Noob needs metal work advice

[Redbark]

Hello,

I've just started into a new to me '68 project, which seems to have lived a very hard life. It needs a ton of work, including floor replacements, panels, etc, but the saving grace is the basic tub is nice and solid.
I'm new to metal working and welding. I've picked up a 110V Mig welder, I've been practicing a bit and I'm about ready to dig in.
I have new floor panels that I'll be installing. That seems fairly straight forward, what with all the excellent advice here. I'd like some advice on another area that needs some attention.
The hard top bolt holes in the top of the upper quarter panel are ripped and pulled. I've attached photos of two examples.
This first example is the worst one.

How should I tackle this? Cut out a nice square, weld in a patch to match and re-drill or some other approach?

The second example, is more common on this truck.

The metal around the bolt hole is raised and split. Should I open up the crack, get things fairly flat, weld the crack up then grind smooth? If another option is better I'd appreciate the advice.
Thanks in advance.

 

[nickgp]

Hammer and dolly it till it flushes up. Light to medium hammer taps working from the outer areas working in a circular fashion towards the center. Once you have it looking fairly smooth, true up the hole to receive its patch. Make the patch out of similar thickness metal. Tack in place carefully. Don't use too much heat in any one area. Spot weld it all the way around. Spot weld the crack too. While welding, continue to use the body hammer to keep things aligned. Grind the welds flat. You should have no holes or gaps when done. Finish with some body filler and your on your way to saying lets do a frame off!

 

[sykanr0ng]

Buy or make a welding 'spoon' which is a good sized piece of copper used for backing when welding sheet metal.
Weld does not stick to the copper and it keeps the weld where it should be instead of building up on the back or falling through.
I have used the end 'blades' of industrial electrical fuses about 3/16 inch thick to make them.

 

[Wyflyer]

Buy or make a welding 'spoon' which is a good sized piece of copper used for backing when welding sheet metal.
Weld does not stick to the copper and it keeps the weld where it should be instead of building up on the back or falling through.
I have used the end 'blades' of industrial electrical fuses about 3/16 inch thick to make them.

Yes this ^^^

 

[Toddpole]

If you plan on running the hardtop and possibly take it off occasionally, I would recommend making an assembly that retains the nuts in place under the bed rails. Something like a piece of 1-1/2" flat strap. Drill holes in the proper locations and weld nuts in place. Then you can attach it under the rail. You could weld studs under the rail to hold the strap in place. Be sure it's solid enough to hold while tightening the top down and won't rattle when the top is off.

 

[Redbark]

Thanks for the advice all. A friend let me borrow his copper heat sink. I need to visit the salvage your to get one of my own.
I like the idea of mounting the nuts underneath as well. The flat stock should give it a bit more strength.

 

[EricLar80]

One thing to mention - it's generally better to cut a hole that has rounded corners than to cut sharp corners. The sharp corners can end up as stress rises and cause another issue later.

In a case like this one, it would have been easy to make the replacement piece with the rounded corners and then trace the shape in the section to repair. Then cut out on the line and weld the piece back in. But, like others said, just weld it up.

Eric

 

[sykanr0ng]

One thing to mention - it's generally better to cut a hole that has rounded corners than to cut sharp corners. The sharp corners can end up as stress rises and cause another issue later.

In a case like this one, it would have been easy to make the replacement piece with the rounded corners and then trace the shape in the section to repair. Then cut out on the line and weld the piece back in. But, like others said, just weld it up.

Eric

Building on what he said; if you have a crack that you can't fix right away drill a hole (1/8th inch is plenty) at the end of the crack.
That will stop the crack from getting any longer.

 

[Redbark]

At the hammer and dolly stage is there any value in warming up the metal a bit with a torch?

 

[Rustytruck]

This looks like a U14 half cab truck with the side rails drilled by the owner? I would weld up the cracks and then use a step drill to cut a nice round hole and weld in a nice round disc of sheet metal. Then grind everything flat. Then layout the hole pattern you want. Start with a small drill bit and then use a step drill to get nice round holes of the proper size.

 

[Redbark]

No, just a U15 ridden hard and put away wet!

 

[nickgp]

The hammering creates its own heat so no, don't heat it

 

[Skiddy]

At the hammer and dolly stage is there any value in warming up the metal a bit with a torch?

no need to pre heat at all on thinner material. it will be hard enough to keep it from burning through