+. Ask him for the part number off the upper.

 

[Nobody]

I'd hold out for a parts car. They are pretty common.

I picked this up for $500. Tight 5.0L HO. 99K on the clock. Plug and play.

 

[bronko69er]

Well I took the chance and grabbed it all for $100. Here what I got, any help with further IDing would be great.

 

[Duke Nukem]

For $100 I think you got a good deal. Remember that you can mix and match parts so you don't need to get everything from one vehicle. You have all the basics to get you started: upper and lower intake, throttle body, distributor, fuel rail, injectors, and sensors. If you want to go mass air you will need to get yourself a mass air sensor and a new computer. That also means that you will need to either re-work your wiring harness or get yourself an aftermarket harness. The aftermarket harnesses are cool cause they are basically plug and play, but the downside is the extra $$. It depends on your skills, patience, and budget.

Changing out the cam is not necessary, though going to the later 5.0 firing order will work somewhat better. I ran efi on my old 302 with the original firing order and it ran fine. But if you want to change out the cam anyway go ahead. Just keep in mind that a flat tappet cam requires that you run a cast gear on your distributor, but a roller cam uses a steel gear. Make sure that you have the right gear for the right cam, otherwise you'll shred the gear and send pieces of metal into your engine. You can buy replacement gears for your cam at any autoparts store.

I think you're off to a good start. Good luck, and ask any questions as you move along with your project.

 

[bigmuddy]

The cast GT-40 upper and lower came on the explorer 5.0 as well along with a 65MM TB. Looks like a good price for the parts received.

Ben

 

[bronko69er]

Quick question,
Is it possible with to run the EFI dizzy (pictured above) without a computer? Will my MSD 6AL fire it like it does my duraspark?
I'm guessing no because the computer controlls the advance?

 

[TurdBronco]

Quick question,
Is it possible with to run the EFI dizzy (pictured above) without a computer? Will my MSD 6AL fire it like it does my duraspark?
I'm guessing no because the computer controlls the advance?

Nope, the msd cant run by itself.



That harness doesnt look useable, all the wires are cut.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Quick question,
Is it possible with to run the EFI dizzy (pictured above) without a computer? Will my MSD 6AL fire it like it does my duraspark?
I'm guessing no because the computer controlls the advance?

It can run, but the computer controls the advance. so without a computer the advance will be fixed. Same as running EFI with the Spout disconected

 

[bronko69er]

I was giving more thought on fuel plumbing for the EFI.
I there any reason I cant use the stock mechanical fuel pump to fill an accumulator (in place of a low pressure electric pump)?
I guess the only concern is keeping the accumulator full and having enough volume there to be able to prime the HP pump before starting?
Any other concerns?
I guess I'd need a check valve to keep the accumulator from siphoning back into the tank.

 

[A4x4Junky]

I was giving more thought on fuel plumbing for the EFI.
I there any reason I cant use the stock mechanical fuel pump to fill an accumulator (in place of a low pressure electric pump)?
I guess the only concern is keeping the accumulator full and having enough volume there to be able to prime the HP pump before starting?
Any other concerns?
I guess I'd need a check valve to keep the accumulator from siphoning back into the tank.

A mechanical fuel pump runs off an eccentric which you wont have on that cam. I suppose you could add one and use a longer bolt. You will also have to change the timing cover so you have a mounting location for the pump. Might end up easier than trying to work out this mechanical pump with accumulator.

As for volume, sorry...no idea. Keep in mind that somewhere around 1987 the FSB went with a single inline pump which wouldnt require you to run a feeder pump.

Anthony

 

[bronko69er]

I should clarify a few things.
This system is goin on my 69 302 in place of my carb.
I'll be doing this with stock tanks (untill I can afford a 24 gal EFI tank.
Im not changing the cam (initially) just the dizzy gear, so I'll still have the eccentric.
Same timming cover.
Here's my logic:
Since the motor is the same (actually more efficient with EFI) the fuel consumption wont be any more.
Since the existing pump can supply enough GPH for the current setup, it should work fine for the new setup.
Assuming I route the fuel rail return to the accumulator, it should stay full.
My only concernt with this is that I'm returning hot (warmer) fuel back to the accumulator. Would this work?

 

[Broncobowsher]

It has been done before and should work. The accumulator will still need a return to the tank or somehow put a needle and seat (holley fuel bowl). This keeps the accumulator from getting pressurized.
You do not want backpressure on the return off the fuel injection. So it should be installed a little different that what I think you are thinking about.

 

[bronko69er]

Here is what I was thinking.

 

[AKwheeler]

I don't think you should be running the return into the accumulator either. The fill time for the accumulator will depend upon many things such as voltage drops, engine load (more return at idle/less at high load), pump voltage, pump specs and more. Even if you had it set up for one pump, replacing the pump at some point could change the return flow characteristics. Running a mechanical into the accumulator and the return flow as well could develop a higher than normal return pressure back to the main tank. A large return line could take care of that I suppose, but sounds like work.

Why not just adapt (ie weld) a Fuelie sending unit/pump assembly into the top of a factory (metal) tank and adapt the fuel feed to the right height? I have done this to a few vehicles (including adding a sump on the bottom of the tank to retain flow on off-camber situations) with great success. Then a single stock pump could do the job it was designed for, the pump would be quieter and last longer. It would also have a factory return. The only trick is getting some good welds which isn't too hard. I plan on doing this to MY Bronco this winter. A body lift may be necessary, as I haven't seen how much room is there is above the tank without one. Just a thought. You could then plumb another low pressure pump to pull the fuel from your front tank (if equipped) and run the line to the stock outlet on the rear tank if you wish.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Here is what I was thinking.

That will work perfect. Don't forget a filter or two.

I run the same set up except only a 3 port factory valve and electric low side pump left over from my carb days. All the fuel returns to the main tank. I have to run the main tank low, switch to the aux tank, that flows through the accumulator into the main tank, then switch back to the main tank. Never been a problem. Always have fuel no matter what stupid angle I sit at or how much fuel is in the tank.

I like accumulaters. I have had EFI on a car that would suck air in a hard turn. That air bubble kills fuel pressure and the engine. Straighten up from the turn, catch some fuel, wait a second to push the air bubble out of the way and power comes back on. Known Broncos that would do the same thing when sloshing fuel away from the pickup when trying to accelerate. Strange incosistenet surging. Accumulaters are very nice for EFI. Carbs have them built in, called fuel bowls.

 

[bronko69er]

That will work perfect. Don't forget a filter or two.

I run the same set up except only a 3 port factory valve and electric low side pump left over from my carb days. All the fuel returns to the main tank. I have to run the main tank low, switch to the aux tank, that flows through the accumulator into the main tank, then switch back to the main tank. Never been a problem. Always have fuel no matter what stupid angle I sit at or how much fuel is in the tank.

I like accumulaters. I have had EFI on a car that would suck air in a hard turn. That air bubble kills fuel pressure and the engine. Straighten up from the turn, catch some fuel, wait a second to push the air bubble out of the way and power comes back on. Known Broncos that would do the same thing when sloshing fuel away from the pickup when trying to accelerate. Strange incosistenet surging. Accumulaters are very nice for EFI. Carbs have them built in, called fuel bowls.

In addition to the filters, I though it might be a good idea to add a check valve between the stock mech pump and the accumulator so it will not drain back to the tank. Or will the pump not allow this?
I guess I don't really need a 6 port switch initially, I wonder how much faster fuel will be consumend from the aux tank if the return is only filling the main tank?