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NWMP 23 gallon tank mounting with a skid plate question.

langester

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I did some searching and didn't get the info I was hoping for. I bought this tank used a couple years ago, its in great shape, came with the strap, and was a good deal.
I finally got to the point in my build to get it mounted up. I had to weld some additional 1" spacers to get it to fit right to match the 1" body lift.
I wanted a skid plate so I bent one up out of 1/8" plate. I was thinking about mounting the skip plate over the strap that secures the tank and weld some brackets to it and secure it to the frame. Here are some pics of the tank mounted and a jack holding the skid plate in place for now.
Does anyone see any potential problems going this route? Seems like a good idea in my mind but, I appreciate any input you Folks might have.
Thanks in advance!
 

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DirtDonk

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I don't see anything wrong with that idear. Seems sensible to me anyway.
I can't even remember how the original skid plate was mounted to mine, but I think it was just held up by the strap along with the tank.
Having it bolted seems like added protection. If you're going to go off-roading seriously, your design is probably helpful in retaining the tank.

On a side note, I like putting the spring bolts in from the outside. The factory did it this way on "most" EB's and even though I'm pretty sure some came off the line like yours, it always made sense to me that the head of the bolt was on the outside and the nut and threads were protected inside the pocket of the hangers.

Up to you of course, but I thought I'd mention it while you're still at the point where the spring bolts are loose and easily accessible with all the tools and stands and garage paraphernalia.;D

Paul
 
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langester

langester

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Thanks for the reply. I am not sure I understand what you mean about the bolts. The strap is secured with J bolts to the frame holes, the strap was formed the way you see it. I didn't see any other way to mount it when I did it. I might be having a brain dead moment, can you explain what you are describing. I appreciate the help Sir!
 
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langester

langester

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My brain kicked back in! I see what you are talking about now. Had my head stuck in the wrong place, pulled it out now! The reason I put them in like that was due to the last 3 sets I had to remove. I had to beat them out because of all the rust so I decided to put them in this direction to make it a bit easier to swing the hammer without hitting the tank.
Thanks for the reply, I always appreciate your wisdom on all things Bronco. I will look at it again next time I am at the shop. I see the logic in having them the other direction.
Thank you Sir! Always appreciate the help!
 
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langester

langester

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On a side note, none of the shackle bolts are tight yet. I was waiting to get it all built and bounce it around a few times before tightening everything up. This will make it easier to reverse those bolts if that ends up happening.
Thanks again!
 

DirtDonk

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I figured that's what you were up to. I always do the same thing.
And not a bad idea really when it comes to beating a bolt into submission either! But I think this time, what with everything being new (and possibly even plated?) and perhaps even greased up(?) rusty bolts are not likely to happen in your lifetime anyway.
Then again, this is a Bronco we're talking about!%)

Hmm, I wonder if the ones I saw with bolts like yours from the factory were later models. Maybe like many other things, Ford saw what was happening to things and put them in reversed for just the reason you talk about.
I guess that makes it one more thing we need to keep a database on! Just add it to the list...

Paul
 

nvrstuk

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Skid plate design looks great. I run almost exactly the same style...have been since I put the NWMP 23 gal tank in the mid '80's.

Lube the bolts so they won't get "frozen" in place in the year 2048. :)
 
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langester

langester

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Thanks for the replies! I think I greased the bolts when I installed them but I will double check. I will flip them around and add it if I missed that step. Been a few years since they were installed. I can't remember what I did yesterday, much less that far back. Hopefully this thing is running before 2048 and the rust starts back up! Ha!
Always appreciate the input, Thanks again!
 

.94 OR

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I like your idea of mounting the skid plate separate.

I am doing the same thing on mine and figured I would just have to pinch the plate with the mounting strap. Since I have a factory skid plate, I may cut the sides off it to use as a bolting flange then extend some pieces down to the new plate so it will bolt on after the tank is mounted. Belt and suspenders for the tank that way.
 
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langester

langester

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Seems like a good idea to me, post up some pics of yours when you get done.
I am going to mock up some templates from poster board and then fab up some mounts to weld to the skid plate. Not sure where my mount points will be yet.
Thanks for the reply!
 
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langester

langester

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Before I made mine I did a search and the skid plate you guys sell popped up first. I used it for reference. I was not sure how it mounted or what it looked like. If I had not had the steel and the tools handy I would have ordered one in a heart beat. Love me some WildHorses, always my first choice!
 

.94 OR

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Any special goop to use on the tank/pump flange and the fuel sender flange?

I'm not looking forward to mounting the fuel hoses and wires while trying to get the tank in place.

Being a holiday, I have to wait until tomorrow to get electrical connector cleaner for the fuel sending unit as it doesn't read any variable resistance yet across the sweep.
 
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langester

langester

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I had to get a new sending unit, mine would not read at all. Probably the original one, I got the tank second hand. My sender came with a new rubber gasket, I didn't use anything else. No pump in my tank so the fuel pick up is just a tube welded to the bottom of the tank and easy to reach just below the cross member. The hoses on mine look simple to hook up after the tank is in place. I hooked the ground wire to my sender before I installed the tank, I will find a place to ground it to the frame at some point. I have a 1" body lift on mine so I am able to reach the unit to attach the fuel gauge wire. If not I can see that being a bit of a mess trying to juggle all of those connections and put it in place.
 

.94 OR

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Thanks.

Looking at getting the pump ready to drop in and found this oddity. There is the grey dust cap, but the opaque layer seems odd. Is it supposed to come off, or is it a spacer to use the larger supplied pressure line to the mounting plate?
 

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langester

langester

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No idea on that. Mine only has the hole for the sending unit. Wish I could help but I have no idea. Good luck, post up if you do get an answer.
 

Dlish

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same tank, and same body lift, but my tank is lifted to the body without additional spacers (just the little ones that are factory on the tank.)

And, mounting the tank and skid plate separately is a great idea. I have removed the tank/skid plate via a rock that got hooked on the strap, it was a real pain to ratchet strap the gas tank up for the rest of the day.
 

.94 OR

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I wish Tom's would update their instructions to match what they sell.

Anyway, got a mount for my inline fuel filter printed up today while I did other things. Hose clamp wraps around the center of the filter and a 5/16" bolt fastens it down.
 

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langester

langester

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Dlish, my tank had a bump out on the front that hit the cross member in front of the tank without adding the extra inch of spacer. I thought about cutting that out of the tank and making the front face flat, that would have allowed mine to go up that extra inch. I am glad you had a strap to get you home!

.94 OR, that is a slick bracket, nice job!
 
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