New Roll cage design, what you all think??

[DonsBolt]

After driving at the end of last summer with no top, I have decided to ditch my half cab idea, and build a cage.

Instead of doing a cage like everyone else has, I came up with a new idea. The cage I am going to build will also double as the frame for a soft top. Sort of like Chucks top, but the frame will be be totally structural.

On top of each quarter panel, I will make 1/4 plates to bolt to the top, using the factory holes allready there. Might even make two posts to go into the holes in the rear corners. The main hoop, and the rear hoop will be welded to the plate ontop of the quarter panels. On the bottom side of each of those hoop I will weld U shaped bars that will connect each hoop, and be bolted to the body mounts, like Gordon does with his cages.

The front will be another U shaped hoop, welded to the main hoop(behind the front seats) with a metal plate welded behind the front part of the hoop, with holes so it can bolt to the windshield using the factory gasket. From there I will also weld bars from the front of the hoop, to the floor on the drivers and passengers floor. Also on at least the front half of the cage, make a rain guter, and tabs for the factory weatherstrip around the doors.

I figure the quater panels are pretty strong, and with the extra U shape hoops, running across the floor, connecting the main.rear hoop, and being tied into the body mounts it will be a strong design. Since my old roll bar was bolted to the rear wheel wells, and there are holes there anyways, why not make two bars to use those holes, and make it a bit stronger.

If I make the cage the exact same demensions of one of the soft tops out there, I can then use that top (with some minor modifications) over the cage

So here are some drawings I did, let me know your ideas. Both Pros and Cons

 

[bax]

Don, you know I like the idea. Do you think the bars over the bed rails will be the way to go? I was wondering if a standoff could be built to attach to a ''standard position" roll bar. this standoff would go over the bed rail and be the frame for the sides. It would snap to the standoffs. could you also not attach to the bed rail at all? The side structure could be built into the canvas top going from standoff to standoff. the back part of the cage could easily be the back of the soft top. keep thinking. It's a good one off idea.

 

[sprdv1]

I luve the idea Don, hope it works out..!

 

[DonsBolt]

Hey Roger
I don't think I want to do any stand offs, but appreciate the idea

I thought about welding some sheet metal over the front section, but then I have no idea how to make the canvas work on the rear section. Or I could allways weld some metal over the whole top. Then I could make some canvas and vinal side and rear windows. I also am thinking about closing in the area behind the door, up to the main hoop.

Though if I built a C strip onto the front edge of the cage, I could do a soft top. I just have to look at some of the after market soft tops, and get some ideas or measurements.

I hope I never roll my truck or put it on it's side, but if I do I am more concerned about me than the Bronco. Though evey roll orver, or tip over I have ever seen pictures of the body was pretty much toasted anyways.
I am leaning how to use the line feture in my editing software, never knew I had it. When I do the cage I plan to make a pair of removable bars to attach harnesses to, they will also help protect me, my passengers, and at the same time add some rigidity to the body. They are green in my new drawing. I may also add some bars that connect the main hoop to the rear hoop, right along the wheel wells, in orange

The only other thing I have to figure out, is how to attach the legs from the front of the cage that go infront of the dash. Maybe a little cross bar- Blue

 

[Tito]

Love the idea, you know I've been delving into the concept for a couple years as well. Things slowed down when I moved to CA though.

So here is what I see and what would be pretty easy to do in my mind (canvas wise)

Take that steel tubular cage you have going (I run the quarter guards and they would be perfect to build off of), include a drip rail/slide channel like on the front of the soft tops that slip into a channel (I think Kayline) that run along both lengths of the upper bar to slide the canvas into then it would snap onto the mini riser (not sure how you see it attaching to that part). Basically this would create the top/safari portion. To make it taught there could be 2 inner bars that slid up a rail on the cage and locked into position at the B and C pillars to stretch the fabric (adjustability could be built in here). Then the sides could be on horizontal channels like the top with a velcro/snap enclosure at front and rear bars. The velcro actually does a decent job of keeping moisture out in my experience. The upper corners of the cage would be cool with metal welded into them, would make for a good mounting point for racks, etc.

Here is a pic of camomog's old Bronco with a similar cage design and a soft top under it.

 

[bax]

OK Don what about this. Say the middle and rear hoops are the same and stop at / on the bed rails. Then a piece of say, 1 x 2 angle or bent steel runs the length of the bed rail and the two hoops will land on them the angle is bolted to the bedrail using the factory holes. Then under the bed rail there are 4 hoop "extensions" that will install directly under the 4 hoop legs, capable of transferring the load to the bed of the truck. This gets the 2 hoops out where you want them and gives you a base to attach the side canvas.
We will get this a little at a time.

 

[DonsBolt]

Do you have a picture of you quarter guards ??
I have seen pics of that truck before, and it is sorta what gave me the idea

I have to run out, will check back later, and post my idea on my rain gutter, the more I think about it, would just be over the front

 

[DonsBolt]

OK Don what about this. Say the middle and rear hoops are the same and stop at / on the bed rails. Then a piece of say, 1 x 2 angle or bent steel runs the length of the bed rail and the two hoops will land on them the angle is bolted to the bedrail using the factory holes. Then under the bed rail there are 4 hoop "extensions" that will install directly under the 4 hoop legs, capable of transferring the load to the bed of the truck. This gets the 2 hoops out where you want them and gives you a base to attach the side canvas.
We will get this a little at a time.

I thought about doing hoop extensions under the bed rail. My thoughts in a roll what would happen if the bolts all snapped?? The way I drew it out there would be both the bolts, and the welded on extensions connecting each hoop together. That would give me two squage boxes for each hoop, 14-16 bolts on the bedrail, and 4 bolts through the floor, to the frame.

 

[Dan's73]

I like where this is heading....I'd love to see a cage that could simply be "skinned" with an existing soft top. If I didn't already have a mile-long list of things already started and not near finished, this would go to the top (pun intended)!

 

[fatboy]

I thought about doing hoop extensions under the bed rail. My thoughts in a roll what would happen if the bolts all snapped?? The way I drew it out there would be both the bolts, and the welded on extensions connecting each hoop together. That would give me two squage boxes for each hoop, 14-16 bolts on the bedrail, and 4 bolts through the floor, to the frame.

Don I like the idea that I think Bax is saying. My concern with the b and c bars mounting to the bed edge via the plate and then a 90 degree "elbow" welded to the bar and transfered to the bed/ frame tie in is that I would be afraid in a wheels up (truck on its roof) position the bars would not hold the weight and would crush the quarters down, but I could be totally wrong. I do have a Kayline on the 74 and you are free to take a lookk and the front lip for attachment as Tito suggests and even take some measurements for potential fitment.

 

[bax]

Just trying to help. dont want to fight over this one.;D

 

[bax]

My idea was more of a way to continue the bearing load to the floor / frame and still keep the bars / hoop over the bed rail. I dont think it would shear off because it is tied to the steel bed rail plate and the bed rail Plus the 2 hoops would be connected front to back.

 

[fatboy]

My idea was more of a way to continue the bearing load to the floor / frame and still keep the bars / hoop over the bed rail. I dont think it would shear off because it is tied to the steel bed rail plate and the bed rail Plus the 2 hoops would be connected front to back.

Bearing load, that's what I was looking for!

Don, if you want we can even pull the top off the frame on my Kayline if that would help you out. Working on welding up some body panels anyway right now so she aint going anywhere.

 

[fatboy]

I thought about doing hoop extensions under the bed rail. My thoughts in a roll what would happen if the bolts all snapped?? The way I drew it out there would be both the bolts, and the welded on extensions connecting each hoop together. That would give me two squage boxes for each hoop, 14-16 bolts on the bedrail, and 4 bolts through the floor, to the frame.

Just had an idea, scary but hey...what if you did both? Contiue the load bearing under the lip like Bax said und use instead of a 90 degree run a fully welded "U" shape tieing in the upper tube to the lower tube, that way you get the load bearing and not likely to shear the bolts then.

 

[DonsBolt]

Hey Pete
I see what you and Roger are saying, I will think about how to strenghten up the bed rail. I am open to sugestions

I do have holes where the old roll bar used to be, so maybe I can do both . Under the bed rail 4 hoop "extensions to the holes from my old roll bar, and the way I drew it out to the body mounts

 

[RajinCajun]

Looks good, think about some sort of cross bracing. I put mine behind the front seats. Are there better ideas, yes, but I weighted the pros and cons, i wanted access to the back without going in through the back. The lines are not perfect because I just tied to my existing half cab cage, but it will work

http://www.texasoffroad.net/galleries/ohv/album486

 

[Hal9000]

I thought about doing hoop extensions under the bed rail. My thoughts in a roll what would happen if the bolts all snapped??

Running hoop extensions under the bed rails is the only thing I was going to suggest as a design change. For strength, just slug the upper section with a piece of tubing that would telescope into the lower section through the center of the bolt flange. That way the only load the bolts would have to carry all on their own would be upward tension (and I doubt you'll be hanging your eb by the roll cage anytime soon).


I like the idea and have been thinking about doing the same thing for years. Probably won't ever get around to it.