New to us 1972 Bronco - Making a Bronco a Driver

[danroot]

Proud new owners of a wonderfully built 1972 Bronco. Running a 302 with 4brl card and AOD transmission. Wife and I want to make it more of a driver. Right now it's very much oversprung and overdampened on the suspension.

Things on our list to do:

Install FI (Probably Holley Snipper 2)
Install wheels/tires that fit inside the fenders
Lower it a bit, might be removing the 2" body lift or maybe springs might also lower it enough.

It's such a great Bronco and we feel so lucky we snagged it. It was definitely built to show and not drive. The suspension is so stiff it makes it hard to drive and sometimes control on the street. There is almost no suspension articulation. the whole Bronco just rocks back and forth or just bounces and jumps over even small bumps. We want to put miles on it so that'll have to change.

-Dan

 

[danroot]

Tried to post a picture from the gallery, not working:

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/media/1972-bronco-1-jpg.32728/

 

[Pops68]

SPEND THE $12 TO BECOME A CONTRIBUTOR TO THE SITE AND IT IS RELATIVELY EASY TO POST PICS (even I can do it!!!). Helps to support the site also.

 

[danroot]

SPEND THE $12 TO BECOME A CONTRIBUTOR TO THE SITE AND IT IS RELATIVELY EASY TO POST PICS (even I can do it!!!). Helps to support the site also.

Thanks, just upgraded.

 

[tasker]

WHAT'S the braking on it?

 

[serial car restorer]

Nice. Love seeing these driven more, and shown less.

Don't remove the body lift until you verify hood clearance for the Sniper and what looks like a large-cap HEI distributor. Those distributors tend to be quite tall.

 

[danroot]

Power brakes, unknown disc in front, likely stock drum in the rear.

Roger that on hood/engine clearance. There appears to be stock rubber body to frame mounts and 2" stacked on top. Doesn't seem correct to have both, maybe just removing the stock mounts and leaving in the 2" would be okay?

 

[danroot]

Engine bay:

 

[SGM_JakeAlex]

Nice ride. Love how neat and sanitary it is under the hood. #goals

Personally I would come closer to removing the 2in BL before I'd remove the body bushings. Would think only leaving the 2in BL would harden the ride. As others have said, you want to make sure there wasn't a reason for the 2in BL first as it may have been needed for clearance under the hood. 2in BL also seems to be the norm as it adds much needed clearance to work on items underneath the vehicle, which may have been the reason it was added. Hopefully it just needs driven a good bit to break everything in and let things settle/soften up.

 

[SLOWnEASY]

Congratulations that's a really clean Bronco. Almost makes me want to hang my head and take down the underhood pictures of mine. Kidding about my pictured of course.

 

[ba123]

Congrats and welcome!

You need the rubber bushings on the body. If the lift is metal, you cannot just use that! And yes, like said, verify fit before you lower the body.

Check the rear tire clearance. The suspension might be stiff because those tires might rub. It might also be about finding the right wheels if the offset isn't ideal on those (and not saying it isn't but just a thought before you go throwing money at an answer you think will make you happy but might not).

I do think it looks nice just how it is, but another option...you might like what they call a LUBR Bronco (Lifted Uncut), but it's also an option to cut and install flares for more options on those wheels and ride height.

Lots to think about and if I were you, I'd spend a lot of time trolling this forum and elsewhere being sure of what might make you happy before doing anything that isn't certain.

 

[Doyle]

Nice looking Bronco. I'm not sure about the AOD but several of the tranny swaps need the body lift.

 

[ba123]

Nice looking Bronco. I'm not sure about the AOD but several of the tranny swaps need the body lift.

Great point. Yeah, I think it needs 1”.

 

[DirtDonk]

Those tires look quite tall. What size are they exactly?
And if they are 16 inch tires/wheels, that probably contributes to the ride harshness because most of them are rated for heavy use.
Doesn’t look like they are overinflated, judging by the coverage of dirt on the tread, but you can check that also. If the max pressure is rated at 65, you probably don’t want more than 30 in the front and 25 in the rear on a bronco. But it’s hard to say from way out here. Only trial and error will find the perfect set up.
Have any pictures of the suspension and shocks? Good shot of the front coils and rear leaf packs?
Thanks for becoming a contributor!

 

[danroot]

Tires are 31x10.5x15's, don't like how they stick out past the fenders. It's going to damage the paint over time. They are American Racing Baja rims and I have a test rim coming in at a local tire store. If the test rim fits under the rear fender, then I'll get tires that do the same. Probably move down to 235/75/15's or similar.

Very good info guys, thanks!

The AOD, was just guessing. I need to write down numbers and identify everything. I know the transmission has 4 speeds and right now, 70mph is about 2100rpm which is wonderful.

Also fairly certain the Wild Horses springs are 3.5" lift based on the measurement from bottom of frame to top of axle. Was told stock was about 7" and I'm measuring just over 10".

Love the look of the Bronco as well, but it's a little scary at speed. It really bounces and jumps over bumps. The suspension really needs a little less spring rate and dampen rate.

 

[SLOWnEASY]

Definitely check your tire pressure as that can cause some bounce as well. I think I run 28 front and rear in mine and I get pretty even tire wear. Be aware these pressures people talk about are for a cold tire. As you start driving the tire heat will build up and pressure will climb. Either park it for a few hours before checking or check the pressure first thing in the morning.

 

[ba123]

The AOD, was just guessing. I need to write down numbers and identify everything. I know the transmission has 4 speeds and right now, 70mph is about 2100rpm which is wonderful.

Could be AOD, AODE, 4r70W (all different versions of the same trans but the last two are computer controlled).

Keep in mind that changing your tire from 31" will change your rpms higher from where they are with 31" ties. You might be a just under 2500 RPM to go 70 with that tire change. From your numbers, I'm guessing if AOD and a 0.67 final drive, you've got 4.56 gears or thereabouts.

A good calc I like to use it this one: https://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

[eb-nutt1]

It definitely has the 2" body, doubt seriously that is a 3.5" suspension if those are truly 31" tires...I have a 2.5" sus/1" body on my uncut with 33x10.50-15 and the top of my rear tires are right at the fender lip...you can do away with the 2" body lift/mount combo for the integrated 1" body lift mounts and clear the HEI style distributor, as that's what I run.

Brian

 

[danroot]

Still discovering what's under the hood and basic running gear. I can't figure out what transmission I'm running, still thinking it's an AOD (not electronic controlled). Bad picture below:

 

[danroot]

Based on Firing order, the block is a Post 1994 302 with Edelbrock heads. They have casting 1660-1 on both and "Edelbrock Performer RPM" cast into both. Paired with an Edelbrock 500CFM 4bl and MSD Dist. Thinking this might be a crate engine from Summit or Jegs? I can't find a S/N on the block. Still figuring the engine out.

Here's a picture of the tag on the transfer case: