New old bronco steering issues

[rlc91377]

Moved to TX 2 weeks ago from Maine and picked up a 1967 Bronco. Currently in temporary living and probably should have waited till we found a house with a garage but too late now. So I got the bronco running new carb, fixed rotten lines and now it is driveable but steers and handles like crap.

Should there be any play where the pitman arm attaches to the manual steering box? It twists and moves when someone sits in the vehicle and turns the wheel. Also it looks like the drop pitman is too much for the lift ( I think). I am going to try to attach a couple pics and video?

Anyone know of anyone in the area that works on these early bronco's? All my tools are in storage till we get in a house, its getting expensive buying every tool I need to fix each problem especially when I already own everything but it is in storage.

Thanks for the help,
Ryan

 

[Lmfp]

Bc broncos is in ingram north west of san antonio. That might be a bit far though.

 

[70_Steve]

Should there be any play where the pitman arm attaches to the manual steering box? It twists and moves when someone sits in the vehicle and turns the wheel. Also it looks like the drop pitman is too much for the lift ( I think). I am going to try to attach a couple pics and video?

Hi Ryan! Welcome to CB.com and congrats on the Bronco, even if the timing was a little off!!!

No, there should be no play at all anywhere in the steering. You did what is recommended to find steering issues by having someone turn the wheel while you check things out from underneath.

The splines on the steering box are tapered, so you should be able to eliminate some of the slop by just tightening up the nut. I Locktite that nut, because I've had it come loose on me once.

Also, an easy thing to do is to check the toe-in. Here's a link to a PDF that Chuck at BC Broncos put together, explaining a easy method that you can do in a parking lot to check and set the toe-in. http://www.bcbroncos.com/alignment.pdf

Also, play with the tire pressure. Too low a pressure will cause the tires to track the ruts in the road. Doesn't happen so much on concrete, but the blacktop roads will get ruts in them just like dirt, and the tires will pull to one side or the other depending on where the tire is in the rut.

 

[rlc91377]

Steve,
Thanks for the info, I'll try tightening it up. Also I have read a little bit about the drag link and trac bar being parallel? With the 4" drop pit man arm mine is not parallel, not sure if the lift kit is 2.5" or 3.5" I got no receipts or info on vehicle, guy was in the middle of restoring and had to move. Do they make a 2" drop pitman this would make it more parallel or is it better to raise the trac bar on the axle or lower on the frame?? The trac bar is adjustable. Also the drivers side tire seems to stick out 1" or so further then the passenger side I haven't measured from the frame but it looks off by eye for sure. Will this make them track weird?

Thanks again,
Ryan

 

[DirtDonk]

Hi Ryan. You can verify the height of your lift by measuring between the top of the front axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail. 7" is stock, so anything over that is your lift.

With any lift over 3", it's hard to get a pitman arm that has too much drop. If it's too far down, then maybe the trackbar angle was not modified to match. Sounds likely, since you say your bars are not parallel right now.
Pretty common actually, since a lot of people still think they can correct things with a dropped pitman arm and just an adjustable trackbar.
Adjustable is desired, but does nothing for the angles.

If you can find images here of a stock trackbar mounting bracket, you can see if yours is stock or dropped. A riser for the lower mount is more desirable, but even a drop for the upper mount is still a viable solution. Cheaper and less welding required, but not as strong and creates more stress on the frame.

If you have the chance too, might as well take it in to a shop and have them give you a full printout of your alignment readings. This is just so you know what you're dealing with. The most important is Caster angle. They're all important of course, but Caster can make or break a vehicle like this.

There are pitman arms with more or less drop than others, but without knowing what yours is, it's hard to find another one. They're all in about the 2.5" to 4" category, but that doesn't take into account the slight drop of the original arm. Most of the common arms are going to drop your draglink not more than about 3" over stock, if I'm not mistaken. So leave what you've got (unless it's some real monster drop that is) and make the trackbar angle match the current draglink angle instead.
Maybe take a pic for us to see?

To upload an image, you either have to be a contributor (small paid subscription) or post the image to one of the free hosting sites and then post up a link to it here.
A good picture is worth a lot when it comes to diagnosing a problem remotely.

Good luck. Keep smilin'. And have fun!

Paul

 

[70_Steve]

[https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.p...8130137624.2106711.1073686862&type=3&theater]

Hmmm.... Link no workie...?:?

 

[70_Steve]

Steve,
Thanks for the info, I'll try tightening it up. Also I have read a little bit about the drag link and trac bar being parallel? With the 4" drop pit man arm mine is not parallel, not sure if the lift kit is 2.5" or 3.5" I got no receipts or info on vehicle, guy was in the middle of restoring and had to move. Do they make a 2" drop pitman this would make it more parallel or is it better to raise the trac bar on the axle or lower on the frame?? The trac bar is adjustable. Also the drivers side tire seems to stick out 1" or so further then the passenger side I haven't measured from the frame but it looks off by eye for sure. Will this make them track weird?

Thanks again,
Ryan

The easy answer is to say "make the track bar and drag link parallel", but it turns out this is only correct if the track bar and drag link are the same length. This might help explain. http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.html

Since I ripped the frame running a dropped track bar bracket, I vote (and did!) a raised axle bracket. Much easier to make it sturdy.

The adjustable track bar adjusts the length, so you can center the front axle to the frame. Notice I said "frame", not body. I use a plumb bob and string, and measure from the frame to the inside lip of the wheel. Don't be fooled by making measurements referenced to the body. The body could be an inch or more off-center from the frame. I just rebuilt/replaced my entire front suspension, and in the process found out the front clip is off-center by a full inch at the grill. The rockers are dead on, but the front is shifted to the drivers side.

 

[Banjer Picker]

Welcome to the forum Ryan. Sounds like others have given you a solid starting point. Looks like you're in Plano. I'm right around the corner from you in Dallas (I-635/Josey Ln area). Give me a shout if you want to hook up to turn a wrench or drink a beer. I'm much better at the beer thing, but w/ all the great input from the guys on the forum I've definitely been able to improve my skills!

Shamu is around the corner from you as well. Very cool and talented guy.

 

[rlc91377]

Update: There was a lot of slop where the pitman arm mounts to the steering box so added a washer to push it further on which helps some but still a little play, shaft looked OK so I will order a new drop pitman arm. Should the shaft in the steering box move up and down at all? Mine does a small amount, it still has the manuall steering. I pulled off the steering stablizer because it was at such an angle to the drag link that it just didn't look right and actually doesn't handle any worse without it. The only thing that has gone smooth is adding seat belts with shoule harness so I can put the kids booster seats in. Kids love it now I just got to get it to handle good enough so I can actually take it over 45mph. Update soon to come!

 

[rlc91377]

Image of front end

Hopefully I figured out how to get a picture posted! If so any comments on what is messed up will be appreciated. Note: Steering stabalizer has been removed since the photo was taken.

 

[Sabas]

check the bolts that attach the steering box to the frame, they may need to be tightened

Sabas

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Almost looks like you could get away with a stock pitman arm to get things right. I think Shamu would be a great help and he's pretty close to you. PM him!

 

[shamu]

Almost looks like you could get away with a stock pitman arm to get things right. I think Shamu would be a great help and he's pretty close to you. PM him!

I am famous Ryan I shot you my phone # and you should have a easy fix. Welcome to the site and ring me tomorrow.

 

[rlc91377]

I thought I had the steering wabble all figured out. Drop pitman arm had tons of slop (all worn out) so I replaced and the steering is tight. Took it for a ride now the wabble is amplified 5 times what it was with the sloppy steering. Put it back in the garage (yes finally out of temporary living and in a house with a garage) and removed the track bar because the front end set to far over the passenger side so I adjusted the track bar and everything is centered. started putting the bolt that holds the trac bar to the frame in and noticed it was too small-put in correct size bolt and everything is tight but guess what same issue. AhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhNeed help, Any ideas?

 

[Bajabrewer]

Check your front wheel bearings & make sure they are adjusted right - I had that help my steering issues once.

 

[Pa PITT]

Welcome aboard Ryan .. There plenty of Bronco Buddies that'll give you a hand or at least some advise.

 

[rlc91377]

Wheel bearings are good. 33" goodyear tires are almost new.

 

[DirtDonk]

Better get that angle on the trackbar fixed at least. And no, your pitman arm is not too deep for the lift. Not by a long shot. Your trackbar angle just needs to be adjusted.
Doubt it's going to do anything for the wobble (though you never know!), but it's clearly not aligned with the draglink anymore since the dropped pitman arm was used without the corresponding trackbar drop or riser brackets.

And by the way... What wobble? Did I miss something? I re-read most of the posts, and don't see any specific mention of a wobble.
Can you describe it in detail please?

So even while you're figuring out your wobble, taking car of the trackbar angle is something you can do to improve your overall road manners for when you drive it again.
Pretty much the same as I said in my first post (#5), but now confirmed after seeing the picture.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Btw, does his draglink look bent to you guys? It does from here.
I'm so used to seeing the adjustable aftermarket ones that do have a slight tweak down there, that I've forgotten just how straight a stock one is supposed to be. Seems to me it's pretty darn straight. Which means yours is pretty bent. Or is that one an adjustable type, and I just can't see the adjuster sleeve behind the stabilizer shock?
If stock, then I'd say it needs to be replaced too. With a bent rod and the lift (even with the dropped pitman arm) your steering is going to be slightly off most likely.
Is your steering wheel crooked when you're driving straight?

Between a bent arm, steep angle, very mismatched trackbar-to-draglink angle, and anything else that might be going on, you've got a bit of work to do still.
Fun fun!

Also do what Steve (I think?) said and check your toe-in, tire pressure, and do the full test again where you turn the wheel back and forth while watching all the components.
Basically, get every component optimized, or "blueprinted" so to speak, before you do anything else.

Paul

 

[rlc91377]

Thanks for the info, I have a drop bracket just need to install it, does the drop bracket just bolt over the factory bracket?
One thing I did notice when looking at parts online is that my trac bar doesn't have a lock nut on it. Is this required to lock it in place? While adjusting the trac bar there is some slop in the threads without a lock nut.

-Ryan