• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

One wire alternator

purkey

Newbie
Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
43
The previous owner installed a one wire alternator which might be going bad (dead battery after charging and going for a ride). If I have to get an alternator, what do you ask for at the parts store. There are no markings on the alternator.

Once the battery recharges I plan to check voltage at the battery as a quick check to see if it's charging or a bad battery (battery was bought new in May 15).

Thanks
 

RPM289

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2008
Messages
835
Could be a GM one wire alt lets see a pic and we can tell you what it is. I have one on mine works great!

Mike
 
OP
OP
P

purkey

Newbie
Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
43
Sorry I had to sign up to be a contributor again so I could upload pics
 

Attachments

  • 2017 alt back .jpg
    2017 alt back .jpg
    76 KB · Views: 195
  • 2017 alt overall.jpg
    2017 alt overall.jpg
    77.1 KB · Views: 173

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,646
Loc.
Upper SoKA
GM based custom. I'd swap it to something common and not all hot-roddy unless the Bronco is a hot rod. In which case you need to find a quality starter/generator/alternator rebuild shop in your area. DO NOT buy a reman and send it back as a core.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,646
Loc.
Upper SoKA
I don't think there is a match. The front half of the case is a billet or pseudo-billet piece, the fan is the same, and the pulley is serpentine. As I recall the GM serpentine pulleys have one more groove than do the Ford pulleys I'm going to guess it is a Ford application pulley on a GM 10S or 12S alternator frame.

Which is why I suggest either replacing it with something common like an off the shelf Ford 3G alternator (& sort out the required bracketry for that) or find a good starter/generator/alternator shop in your area and have that one rebuilt.
 
OP
OP
P

purkey

Newbie
Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
43
I would like to go with a more readliy available altenator, how hard would it be to change to what was mentioned above? I've upgraded to a painless harness last year
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,646
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Looks to me like they fit a GM alternator in place of a Motorcraft. I'd start with the alternator for what ever that front drive system's application is ('92 Crown Vic, '89 F-150 or whatever it is). See if that has enough amps for you, what the series is (3G, 4G, etc.) and go from there.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,861
Where do the Red and the Black w/yellow wires go currently? Guessing where they normally do, but hate to guess in such cases.
With the Bronco-specific Painless harness the Black w/yellow should go to the cabin, through the ammeter and then back out to the Black wire at the starter relay. This last one has a Maxi-Fuse of about 80 amps or so most likely.
If the fuse had blown, you would not have any power. So that should still be good.

Did the Red wire jump straight to the battery or starter relay? Is it going through a fuse too? If so, that fuse could be bad, but in that case you should still be getting power through the Black w/yellow wire.

If you do not know how many amps this alternator is capable of putting out, you should definitely find out. Because if it's a 100amp or more unit you could find yourself in dire straights if the Black wire has to do all the work. It's not designed for that much current. Hence the short Red wire.

If you do go with a 3G, whether it's the 95 or the 130 amp version, I would remove the Black w/yellow wire completely and go with a larger wire straight to the battery. That's what Painless recommends in their book, and it's what Ford does from the factory.

If this turns out to be a more modest 60 to 80 amp alternator, you're probably fine keeping the wiring as it is.

Good luck.
But don't just throw away that old alternator. Someone spent some decent money installing that at one point. Either sell it on if you go with a more common swap, or have it rebuilt.
I prefer the Ford units on the Ford vehicles with Ford wiring, but the unit you have can be made to work.

Paul
 

Steve83

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
9,112
Loc.
Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Sorry I had to sign up to be a contributor again so I could upload pics
Nothing wrong with being a contributor, but it's not a requirement for posting pics.
http://www.supermotors.net/forums/thid-5972-how-do-i-post-pictures-sounds-and-or-videos

Your pics appear to show that alt mounted to an '87-91 bracket, so you could easily convert to a 3G by doing what this pic & the NEXT several show, and their captions explain:


https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/566009 (for phone apps)
 
Last edited:

1strodeo

Contributor
Squirrel Watcher
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
3,599
Loc.
Wisconsin
Sorry I had to sign up to be a contributor again so I could upload pics

Thank you for renewing your Contributor status, makes it much easier not only to post pics but for other members to view them, and for a mere $1 per month helps the one guy that runs this great site!
 
OP
OP
P

purkey

Newbie
Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
43
I checked my voltage at the battery at idle and at 2000 rpm and only got 12.09 volts across the battery terminals. The red wire went to the starter relay.

I started tracing the wires from the alternator and according to the painless wiring diagram. I found the following:
-the green/red #914 wire was not installed on the stub in accordance with the diagram on page 65. I placed it on the stub when I found it with no change in voltage results.
-the yellow wire coming from the voltage regulator was still installed as far as I could trace it; the others were cut off at the regulator IAW the painless diagram, the orange wire was not cut but taped up inside the wire loom.

I did not install the painless harness but had a shop do it last August. About a month after the install, the ammeter stopped working but before it stopped it was reading negative. After they installed it, I was double checking their work (apparently not good enough though) and realized they wired it per the original alternator instructions, they went back and installed it per the Delco diagram.
 

Attachments

  • voltage regulator with wires cut.jpg
    voltage regulator with wires cut.jpg
    74.5 KB · Views: 42

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,861
Just keeping that old regulator in the vehicle can lead to some confusion. It's completely superfluous if that's the proper term here. If you are going to retain a modern, internally regulated alternator, whether 1-wire or standard, you not only do NOT need the old regulator anywhere, any time, but should remove it just to avoid clutter and confusion.
The actual regulator that does the work is now inside the alternator and always will be.

The ammeter does not work, or will work only sporadically because it's literally no longer in the loop (literally). The ammeter is on the Black w/yellow wire still, but the Red wire for the higher output alternator literally is bypassing most of the current flow. The ammeter will mostly only show something from the fuse box that's using power now. But the battery is being charged for the most part, directly through the Red wire.

As you suspected, 12v while the engine is running is not enough. Should be 13.5 to 14.5 for a good reliable efficient charge.

The Green w/red wire is not needed on a 1-wire alternator. Only a standard internally regulated wire like a standard 3G or similar.

The Yellow wire is no longer in use either.

The Orange wire from the old regulator is obviously not used, because nothing from the old regulator is needed.

Not sure exactly what the short Red wire between the side terminal and the main terminal is doing on the alternator either. On 1-wire setups one of those terminals is for a dash charging light to let you know if the alternator is not working.
I don't want you to damage a good alternator, but since it doesn't work anyway, you might consider unplugging that wire and seeing what happens.

Better yet, contact or check the websites of several of the fancy alternator companies. I don't see any labels on it, but you might check underneath just in case. Could be a Tuff-Stuff setup, could be from one of the serpentine companies, or even MSD (though it does not look like an MSD unit to me) or any of a number of companies. Be nice if it had some identifying markings on it so you could find out just what that wire is doing there on the side.

Maybe that's in the Painless diagrams? Have you spoken to Eric yet by any chance? He's the Painless guy that made the harness and wrote the instruction book on it too. You can PM him through this site as well, via eric0o1 here.
Of course, you really should take the alternator down to a local auto store, if you have one with technically savvy employees, and have them test it.

Good luck.

Pauil
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,646
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Some one-wire GM based alternators have that short jumper wire. Others have it internal to the unit. It is necessary to excite the field just like a two wire GM alternator needs an ignition position source applied to that side terminal. As I recall it is the alt's 'I' terminal.

One-wires usually need to be rev'd up a bit before they 'turn on'. It's one of their typical features that I'm not fond of.
 
OP
OP
P

purkey

Newbie
Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
43
Had the alternator checked and it failed. Found a sticker saying it was a powermaster 37100. Ordered a new one from summit tonight and emailed painless with alternator specs to get proper instructions.

Thanks for everyone's help
 
Top