My swing out latch

[Greg_B]

I took a few minutes and tried to draw up the latch I am going to fab up to hold my swing out tire and cooler racks closed.

It is a very simple drawing... basically all I need to laser cut it out. The left side shows the assembly closed and the right is all the parts I am cutting out.

The slotted part will be mounted on top of my bumper and have a "U" shaped 3/8 wire welded to it. I wish I could think of something better for this part or a way to hide the entire latch.... That is the reason I am posting... I welcome any ideas or input...

Greg

 

[Kyle.malone]

Looks to me like it is a good idea and should work.

 

[GrillMaster]

Looks real nice but here is my simple solution. I used these:


they worked great. I will post pics as soon as I get my home computer fixed.

Parts list from Mc master car
1 90222A423 2 Each Zinc-plated Steel Weld-in Pull Pin, Nonlocking W/ball Hndl,3/8"pin Dia,3"barrel Length

1 3351A38 2 Each Spring Stop, Delrin Round Face, 16.5-47.50# Final End Force

2 90222A548 2 Each Zinc-plated Steel Weld-in Pull Pin, Locking W/t-handle,1/2"pin Dia,2-1/4" Barrel L

 

[69BroncoDad]

Can get them twist locks at AWDIRECT or and company that makes parts for tow trucks..come in various sizes and handles I have a few..work awesome

 

[Steve83]

Your toggle is too far overcenter. If you make it so it's tight with the lever that far past alignment, it'll be too tight to latch or unlatch. And if you make it loose enough to latch, it'll be so loose that the hook will fall off the pin.

Check this out:

 

[Greg_B]

Your toggle is too far overcenter. If you make it so it's tight with the lever that far past alignment, it'll be too tight to latch or unlatch. And if you make it loose enough to latch, it'll be so loose that the hook will fall off the pin.

Check this out:

You may be correct.. I am not smart enough to figure that stuff out on my own. My geometry is copied from the Destaco latch #334. I took all the pivot points and designed the latch around it.... I actually took the cad drawing off their web site and used it as a starting point. I saw a lot of people used that latch with success so I figured the geometry worked.

I think I may add an adjustment screw under it somewhere to limit the over travel to avoid the situation you described. That will screw up my hole for a locking pin to go through.... hmmm.

Greg

 

[ol gray mare]

It appears to me you have adjustment in the part of the latch that attaches to the bumper, allowing you to set the "cam over" point as needed. Looks like it will work great to me.

 

[fablife]

I like the cam/eccentric latches a lot. It's always better to have a stop for the carrier, but with limited room (for the tailgate to open) it's tough. That is the reason I use the old threaded stud design...
I have burnt my brain thinking of different latches...well what little I have left anyway, lol..
I know Greg will come up with something nice tho...
this is my latest, JD
http://deepsouthfab.net/current/latch1aa.jpg

 

[Greg_B]

I like the cam/eccentric latches a lot. It's always better to have a stop for the carrier, but with limited room (for the tailgate to open) it's tough. That is the reason I use the old threaded stud design...
I have burnt my brain thinking of different latches...well what little I have left anyway, lol..
I know Greg will come up with something nice tho...
this is my latest, JD
http://deepsouthfab.net/current/latch1aa.jpg

Hey JD... I was headed the same direction as you on the threaded stud... but it seems like I am always having to get in the back for something. Since I am planning a double swing out I thought I needed something that would latch and unlatch quicker.

I may regret it... Yours looks really good.

Going to "bolt" my latch on if you know what I mean... I may wantto change.

Greg

 

[66/75bronco]

I used a TRI-MARK double jaw latch. It is similar to a door latch. I welded a nut on the swing away part and threaded a bolt in it. The latch is actually inside my bumper. Had to notch the top surface but it works great. Google tri-mark latches and it may give you another option.

 

[Steve83]

No, I looked at it too quickly - the way the pieces were arranged and the lock hole made me think it was assembled differently, but I got it now. B & D are in the same plane, and it's only a few degrees overcenter. I rearranged it & labelled the parts to help me unnerstan it.



I guess that's a TOP view, and front is the bottom of the image. I'd avoid that style because it places the handle where it's MOST-likely to get damaged off-road or on-, by backing into something, or getting rear-ended. And it'd be very easy for that long handle to hook onto something behind you. The one I sketched places a much smaller handle where it's more protected, and it can be built so the hook doesn't protrude past the bumper or arm. I just sketched it that way so it's easy to see how it works.

 

[Greg_B]

You are correct... I should have made it a little more "low profile" If my math is right it would have about 1" between the swing out tube and the handle.

It should be tucked up under the spare tire some though...

Thanks for the input...

Greg

 

[Steve83]

...it would have about 1" between the swing out tube and the handle.

Remember to leave room for your fingers... You don't wanna bust your knuckles every time the handle snaps closed. That's another reason I'd avoid that lever.

 

[getfuzzy]

It would help to see your bumper and swingout. I like the latch your thinking about. To lock it is a plus. Is your swingout square or round tubing. Here a pic of mine.

 

[Steve83]

That reminds me of one more thing: the one I posted is self-latching (slam & forget). The others require manual latching.