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Never changed C bushings before

airman

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Nov 26, 2003
Messages
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I have never changed C bushings before but will be doing it Saturday morning. I have been spraying (penetrating oil) and tapping the bolts on the Radius arms, the lower spring mounts and the rear arm nut nightly all this week. Are there any other tricks of the trade I should know so something doesnt bite me in the rear?

How about any "while you are doing that you should do this while you are there" fixes.

I'm pretty sure I can handle it and the directions in the manual seem pretty simple.

Thanks guys
Jeff in AZ
 

TJK74

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Feb 21, 2003
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3,154
Loc.
Newark CA
Read the tech article on the dreaded bronco lean. Its all plain and simple but will make you life much easier if done right the first time.
 

crawln68

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Oct 8, 2004
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3,045
airman said:
How about any "while you are doing that you should do this while you are there" fixes.


While you have everything apart, you might as well install some extended radius arms. ;D ;D
 
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airman

airman

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Whats the hammer for?

I will be doing it in my shop so noise is no issue. I keep lots of BFH's on hand for many purposes. When I get r done I'll snap a picture of the hammer collection.

Jeff in AZ
 

Tgure

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crawln68 said:
While you have everything apart, you might as well install some extended radius arms. ;D ;D


I second that :p

Jeff if you need a hand let me know. I am at least good for standing on a radius arm while you tighten the bolts ;D
 

dpmerrill

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Springville, UT
I second the tech article on Bronco Lean. I also got bolts slightly longer than stock to make starting them easier around those new bushings.
 

JWMcCrary

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dpmerrill said:
I second the tech article on Bronco Lean. I also got bolts slightly longer than stock to make starting them easier around those new bushings.

I third the tech article. Make sure your radius arms are level or it will lean. I just did mine this past weekend. An impact wrench is almost a must. I was able to start my stock bolts but some a little longer would make it easier.
 
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airman

airman

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crawln68 said:
While you have everything apart, you might as well install some extended radius arms. ;D ;D

Proably swap out to a D60 too right? The extended arms are on the list but a little farther down. crawln68, I like how you think!

Rephrase, any thing I should do while I'm there under 200 dollars?

Jeff in AZ
 

marriedguy1

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Jul 14, 2003
Messages
142
Loc.
San Antonio, TX
I replaced mine with the poly bushings and could not get the bolts started because the bushings would not collapse enough under the strain of my wet noodles(weak arms) So I went and bought a piece of 9/16 all thread and cut it about 7 inches long and then welded some nuts on the end to make a long enough bolt. I made 4 of these and then I tightened them down and backed them out one at a time and replaced them with the right bolt. Not very hard with an impact. On a side note I did have to run a thread chaser in there to clean up the threads, but not a big deal since I had the right size. Only a problem if you don't have the right size.
 
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airman

airman

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I like the bolt idea, what size should I go get? Grade-8 I imagine right?

I have an air impact and electric impact I like the electric better.

I was planning on parking a forklift infront of the bronco and attaching a strap to the frame/bumper to lift up. Should I be trying to get it from the side incase I need to roll the axle out?

Aaron, I am not sure if I need a hand or not but thanks for the offer. If your looking for something to do you are welcome to sit in a chair and laugh at me busting my knuckles.

thanks guys, Im on the lean article, I hadn't thought about that. Shall I kiss your butts now or later? I actually don';t have lean now but when I added my rear bumper with 35" spare I have a little ass drag :-X

Jeff in AZ
 

crawln68

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airman said:
Proably swap out to a D60 too right? The extended arms are on the list but a little farther down. crawln68, I like how you think!

Rephrase, any thing I should do while I'm there under 200 dollars?

Jeff in AZ


Ahhhh man! I like spending other peoples money. (he he) :p
 
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airman

airman

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Am I leaving the wheels on or setting the axle on jack stands for this? It seems like leaving the wheels on would be easier to roll the axle back and forth but like I said, never done it before.

how much longer on the bolts, 9/16 by coarse/fine by plus an inch?

Jeff in AZ
 

dpmerrill

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Springville, UT
I went with jackstands for placing the end caps because I didn't have the track bar on, so the axle housing kept rolling away from me and the wheels kept flopping over.

After the radius arms were tight, I put the wheels on for rolling the radius arms back into the frame.

I got 1" longer bolts. I could have gone a little shorter, but at that size my only choices were 1/2" increments. I think 1/2" to 3/4" would make it real easy.

Definitely grade 8.
 

Big Nuf

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Sep 1, 2004
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Loc.
Tulsa, OK
While you have your lower spring buckets off, get a piece off all thread and make studs sticking up out of the radius arms. This way you don't have to get those bolts started by sticking your finger though the spring. Saves about 30 min.
 
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airman

airman

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Big Nuf said:
While you have your lower spring buckets off, get a piece off all thread and make studs sticking up out of the radius arms. This way you don't have to get those bolts started by sticking your finger though the spring. Saves about 30 min.

So studs with nuts and lock washers? Sounds pretty good, You don't happen to remember what that thread is do you? seems like 5/16 from memory (memory of spraying them with oil and judging from the hex head) but it could be 3/8.

I will go out and get the hardware in advance. I like the spring idea.

From memory the threads on the radius arm front bolts are fine thread. Are the spring bolts fine thread too?

Jeff in AZ
 

rcmbronc

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Tomah WI
I just changed my 6.25 bushings to 7 degrees this weekend. Took about 3 hours. The longest part is getting the spring cup bolts back in. If you have stock springs it should be fairly easy. My 3.5" lift springs make it a little bit of a challenge.

Put axle on jackstands. Took off tires and shocks bottom bolt. Then put front of frame on jackstands and removed to ones under the axle. Then the axle can droop way down. Remove spring lower bolts. Unbolt radius arm caps from both sides. I put a couple of 4x4's under each brake rotor. Put some grease on the new bushings and install. Tighten the caps progressively with a criss cross pattern. Then just reverse the procedure to assemble. I did not loosen the rear radius arm nuts. If you need more droop this would probably help.

Seemed to work good. Like I said the spring lower bolts can be a real pain. Without removing the radius arms, I am not sure that putting studs in the caps for the spring lower mount would work. I couldn't compress the spring enough to get it over studs.
 

HotWheels

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Jul 8, 2003
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Twilight Zone
just keep it level and all weight off it while going back and forth tightening the bolts and you should have no worries. This is my second set of bushings from raising and lowering my rig....no lean yet (fingers crossed).... :D
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
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Dec 13, 2002
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8,317
airman said:
So studs with nuts and lock washers? Sounds pretty good,
Actually doesn't sound too good to me. I like the idea of Grade5 or Grade8 hardware, instead of some Home Depot all-thread.

To remount the coil springs, position the lower cup and retainer, and start the two bolts about two or three threads. Place the coil spring over top of the retainer, and "screw" the coil spring underneath the retainer until it's in position. Then tighten the lower two bolts.

There an article in the Tech section on installing the upper spring retainer.
 
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