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New wiring harness. Questions about the old.

Flying Pigs

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Joined
Oct 29, 2018
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69
Loc.
Elgin, IL
The harness that was in the rig was out when it was repainted. They put it back in and it was freshly re taped and looked awesome but there was some repair areas under the dash and who knows what is going on. Im replacing it.

Neutral safety switch is missing...I searched and found it could be on the column...is this also the reverse lights? I seen something about a batch of bad NSS. still a problem? The column is not the original...is there supposed to be a bracket to mount NSS?

The tail light harness is new. I found this connector (picture far left) tucked up and not plugged into anything...its part of the rear harness. is this for the NSS? Thank you
 

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DirtDonk

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That does look nice! But it's not an original harness. Wonder what it is?
The first connector on the left should be under the hood. The others look that way too. Is this under the dash, or under the hood that we're looking?

NSS is not on the column in an Early Bronco. It's on the side of the C4 automatic down where the shift lever is.

What year is your Bronco?

Paul
 
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Flying Pigs

Flying Pigs

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Loc.
Elgin, IL
That does look nice! But it's not an original harness. Wonder what it is?
The first connector on the left should be under the hood. The others look that way too. Is this under the dash, or under the hood that we're looking?

NSS is not on the column in an Early Bronco. It's on the side of the C4 automatic down where the shift lever is.

What year is your Bronco?

Paul

It is a 73 and the wires were all hooked up to the harness coming out of the firewall on the Dr side except the first connector on the left. When I went to take a picture noticed the second connector had purple wires also. It threw me so I took a picture of all wires. I back tracked and the second was connected to the harness. I have no idea where the tail light harness is from as it is not marked every 6 inches and at first, thought maybe the original connectors were reused....those look new too.

The fuse box looks real good also but unfortunately there was repairs under the dash and I would rather be safe than sorry.

i included more pics of the proportioning valve? I read that it really isnt a proportioning valve somewhere and more of a sensor for the dash light. In the forth picture the single wire is just wrapped around the brake lines.

Thank you guys..I will post a couple of issues that are there.
 

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Flying Pigs

Flying Pigs

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Oct 29, 2018
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69
Loc.
Elgin, IL
This is a small harness from the center hole....just to the left of accelerator linkage. it was 4 wires and only 2 wires emerge from the tape job. What is it? It is in the 2nd and 5th pictures and attaches to a black square 4 place connector (3rd and 4th pic)

Trans linkage in the 6th picture. NSS and reverse connect here?

The top oval black 2 place connector in the 1st pic had nothing connected to it coming into the engine compartment...red wire coming from the connector on the inside of firewall was not connected to any thing.....the red wire to the tach was hooked into it but it didnt go anywhere...tach worked....2 wires connected...ground and neg side of coil.

The 4th picture is the top view of the 1st pic. The electrical connector was crimped to a green wire which I believe is an ignition source. I think the last 2 items are due to Fitech modification.
 

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rguest3

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Dec 13, 2012
Messages
3,780
1st / 3rd / 4th Picture - Red Plug: Goes to engine in one, small 3-wire harness.

Oil Pressure Sender from Drivers Side block to Gauge Pod.
Engine Temp Sender From Driver's Side Front intake Manifold to Gauge Pod
Distributor + Ignition Wire

1st / 2nd / 5th Picture: Black Plug - Looks like Reverse Light Switch to Steering Column with Manual Shift.

3rd / 4th Picture: Black plug looks like NSS / Reverse for Automatic.
 

DirtDonk

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Your '73 would not originally have come with a proportioning valve, which is likely why you're getting conflicting reports of what you have. But your original "H-block" distribution block has been swapped out for an aftermarket proportioning/combination valve and mounted down near where an original from '76 and '77 would have been.

The original switch on the valve would have had two wires, but the new ones all have a single wire. The original two under the hood would get spliced together to the one wire out of the switch connector.

Your '73 would also have had the wiring for a neutral safety switch because automatic transmissions were an option.
Looks like yours was originally a manual, and now has an automatic of some kind?
A manual transmission would have had the NSS wires (2 Red w/blue wires) simply jumpered at that connector on the engine side. Thus completing the circuit at all times to allow the starter to crank.

The same switch houses the 2 Black w/red wires for the backup lamps. The backup lamp switch would have been strapped to the lower end of the steering column where the reverse shift lever could push on it when in reverse.

In your case, pics #2 and #5 in post #6 show what's left of a manual transmission reverse light switch.
In post #4, pic #3 show's what's left of a Brake Warning Lamp from the dashboard.

Paul
 
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Flying Pigs

Flying Pigs

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Oct 29, 2018
Messages
69
Loc.
Elgin, IL
1st / 3rd / 4th Picture - Red Plug: Goes to engine in one, small 3-wire harness.

Oil Pressure Sender from Drivers Side block to Gauge Pod.
Engine Temp Sender From Driver's Side Front intake Manifold to Gauge Pod
Distributor + Ignition Wire

I have the connector and only 2 wires emerge from the nicely taped harness. First 2 are the oil press sender and temp sender. I see the 3rd wire in the Fitech setup for + Distributor and the crimped spade connected to green is ignition. they come from outside the harness but are there

1st / 2nd / 5th Picture: Black Plug - Looks like Reverse Light Switch to Steering Column with Manual Shift.

Your observation is my ah ha moment. Why the column was changed... why NSS and reverse lights are missing. Conversion from manual to automatic. THANK YOU.

3rd / 4th Picture: Black plug looks like NSS / Reverse for Automatic.

The trans pan looks like I can see barely in the shadow of reflections of light the word metric and I believe that is an AOD TRans...long pause for research..The switch is on the trans and works internally which I consider to be a plus as long as I can find the correct harness. Preliminary findings for now.



.
 

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Flying Pigs

Flying Pigs

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Elgin, IL
Your '73 would not originally have come with a proportioning valve, which is likely why you're getting conflicting reports of what you have. But your original "H-block" distribution block has been swapped out for an aftermarket proportioning/combination valve and mounted down near where an original from '76 and '77 would have been.

The original switch on the valve would have had two wires, but the new ones all have a single wire. The original two under the hood would get spliced together to the one wire out of the switch connector.

Your '73 would also have had the wiring for a neutral safety switch because automatic transmissions were an option.
Looks like yours was originally a manual, and now has an automatic of some kind?
A manual transmission would have had the NSS wires (2 Red w/blue wires) simply jumpered at that connector on the engine side. Thus completing the circuit at all times to allow the starter to crank.

The same switch houses the 2 Black w/red wires for the backup lamps. The backup lamp switch would have been strapped to the lower end of the steering column where the reverse shift lever could push on it when in reverse.

In your case, pics #2 and #5 in post #6 show what's left of a manual transmission reverse light switch.
In post #4, pic #3 show's what's left of a Brake Warning Lamp from the dashboard.

Paul

When I bought the Bronco. there was alot of questions that were unanswered. The owner sold it to a dealer and this guy was having trouble answering my questions. At one point. Im not a body man so made sure that was solid and I know that if I know what something is called...It can be fixed.
Life teaches where your not is just as important as where you are.

Paul. thanks for you time and wisdom. Alot of good stuff to put in the journal.

The front brakes have been converted to disk brakes and the rear are still drums. The vacuum power brake booster has been added. There is a couple projects here that were done short of completion. They did do all the time consuming stuff so Im not complaining!

So I ordered the Ron Francis Harness to start and ready to start wiring.

Stopped by the junk yard today to look for a possible idea for something. All these cars are parked everywhere and there was this pile. I call it, "Rode hard and left to die."
 

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Flying Pigs

Flying Pigs

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Loc.
Elgin, IL
I have a bundle of wires from the centech harness that were grouped together and is confusing. I have a low speed motor wire that is white and a dome wire that is white. Also, I have a ground and a park wire that are black.

I originally thought that the black and white connector was the dome and now I think the connectors are all for the wiper and they took power from the wiper to power the light and dome wire stays down for adding courtesy lights later?

Then which is ground and which is park....Im thinking they are both grounds but not an electrical expert.

Thank you,

Things are going well except there is a lot of cussing trying to get wires to the switches.....The ignition switch needs to be reinvented badly....I can click the halfs together with no problem outside the dash. Try and put it in the dash and click it together.....HA HA HA....it still is not in.
 

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DirtDonk

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Did you by any chance get all new stuff for the ignition switch? Including the chrome bezel and all that? If so, "there's your problem right there..." as they say.
Haven't heard too many complaints lately, but it was only a matter of time. A couple of years ago we went through lots of hair pulling to get them to work.
Part of the problem is the spring, part of the problem is the chrome bezel, and part of the problem can be a painted/coated dash board.
If you have all three, let us know and we'll start that discussion. Some here have fixed it, so maybe they'll remember what they did. I'll have suggestions, but before I do that I'll call my friend that went through this about a month ago so it should be fresh in his memory.

Dome light wires are for the dome light only. They don't (or should not at least) share any duties with the wiper system.
First, make sure your windshield frame is well grounded. If in doubt, run your own ground wire somewhere hidden between it and the rest of the body.
I once hid a short jumper (mostly) under the rubber weatherstripping there at the door, and grounded the windshield frame, body tub, and dash panel all in one fell swoop. Voilá! Working wipers!;D

But in your case, you may not know until you get the rest of the wires sorted. Do you have the instructions handy? Are you using the Centech wiper switch, or the factory switch?
The "Park" is not a ground, so don't treat it as such by connecting it to metal. It simply has 12v when the switch is OFF so that the motor does not stop with the wipers in the middle of the windshield.
And in some cases, one of the speeds will not work for testing unless you have all the wires connected. Pretty sure the Park wire "acts" as a ground to the switch when it's turned on, but that's just guessing. I do not have a diagram in front of me at the moment. In other words, I'm too lazy and impatient to look it up for you at the moment!%);)

I'll see what I can come up with if nobody else does first though.

Paul
 
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Flying Pigs

Flying Pigs

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The Centech description at JBG in one sentence states that there is a replacement ignition and in the next that you reuse your ignition. There was no ignition in the kit. The ignition switch looks pretty clean as compared to the wiper switch so I imagine that it has been replaced probably during the hair pulling time frame that your referencing. Im not stuck on it, I just have to revisit it and hunker down and eventually there will be a victory, a celebration, a parade, and a new install technique named in my honor or my ignition will simple dangle.

Are you saying a new switch could solve the problem or is still a problem?

Back in the day, a person collected books because there was no Internet. Now with the Internet, you can download all the manufacturer's install manuals and compare. I pulled up parts and in the pic it has the harness attached to the wiper. There are 5 wires and I have 5 wires going up the window frame but ground can run to the window frame.

Problem, The lone light on the wiper cover in the interior works by turning the headlight switch. My wiper had 2 speeds and parked before the install.

The AAW manual states there is 4 wires, low speed, high speed, return, and park. The Centech manual says there is a SPECIAL ground wire for fiberglass windshield frames. The ground is not there in a factory harness so it just goes to ground.

The dome wire is white so I imagine it goes to that single connector in the harness although it is black. Im betting Ground is the frame.

Bottom line, Im guessing...I have to pull the cover and see whats going on.

Back in the day, I would have not hesitated to take the cover off and look but because the harness looks untouched, thought there was going to be an easy answer. There is the backward action of the ignition switch still haunting me.

Thanks Paul...I truly appreciate your time and wisdom.
 

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DirtDonk

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The Centech description at JBG in one sentence states that there is a replacement ignition and in the next that you reuse your ignition. There was no ignition in the kit.

Centech offers two kits. One has their own switch (which is nothing like a factory switch and a big pain to integrate) and one with the adapter to run their wiring harness to your old (or a new factory style) ignition switch.
This latter one is the more desirable for future replacements if nothing else.

The ignition switch looks pretty clean as compared to the wiper switch so I imagine that it has been replaced probably during the hair pulling time frame that your referencing.

That's good. As long as the switch is working properly, hopefully t won't throw any ghost gremlins at you while your'e working on things.

Are you saying a new switch could solve the problem or is still a problem?

I was referring to the wiper switch. I thought I remembered a new one that came with the harness that was more appropriate to the wiring? If not, maybe they expect you to use the factory one, which is fine too.
I'm pretty sure Tom's has the full Centech instructions available on their site. I'm glad someone took the time to scan them to PDF format! But they're available in multiple places here on classicbroncos as well.
Did you get the two-part instructions with your kit? One says installation manual I think, and the other says some variation on that like installation tips, or similar. Did you get those?

Back in the day, a person collected books because there was no Internet. Now with the Internet, you can download all the manufacturer's install manuals and compare. I pulled up parts and in the pic it has the harness attached to the wiper. There are 5 wires and I have 5 wires going up the window frame but ground can run to the window frame.

I hear you. I've got a ton of books that I'd either like to organize, sell or throw away!
Which instructions did you look at? Ford might be different from Centech, which might be different from AAW, etc.
Nevermind, I see below that you have them.

Problem, The lone light on the wiper cover in the interior works by turning the headlight switch. My wiper had 2 speeds and parked before the install.

Why is that a problem, and why are they related?

The AAW manual states there is 4 wires, low speed, high speed, return, and park.

They word "return" may be AAW-speak for "ground" or it may be something else. Wiper wiring is still part voodoo sometimes.

The Centech manual says there is a SPECIAL ground wire for fiberglass windshield frames. The ground is not there in a factory harness so it just goes to ground.

You can compare one manual to another, but I would not etch anything in stone unless it's from the manufacturer of the harness you're using. Not everyone is the same, although I can't say that with regard to the wipers for sure. Just that it's possible.
Don't worry about any additional wording regarding fiberglass frames unless you have a fiberglass frame. It means nothing at this point unless you do.
Except to remind you that grounds are critical and that in the case of an old Bronco, you may have to add one anyway. The metal-to-metal contact that they took for granted when new, is no longer your friend and you need to add grounding wires to multiple locations on your rig.
More on that in a bit in fact...

From the factory, the windshield frame was "bonded" (in ground-speak) to the system through the metal contact with the body tub. But that's not always good enough 40 to 50 years later. So with 50 years of added paint, rusted panels, broken welds and dirty threads, an additional ground wire of your own making is never a bad idea.

If Centech provided one though, use it.

The dome wire is white so I imagine it goes to that single connector in the harness although it is black. Im betting Ground is the frame.

Don't worry about colors. Only function.
I'm pretty sure that the circuit color is different because the light was made with pretty generic wiring right at the light. Especially if it was added or changed at a later date. The main harness would have had the specific factory color, but since the connector only fits one way, there was no need to pay more for colored wire at the rarely used optional lamp.

And remember too, that all the Centech wires are GM colors, which is why nothing is going to match except maybe by chance. This is why the descriptions are printed on all wires and should be heeded. And sometimes interpreted too. As is the case with the horn wiring!

Yes, grounding to the frame/body/battery/whatever is what you do. But YOU have to be the one mindful of your vehicles grounding scheme. If it's not good, no amount of written instructions will help you achieve a good working electrical system. And Ford was very frugal with grounding on Broncos, because they felt that (at least when new) everything was connected to the battery via the steel body. True enough 50 years ago, but it's why I mention age, rust, dirt and paint and user-modifications in any discussions about grounding.

Bottom line, Im guessing...I have to pull the cover and see whats going on.

The wiper cover? By all means! With wiring, you may just discover a problem lurking anywhere you hadn't looked previously. It's only a few screws, and lets you inspect one more aspect of your new rig anyway.
And this is the perfect opportunity to open up the wiper motor's gearbox and clean and re-grease the gears. And also to apply some sound deadener to the inside of the wiper cover to make those wet drives that little bit more enjoyable.
The grease is now pushing fifty, and probably looks like something else by now. Easy to clean the old stuff out and put some new stuff in. And quieting the linkage noise that can be so prevalent is a good thing these days.
We used to just ignore it as part of the landscape. But now we're spoiled and want peace and quiet more than we used to care about.

Back in the day, I would have not hesitated to take the cover off and look but because the harness looks untouched, thought there was going to be an easy answer. There is the backward action of the ignition switch still haunting me.

Did I miss that part? Or is my senile old mind forgetting? No, don't answer that!;)
What backward action of the ignition switch?

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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And speaking of grounds...
Here is where you should start your wiring adventure, just to make sure you are not fighting the system the whole way.

Ground, ground, ground every aspect!
Ford originally had the main grounds to the engine and to the fender. Most people have lost the fender one (which is absolutely critical!) and Ford never had one between the engine and body separately.

So first, make sure your main battery cables, including ground cable are at least 4ga. This is slightly overkill, but for a good cause.

Next, make sure you have at least a 10ga wire from the battery negative to the body in at least one place. Usually just adjacent at the wheel well. Often under a screw/bolt holding the starter relay to the fender.

Next add another ground wire/strap between the back of the engine block/intake manifold to the firewall/body. This can also be a 10ga wire, or you can even buy those dedicated grounding straps at the local auto parts stores pre-made with ring terminals at each end. About 10" or so long maybe? Work great for this.

There are bolts on the firewall you can use, but I like to use a dedicated through-bolt in a nice hidden spot that can also be utilized on the other side under the dash as an additional grounding point on the body. Scrape/sand/grind the paint off around the hole, and when finished you can spritz a bit of paint on the body, bolt and wires there to keep any exposed areas from rusting in the future. Doesn't hurt the grounding once it's tight to paint over the top of it lightly.

And back to the lack of good old grounding points, I always use that, or another grounding point to attach the dash board to. This lets the instruments see a good clean ground, along with anything else you care to ground there, such as the heater blower motor and things like that.
On that same direction, adding the aforementioned extra jumper wire between either the body, or the dash, to the windshield frame is a big bonus for both your dome light and the wiper motor functions.

And last, don't hesitate to ground the frame/chassis of the truck. In spite of so many saying it's just not important, it really can be. Yes, most of the loads that pass through the frame are miniscule or non-existant. But doing so now will allow you to use the frame as a convenient grounding point for future additions.
Most other items towards the rear, such as the fuel sending units and the rear lights, are grounded through the body and not the frame. But it never hurts to add that capacity.

And though I don't know this for a fact, I think grounding the frame reduces the amount of metal that can create "noise" in an electrical system. Later model vehicles even ground the hoods! And it's not always just for an under-hood light. I think it reduces RFI just that little bit more.
Maybe I'm wrong, but it makes me feel better to put it on the list.;D

Anyway, doing all of those (or at least checking to see if they were done previously) can go a long way towards a healthy and happy electrical system.
And if you go EFI in the future, it can make or break an install.

Paul
 
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Flying Pigs

Flying Pigs

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Oct 29, 2018
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Elgin, IL
The collar with the 3 tabs that gets pressed against the dash by the spring was my problem. This piece has to turn for my bezel to turn and lock. I found the perfect tool and was able to grip the bezel...the dog was upset and I griping the hell out of it and still couldnt turn it.

Then I got this idea to check the bezel in the hole. I finally noticed that the bezel sat in the holes in the dash and pushed and twisted from the back side. Like butter.

Is the secret of the ignition install in the same drawer as the Bronco schematic?

Here comes the parade.....
 

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Flying Pigs

Flying Pigs

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Thanks Paul for the locations.....Was noticing that a lot of the grounds were missing....I understand they are just as important to the circuit to function correctly. Im off to the garage but first a beer to celebrate and back to my happy place.....Going out to dinner tonight.
 
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