Need some help choosing a starting welder

[DuctTape]

So I'm working on a frame-off plan down the road a little bit, but I have some repairs I'd like to patch in in the meantime (as well as some other projects). So I think I'm going to buy a welder.

I learned how to weld 20 years ago from an old crusty guy that used to weld in an auto factory. He taught me stick and oxy-acetylene. It's been a long time but he taught me the basics, but back in those days MIG/TIG didn't exist.

Anyway, what I'm looking for for my first home welder is something cheap and relatively light duty. I intend to have any serious structural welding done by a professional, but I'd like to be able to tackle:

- body and panel repair

- minor modifications to my travel trailer (adding a second propane tank rack, battery tray, etc)

- accessory building, eg I'd like to build my own storage box for my bronco and for our camp trailer.

- possible aluminum welding (I think you can use MIG for aluminum, right?) as we're thinking of ripping out all of the old wood in our 1979 camp trailer and replacing a lot of it with aluminum and/or fiberglass

- I prefer 110v for the moment, I'm currently renting and don't really feel like running 220v in a rental. If I absolutely need to I will tho'.

I've been trying to search the forums and haunting ebay/craigslist but I feel like I'm in over my head. Wire feed MIG sounds like the way to go, but I'm worried that with my ignorance I'll buy the wrong thing or buy a dog of a welder. I'm also confused over when to add gas to a MIG welder vs just the wire feed...

I don't want to spend more than $500, and if I can get away with a used model for 100-200 bucks I'd have that much more to budget for my frame-off .

Thanks!

Brian

PS. Oh and any comments on torch vs plasma cutter for Bronco body work and all around utility would be great! In research mode on this one at the moment so any help is appreciated.

 

[bmc69]

A 110V MIG unit (135/140A) will do bodywork, for sure, and is good to (barely) 3/16" in steel otherwise. Might be enough for what you described.

And don't expect it to weld aluminum at all, despite what is often advertised. To weld aluminum without going insane in the process requires a push-pull wire handler (mine is an AIRco) or a spool gun (both of mine are ProFax) and at least a 175A/220V machine or CV source....and a LOT more money to spend than $500.

 

[Dave]

180 Amps minimum. 210 if you can afford it. You pretty much get what you pay for with a welder. The cheap welders at HF are! Gas is the best way to go with MIG. For occasional welding you can make up a long 220 extension cord to plug into a dryer of range outlet. If you get a decent unit you will feel comfortable with the "structural" work in no time. Don't waste the time trying to get set up for aluminum unless you are going to be doing a bunch of it. Take that to the "professional".

 

[sstlaure]

I've got a Lincoln MIG Pak 3200HD and it works great. New it was under $500, you can find them on craigslist all the time for 3-400.

I'd recommend going with the gas mix rather than the shielded wire (for cleaner welds) so that will run you another $100-150. (I got an 80lb bottle) Get a big tank, you'll be glad you did as you'll quickly run through a small bottle.

I agree that I wouldn't try aluminum with it. Better off with a TIG for aluminum.

 

[trailpsycho]

I scored a floor model Lincoln 135 at Lowes for very cheap. It has worked great for everything. I even did some SS. For thicker material, run flux-core wire, bevel edges and make multiple passes. For the thin stuff (1/8" and thinner), as Scott said, run the gas. Practice. Have fun.

I will say after using a 220V unit at my fabricator-buddies place that there is no substitution for power...but realistically, a 110 V will do (well) most of what you need to do. Its hard enough sometimes getting the setup just right with a 110 unit on thinner stuff. I know a couple guys with 220 units that cant keep from "popping-through" thinner work...even "turned all the way down". Good luck.

Another source is to check with your local welding supply shops and rental places, sometimes they have slightly used units. Craigslist or newspaper will be your cheapest means to find a unit, though. Lincoln, Miller, Hobart are all good names.

 

[welndmn]

A small 110 welder, like a lincoln 135, or Miller 135 will be just perfect for you.
Sure many people will tell you to get a 220 machine, and a 220 will weld better then most 110's but do you need one?
I tell most people to start out with a 110 welder, put about 4-5 years on it, then look to buy a 220 machine.
BUT NEVER get rid of the 110 machine, those are great for everything, like taking to a friends house that needs help with something and 220 is not there.
Oh, to weld aluminum, all those machines will need a spool gun. See if they sell a spool cun attachment.
If not, I have used my Ready Welder as a spool gun on many different machines to weld aluminum.

 

[bighorn]

Everybody needs a small 110v welder. When you move up to a 220V you really need to get into the upper end of them to get the most out of the 220V power....say 200 amps plus.

A quality 110V welder will do great sheetmetal work and most non chassis operations on the bronco. Always go with a gas setup. Flux core isn't much fun once you've tried it with gas. If you decide that you want more, than save up for a industrial class 220V machine.

The Hobart Handler 140 is a great machine at a affordable cost. They changed the lower end tap on the HH140 to make it more friendly to lighter gauages when it was upgraded from the HH135. It has marginally more power on the top but most noticablely less at the bottom than the HH135. I would look on craiglists or local pawnshops for some of the 110V machines.
Hobart and Miller are both owned by ITW and the machine innards are very close (if not the same) in the lower end machines. Although pricey the Miller DVI is a dual voltage 110V/220V machine that really gives you the best of both worlds and the weld quality is superb. It would do anything you could ask on the bronco.

If you're looking for an affordable plasma, try parkermetalworking. they have a dual voltage 110V/220V plasma cutter for a great price. A plasma cutter makes cutting floorboard out fun.....if you've done it with a grinder you'll know how unfun it can be.

 

[TN1776]

110v welders are great for the portability factor... A friend has one and I've borrowed it many times (especially before I had 220 in my garage). I've had my dad's 220v welder (with gas) on semi-permanent loan since about January. When he finally comes back for it I'm going to seriously consider a 200+ amp welder to replace it. I've grown very accustomed to having a 220 welder and use it for all kinds of stuff. I can't see being without a welder for very long!

 

[DuctTape]

Thanks for the help guys

 

[FSRBIKER]

Miller, Lincoln, Hobart all make good 110V welders, 220V is great but you will get alot of use out of a 110V unit. If you find something on Craigslist post up the ad and I am sure we can help you decide if it's a good deal. Go with a gas setup though, rent the tank and then buy one if you can't swing the cash right now.

 

[Crewwzin]

The Hobart Handler 140 is a great machine at a affordable cost. They changed the lower end tap on the HH140 to make it more friendly to lighter gauages when it was upgraded from the HH135. It has marginally more power on the top but most noticablely less at the bottom than the HH135. I would look on craiglists or local pawnshops for some of the 110V machines.
Hobart and Miller are both owned by ITW and the machine innards are very close (if not the same) in the lower end machines. Although pricey the Miller DVI is a dual voltage 110V/220V machine that really gives you the best of both worlds and the weld quality is superb. It would do anything you could ask on the bronco.

I second this. I just bought a HH140 the other day on craigslist. I got the welder, cart, full gas bottle, 4 rolls of wire, gloves and a mask for $400. You just gotta keep your eyes open for the right one. I would recommend sticking with the name brands...Lincoln, Miller, Hobart (mine even has a Miller gun). You wont be disappointed with the 140. Its done everything I need it to do so far.

 

[Boss351]

Buy a lincoln SP 170 220v it wil make you a PRO in about 2minutes USE .030 wire w/gas it will weld floor pans to half inch plate. Just buy the right one first you will thank your self later.

 

[allenfahey]

I was talking to one of our paint sales people today. She runs a little side tool buisness and she has an almost brand new Miller ???? 110V. It comes with an aluminum spool gun and gas setup with the cart for about $800 or so and she will ship.

 

[bcrump5252]

ive got a miller 210 I know you said u wanted 110, but just my 2 cents im learning to weld not and my uncle a prof. welder for almost 40 years said when i was looking to get a welder that could handle more than u think u are going to do just in case you ever need it. if you are going to do a ground up and might need to weld on the frame I dont know if 110 will do it.

as i said im just starting out so if anyone has an opinion plz chime in.

 

[vt89gtvert]

I am looking at the same situation. I have never welded before, but have realized I need to learn. From everything I have read Mig is my best option, and I rent as well so staying 110 is a must. Only thing I have found on Craigslist is a miller 135 for $400....

Just thinking ahead, what would be needed to weld DOM???

 

[77broncoguy]

go with a 220 machine. You'll be far better off in the long run for it, you gain the ability to weld thicker metal while still being able to do anything you can do with the 110. The other thing is most 110v welders have a duty cycle somewhere around 40%, the portable 220v are around 80%, and if you get a larger roll around 220v you'll get 100%.

Not to mention you'll be reseting tripped breakers left and right with the 110. The 110v machines are good machines, and they definitely have their place, and being able to take it to a buddy's house or anywhere and plug it in is a good point. But, if you have 110v, you have 220v. You can always make up an extension cord to run from a dryer plug, or directly into the electrical panel.

That's just my opinion on the matter. I've been a fabricator for many years, and my first personal machine was a lincoln 110v and I did a lot with it including my floor pans on my Bronco, so I'm not saying don't go that way, but the 220v machine will do about anything you want.

You can weld heavier gauge metals with the 110 if you heat it up with a torch first to gain penetration, but it's much nicer to get the heat from the welder.

 

[My69Pony]

Not to highjack, but I’m in the same stage of looking for a welder. I keep getting drawn towards the 220v. Any electricians out there that can give a ball park figure for getting 220v set up in the garage?
Thanks, Brian

 

[FSRBIKER]

Not to highjack, but I’m in the same stage of looking for a welder. I keep getting drawn towards the 220v. Any electricians out there that can give a ball park figure for getting 220v set up in the garage?
Thanks, Brian

Is your electrical panel or sub panel in the garage, if so that makes it pretty easy as long as you have open slots.

 

[bmc69]

Is your electrical panel or sub panel in the garage, if so that makes it pretty easy as long as you have open slots.

Yup. A 220V breaker set, a knockout cable gland for the panel box, some 10-3 copper cable and the correct 220V wall outlet and receptacle box...depends on how much copper you need but figure no more than 200 bucks in materials if its a reasonably short run.

 

[My69Pony]

Thanks for the information, yes the box is in the garage with several open slots. I for one think i'm leaning more towards the 220v and not have to upgade in the future.
Brian