• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Need some help!

dwmckenzie

New Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2024
Messages
2
I have a 1977 Bronco, 302 carburetor, automatic with centech wiring harness (already installed when I bought it) that I'm restoring myself. Cranked and ran fine one day and then the next day when the key is in the start position the engine will start and run with the starter engaged but when the key goes to the on position it goes dead and won't stay running. This is what I've changed out since this has happened..

Solenoid
Ignition switch
Ignition control module
Checked all fuses

Spark plugs, wires, distributer, coil were all changed out about 6 months ago.

I'm assuming it's in the wiring somewhere and I don't have a clue where to look! Any help on what to check and any ideas would be appreciated!
 
OP
OP
D

dwmckenzie

New Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2024
Messages
2
Yea the wiring to the coil hasn't changed and I was just reading about the ballast resistor... I'll swap it out and then go from there! Thanks!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
Stop swapping parts, and test, test, test instead.
And whatever you do, DO NOT THROW AWAY THE OLD PARTS!

First step is to test for power at the coil positive. Then test for power at the ignition control module's power wire at the connector.
From the factory, these wires were Red w/green stripe. On the Centech I don't remember what they were, so you might have to tell us so we can all be on the same page.
The Dura-Spark module has two connectors. A 3-wire and a 4-wire. The 3-wire (probably only has two actual wires though) is the one you need to be concerned with at this point.
You're looking for the wire that connects to the module's Red wire. The White wire is for START functions only, so the Red wire is the one for now.

You do have a volt-meter, correct? A test light would even help here, but a volt-meter is better at diagnosing actual issues.

For the time being, disconnect the small wire on the "I" terminal of the starter relay/solenoid on the fender. From the factory it's Brown, but from Centech I think it's the White one? Maybe Blue?

The reason I say don't throw away old parts is because they weren't bad to begin with, and new parts are often bad right out of the box.
Your starter relay was not the issue initially, but if removing the White/Blue/whatever wire helps it start, then it might have been grounding out. Usually the starter relay is the one component that actually helps in situations like this. Where it might actually be the ignition switch in the dash that has failed, and the starter relay/solenoid was supplying power to the coil while the starter was cranking.
So while it's still possible for the starter relay to have gone funky, it's very low on the list for now.
Highest on the list would be, in this order:
1. Ignition switch.
2. Ignition Module
3. Wiring to the ignition.
4. Including the resistor, but only if there is one and only if the wiring is normal as expected.

All are worth checking. But don't just replace a resistor, or a module, or a coil, or a connector, or anything. Not until it's been proven bad through testing.
There are still things that should just be replaced when diagnosing a problem. But they're few and far between.

Paul
 
Top