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optima batteries

OptimaJim

New Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2009
Messages
22
Hi guys, I saw some confusion about our batteries in this thread, so I thought I’d stop by and try to help clarify some things. Our RedTop batteries are starting batteries and are not designed for deep-cycle applications, like winching. Our YellowTop batteries are true dual-purpose batteries and work well in deep-cycle applications, in addition to having great starting capabilities. We actually have two different types of BlueTop batteries, which are designed for marine use. BlueTop batteries with a dark gray case are marine versions of our RedTop starting battery, while BlueTop batteries with a light gray case are the marine version of our YellowTop dual-purpose deep-cycle/starting battery.

While our RedTop starting batteries can recover from a deep discharge better than a traditional wet, lead acid battery, our YellowTop dual-purpose batteries are specifically designed to recover from numerous deep discharge situations and will hold up to this type of application much better over time. Whether it’s a Yellow, Red or BlueTop, as long as the battery specifications meet your application, they can all be used effectively as starting batteries.

As for warranties, all new Optima YellowTop & RedTop batteries come with three-year warranties and all BlueTop batteries come with two-year warranties for consumer applications.

Handdodge, overcharging will damage any battery. For an Optima we recommend 13.7 to 14.7 volts output from the alternator.

Pokey71, I’m sorry to hear about your negative experience with one of our batteries. It sounds very unusual that one of our customer service reps would hang up on a customer. Do you have any information remaining from that battery, whether it’s a serial number or sales receipt? If so, I’d like to look into your situation a little further.

Dirtdonk, I'm sorry for the confusion about the battery types. Yours is probably our most frequestly asked question and is something we’re trying hard to clarify. Internally, BlueTop batteries are the same as their similar YellowTop (D34m, D27m, D31m) or RedTop (34m) counterparts. The difference is that BlueTops have both automotive and male-threaded studs, for easy connections to your trolling motor, etc.

The charging technique DirtDonk is referring to is as follows:

To charge your Optima battery with a regular charger, you can wire a second fully-charged automotive battery (12V+) to the discharged Optima in parallel (+ to + and – to –). Then hook up the charger to the discharged battery, setting the charger at 10 amps for 2 hours and monitoring it frequently. When the discharged battery reaches 10.5 volts or more, remove the second battery and continue charging the Optima until fully charged.

Typically, we recommend charging at a relatively low current, such as 2 amps, but when the battery has been deeply discharged, some sulfation of the battery plates may have occurred. If you charge at 10 amps, the higher current will help to break up this sulfation.

If you have an automatic charger, let it run until the charger indicates charging is complete. If you have a manual charger, estimate charging time by multiplying the capacity (amp hours or Ah) of the battery by 1.2 for a rough estimate of charging time in hours.

In most cases, these steps will recover an Optima battery. It’s ok for the Optima battery to get slightly warm during the charging process, but hot to the touch means there’s a short and the process should be discontinued. If you’d rather not deal with that, you can always take your battery to a professional battery specialist, like Interstate, who knows AGM technology. Most of them are willing to provide “charge and check” procedures for a small fee and many will provide the service for free.

JW0707, if you are only jumping your vehicle, and not using a battery charger to bring the battery back up, this could be the source of your problems. If you need to jump your battery to start your vehicle, you should fully-charge your battery with a battery charger as soon as possible. If not, your vehicle’s alternator may not fully-charge your battery and you could find yourself frequently jump-starting your vehicle, while shortening the life of both your alternator and your battery.

Optima was acquired by Johnson Controls in 2000. During their ownership of Optima, Johnson Controls has constantly sought out ways to make better batteries in the most efficient process possible. The batteries we are manufacturing today are the best we have ever made and many of the batteries returned to us now as being “bad” are simply deeply-discharged. If you have any other questions, I’ll do my best to answer them. We appreciate your interest in Optima Batteries!

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, Optima Batteries
 

badasstrapper

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
119
i have sold optimas in my auto parts store since they came out. Its the only battery i will put in my own cars and trucks. Even still some people seem to have problems with them. had an uncle with a farm had to quit selling them to him all I ever did was warrenty them. Some people can make them last for ever. Still I think they are the best battery hands down. By the way I retail them for $149.99 red top
 

matt w

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 12, 2007
Messages
2,799
Yep, red top is a normal starting battery not for deep cycle use
Yellow top is a deep cycle battery not for starting use
Blue top is a deep cycle battery capable of starting duties.

My 10 year old Optima is still in use. I have a collection of old dead just out of warranty late model Optimas sitting on the side of the house. They keep the dirt under them from blowing away.


Ya know I have a Red-Top 10 year old Optima also! ;D

...It seems as if it the last battery I will ever buy! heh-heh ;D
 

ADNICK

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Messages
107
When I was doing research for my dual battery setup

I came across several sites that had links to this exchange (white text is the guy asking the questions):

> If it turns out I shouldn't run the winch through the switch, should I hardwire it to the auto battery, the marine, or both then? Can I just run a lead directly from both + terminals to the winch?

I'd use the automotive battery for the winch...

> Just had another thought, could I run through the switch but say have a 350 amp breaker in both + leads before the switch to protect it? Where on earth does one get 350 amp 12v breaker?

--From an electrical utility company... Nah- I wouldn't bother. If you push it too hard, it'll let 'ya know. Don't worry about the cables- they'll give you warning. Worry about the battery- it won't.
You'd be better off winching with a large cranking battery, rather than a deep-cycle, though- the deep-cycle has thick plates, and is intended for deep discharge over a long period of time, not deep discharge at high current.



> I have both a high power automotive cranking battery (Energizer 900 amps
/ 750 cca) and an energizer deep cycle marine 700 marine ca / 550 cca - 140
reserve (dunno what the 140 refers to). I figured by having both types I
could exploit the strengths of both depending on the situation, but it's
becoming clear I have no real understanding of what I'm up to! :)



Use the high-CCA battery- its internal resistance is lower. Deep cycles don't do high discharge rates... they'll push a 10A load for days,
but don't like pushing a 100A load for more than a minute...


> oooo - that sounds bad. I only suggested winching from the DC because if you were to run it flat, it would be recoverable whereas reg. auto batteries will not recover even from a single total discharge, I know
because I've gone through 3 in the last year - mostly by leaving the
battery connected and not driving the Jeep for 3 months while I hack off
axles and suspension and the like.



Yeah, you can do any battery good harm... I've found that in many cases, you can bring a DOA battery back just by connecting battery charger and a half-dozen resistors (to limit charge current) and let it charge for a week or two... Use a 20A charger, but limit the charge current to 5A or so... pull out a resistor every three-four days to keep it at the 5A level... you can get 'em back, as long as you haven't shorted a cell or broken a plate....
 
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