New Buyer Looking For Advice on Value

[ILikeBond]

Hi!

I'm new to the EB world, but already deeply engrossed and on my hunt for my first rig. Looking forward to spending lots of times on these boards. (FYI, I'm a Ford enthusiast, with a significantly modded 2005 Mustang GT, and a member on several Mustang boards for years; I see this community is pretty similar).

Anyway, I'm actively searching and am planning on seeing a Bronco this weekend that I think looks like a pretty decent option. Definitely seems pretty clean (one sore point I can see is the paint match on the hood is pretty bad).

I was wondering if you guys can help me out, with this information and these pictures, in determining a fair price range. I'm happy to tell you what he's asking, but for now I'll leave it open-ended so as not to inadvertently influence anything.

Appreciate it! Glad to be here!

1970 Bronco converted to 1973 Sport
302, 3 on the Tree
Front disc brakes
3" lift, 33" tires
Floor pan replaced

 

[ripper72]

Depending on the condition of all things unseen. I would guess 6K-7K...if everything is straight

 

[74BroncoCO]

I would guess that the price on that could range from about $8k on up to around $12k, but that depends on where it's located and how clean it really is.

Welcome to the addiction of a 4WD variety!

J.D.

 

[Tito]

Not sure where you are located but check out the VIN stuff before you fall in love too much. How was it converted from a 70 to a 73? Does the VIN on the glove box door match the VIN on the Title and Frame? Depending on where you are located and if you end up selling it down the road it could come back to bite you if these numbers arent matching.

 

[grauerfam]

Welcome to the board! And nice looking Bronco. Assuming the engine and drivetrain are pretty much stock I would say it falls in the 6-8K range. If that body is as clean underneath as the top side looks maybe more. Look it over real close for rust issues. Door inserts = rusted out door post. Not always, unless it didn't originally come from California. A fellow member in your area might be up for a lookey see with you. Good luck!

 

[Bundy]

hey bud! welcome! i am a noob as well and have an 06GT mustang and a recently bought 68 EB, and i came here to learn just like you are.

i just bought my EB out by fresno, and i can tell you from my humble experience that in Cali the pricing is typically;

$1500-$3000 original 6cyl, rusted, prob not running
$3000-$5000 orig 6cyl, prob running with rust
$5000-$7500 V8 conversion, C4 auto, PS and PB usually upgraded but with lot's of miles and no real rust replacement done- a running beater if you will
$7500-$10K V8, axle swaps, PS, PB, maybe floorpans replaced with a decent paint job, lot's of aftermarket add-ons
$11K-$15K V8, axle swaps, PS, PB, maybe floorpans replaced with a nice paint job, stereo, creature comforts
$15K+ i didn't even look at, but they are usually tits and a$$

this doesn't take into account rock crawlers, and is pretty vague but it's what i saw on the market

 

[ILikeBond]

Hey, thanks everyone!

ok, so I'll spill the beans - asking price is $7,500, which seems pretty in line with what you all are saying, maybe a little high, especially if its kind of a random-parts project, as opposed to a more traditional restoration.

I'm not sure what he means by 1970 converted to 1973, I'm assuming he put 1973 body parts or styling cues on a 1970 frame. I'll definitely check the VINs, and the usual areas for rust. Thanks for the tip on the door inserts.

Also, great suggestion about taking someone who knows what they're doing! I know its a long shot, but if anyone has the time this Saturday, early afternoon to head out to the Stockton area and put her through the paces, look her over with me, I would be much obliged, and more than happy to donate a case of your favorite beer for the effort ;D ! Please feel free to PM me or email me directly at ilikebond@gmail.com. Btw, I'm in the San Jose area, and if anyone from the area is game, I'm happy to chauffer the whole way. You won't be disappointed by the Mustang...

/grovell

Does the 3 on the tree typically demand less? I would think it would, but maybe not. Is the best way to discover any problems with this just to drive it and see? I've read the stories about the gears getting locked up and etc.

Appreciate the quick responses everyone.. keep the advice coming!

 

[Tito]

I actually really liked the 3 on the tree, a lot of guys put it on the floor for ease but there is just something vintage about it. There are quite a few guys in the Stockton/San Jose area on here as well as a place you should also join up for some close to home interaction and support group go to www.norcalbroncos.com and you will find a real nice group of guys and gals. I actually might be in Stockton on Sat but cant count on it yet (have to talk to the wife). I am currently living in Bakersfield. I'll shoot you my info. 7500 doesnt sound too bad especially from CA, there arent a lot of upgrades but they have done the disc brakes so that is a good step. Main thing is how well it runs/cools and if there is rust. You live in a good spot, you are close to Wild Horses there in Stockton, a great place to shop for goodies for your Bronco!

 

[Explorer]

Not sure where you are located but check out the VIN stuff before you fall in love too much. How was it converted from a 70 to a 73? Does the VIN on the glove box door match the VIN on the Title and Frame? Depending on where you are located and if you end up selling it down the road it could come back to bite you if these numbers arent matching.

Transfer case is still a T-shift. I'd look real close.

 

[grauerfam]

The best thing it could have gotten from the 73 would be the Dana 44 front axle which will have ball joints instead of the king pins found on the 70's Dana 30. And power steering. And if the front axle was swapped the gear ratio needs to match the rear axle. I'd be up for looking at it with you - send a Limo to pick me up and get me on a Red Eye out to the coast! No really.

 

[76 bronco J]

Not sure where you are located but check out the VIN stuff before you fall in love too much. How was it converted from a 70 to a 73? Does the VIN on the glove box door match the VIN on the Title and Frame? Depending on where you are located and if you end up selling it down the road it could come back to bite you if these numbers arent matching.

>>>>>> here's one thread recently on how this glove box door swapping BS sucks ass even though lots of people on this board think it's all OK ..... never trust that easily swappable "warranty tag" as ford calls it without atleast trying to reading the frame VIN# stampings..... those who promote doing this & voice all over the net how there state doesn't check the frame #s on early broncos, just think how it would suck if someone put there glovebox door on your stolen rig ..... http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131556&highlight=VIN .............possible VIN frame # locations >>> http://groups.msn.com/6677BroncoPartsForSale/ebframevinlocations.msnw

 

[ILikeBond]

I actually really liked the 3 on the tree, a lot of guys put it on the floor for ease but there is just something vintage about it. There are quite a few guys in the Stockton/San Jose area on here as well as a place you should also join up for some close to home interaction and support group go to www.norcalbroncos.com and you will find a real nice group of guys and gals. I actually might be in Stockton on Sat but cant count on it yet (have to talk to the wife). I am currently living in Bakersfield. I'll shoot you my info. 7500 doesnt sound too bad especially from CA, there arent a lot of upgrades but they have done the disc brakes so that is a good step. Main thing is how well it runs/cools and if there is rust. You live in a good spot, you are close to Wild Horses there in Stockton, a great place to shop for goodies for your Bronco!

Hey, Tito, thanks for the tips! Looks like I can't PM yet (hrm), so please email me directly - ilikebond@gmail.com.

I appreciate everything else, too, I'm reading it all and will follow through with all the suggestions and advice. All this stuff so quickly - man, you guys really are good!

 

[sprdv1]

Sounds like a reasonable price.. Offer $7k... And WELCOME

 

[ILikeBond]

Thanks again for all the advice and the warm welcome!

I found another one I'll look at Saturday, too.

Its a '72 with a NP435 4-speed manual, a Dana 44 axle, power steering and upgraded brakes. It has the doors, hard top and back seat, which the owner says needs to be restored. I actually love the cream color, too, its got that retro feel to it, and subtler than the red (ironically, from the engine pictures it looks like the rig might have originally been red...).

The owner tells me the heater isn't working and the dash lights and gauges stopped working about a month ago. Sounds like a wiring issue, right? Probably best to replace the harness. Mileage is also unknown. Finally, he said there's a little rust under the hood and in the rear wheel wells. Hopefully it isn't a major issue.

Here's a couple pictures. From the pictures, I think the engine looks pretty decent, and owner says it runs great. Battery looks new(ish).

How's this one look to you guys? Are you noticing anything I'm not?

One question - is it worth getting one of these rigs checked out by a mechanic if I'm considering buying it? Normally buying a used car I'd want to, and I'm only an amateur wrench-turner at best (have done things on my Mustang like install exhaust, change out spark plugs, always change my own oil, installed cold air kit and other simple stuff, but nothing too major; I do have a basic understanding of the car's systems and how the engine works and etc.). But I'm wondering with these if its more of a what-you-see-is-what-you-get situation. In other words, is a mechanic going to be able to tell me anything that I can't determine by driving the car, feeling it, listening to it, looking for fluids, leaks, etc.? Do I need to have a compression test done or anything? These just seem simple enough that I'm not sure whether its really necessary to have a pro look at it, the way it might be if I was buying a 5-year old mercedes or something like that. %)

Thanks! Here's the pics!

 

[ILikeBond]

Just giving myself a shameless little bump... %)

 

[spreadmonkey]

Not sure where you are located but check out the VIN stuff before you fall in love too much. How was it converted from a 70 to a 73? Does the VIN on the glove box door match the VIN on the Title and Frame? Depending on where you are located and if you end up selling it down the road it could come back to bite you if these numbers arent matching.

YES, definitely check that. Especially if you want to drive it legitimately on the road. I had to return my first EB because I didn't check this until I had received it. Luckily the ebay seller took it back but I ate $500 in shipping costs, wire fees etc...

 

[ILikeBond]

YES, definitely check that. Especially if you want to drive it legitimately on the road. I had to return my first EB because I didn't check this until I had received it. Luckily the ebay seller took it back but I ate $500 in shipping costs, wire fees etc...

Thanks for the advice, monkey.

Can anyone tell me where to look on the frame for the VINs? I've seen pictures of the VIN on removed frame pieces, but not on an assembled rig. I'm assuming I need to get under and look with a flashlight sort of around the door area underneat, possibly under some mud or rust on the frame, depending on condition. That sound about right?

Anyone have any opinion on the white rig or advice about seeing a mechanic?

Thanks all!

 

[Explorer]

73stallion posted a vin location the other day. I like the Cream one better, but pic's wouldn't load completely. Drive it and check out the usual rust things. A compression check never hurts, you can tell a lot with a vacuum gauge if you know what you're looking at. Good luck.

 

[t.lay]

I like the look of the cream one plus the power steering, power brakes, and duraspark - check out the vin and bodywork closely (lots of rangers had chrome trim- looks like it's all been filled and all the stuff that made it a ranger is pretty much gone or a ranger glove box door/emblem added). Not a big deal unless the paint is hiding stuff or vin crap). Wiring could be a number of things from dash regulator, bad ground... doesn't necessarily need a harness - wiring under the hood looked like it was done neatly - no stray wires running all over the place.

 

[fatboy]

I would look at the floors of the cream one as well, since it looks like diamond plate was welded in up front. Not necessarily a bad thing but I would cral under it and take a good look. I would clarify the 70/73 thing as well, but I like the look of the red one better but not at the expense of legal registration issues.