Painless wiring kit question

[joelhakes]

Hello all. Thanks for any help anyone could provide. I have a 1971 Ford Bronco. I am not using Duraspark etc. Completely original ignition setup.

There are two #970 wires. One coming from the engine section and another coming from the passenger side section. Via the instructions, I am very confused as to where these two wires connect? The diagrams are saying from the Starter Selenoid “I” to the + side of the coil. But there are two separate 970 wires.

Is there anyone that could help me? I would be so incredibly grateful!

Currently, I connected the 970 brown coil wire from the passenger section of the harness to the starter selenoid “I”. And the 970 coil wire from the engine section to the + of the coil.

 

[thegreatjustino]

@Viperwolf1 helped design the Painless harness and can wire and entire Bronco with his eyes closed and one hand tied behind his back.

 

[fordguy]

Hello all. Thanks for any help anyone could provide. I have a 1971 Ford Bronco. I am not using Duraspark etc. Completely original ignition setup.

There are two #970 wires. One coming from the engine section and another coming from the passenger side section. Via the instructions, I am very confused as to where these two wires connect? The diagrams are saying from the Starter Selenoid “I” to the + side of the coil. But there are two separate 970 wires.

Is there anyone that could help me? I would be so incredibly grateful!

Currently, I connected the 970 brown coil wire from the passenger section of the harness to the starter selenoid “I”. And the 970 coil wire from the engine section to the + of the coil.

So you are running points and condenser? Also look in the back of the manual and look for the 970 wire. It will tell you function and origin, 970 is listed twice total in different sections.

 

[guilty1]

Just finished that section of wiring using painless on a 67. The way I understand it is you have it hooked up correctly. The purpose being to supply supplemental 12v to coil + terminal during startup. Making sure a full 12v while cranking the starter.

 

[joelhakes]

So you are running points and condenser? Also look in the back of the manual and look for the 970 wire. It will tell you function and origin, 970 is listed twice total in different sections.

I am running points and condenser. I also have a ballast resistor. All is wired correctly. Just confusing why the 970 would run from the passenger side harness all the way along the main into the engine side harness. Seems easier to just supply a short wire that goes directly from the solenoid to the coil.

 

[joelhakes]

Just finished that section of wiring using painless on a 67. The way I understand it is you have it hooked up correctly. The purpose being to supply supplemental 12v to coil + terminal during startup. Making sure a full 12v while cranking the starter.

Guilty1 - Thank you so much. I wish they would explain this in the directions. I’m not the smartest guy but this would really make a lot more sense. Such a great harness. Set up awesome but just confusing given the diagrams. Thanks again!!!! Good luck with your project!

 

[joelhakes]

Well everyone I was pretty excited. All wired up. I switched the ignition and coil to the Pertronix ignitor II along with the flame thrower coil. I removed the ballast resistor.

Unfortunately, when I turn the ignition to ON the starter kicks in and tries to start. The same thing if I turn the ignition counter clockwise one click left from ACC setting. It tries to start. I have no NSS so I connected the wires together.

I tried replacing the ignition switch and it did not help. I am baffled.

Starter solenoid is wired per painless with alternator not exceeding 70 amps.

The coil has the brown 970 wire to the + side. Also has the 920 wire red/green from the fuse block (which previous went thru the ballast resistor). Lastly, the red wire from the ingnitor II.

The negative side of coil has the black ignitor II wire.

I’m at a loss here. Painless pre wires the ignition switch. And the switch is not the problem. I cant imagine the solenoid would be bad since it turns over?

I’d so appreciate any help someone could provide. Thanks in advance!

Gratefully, Joel

 

[Oldtimer]

How are the two small wires connected to the starter relay (what color wire to which post)?
If they are backwards the brown wire from foil will back feed to S terminal on relay. It needs to connect to I terminal.

 

[joelhakes]

How are the two small wires connected to the starter relay (what color wire to which post)?
If they are backwards the brown wire from foil will back feed to S terminal on relay. It needs to connect to I terminal.

Thanks Oldtimer. The NSS is connected to the S terminal and the brown 970 coil wire is connected to the I terminal. However, the screw terminals on the solenoid are loose and do push into the solenoid. Not sure if that is common or

 

[DirtDonk]

There should be no loose connections on a starter relay.

Somehow power is coming through the red with blue wire to the “S“ post on the relay. Should not be there unless the key is in the START position. So either your second ignition switch is also bad, or there are some wires crossed somewhere.
Could be a bad connector at the back of the ignition switch.

Sounds like you are not running an automatic transmission. Correct?
If so, the red w/blue wire should come straight from the ignition switch.

I have seen faulty ignition switch connectors from China before. You might have to pull yours off and test it.
The fact that the starter cranks in both ON and ACC positions, says that there are some wires or connections crossed somewhere.

 

[joelhakes]

Thanks DirtDonk. Yeah the red blue wire is coming directly from the ignition thru the passenger side harness. But the engine doesn’t try to start in the ACC position. The switch has one more position counter clockwise of the ACC position where it tries to start.


QUOTE="DirtDonk, post: 3601446, member: 9670"]
There should be no loose connections on a starter relay.

Somehow power is coming through the red with blue wire to the “S“ post on the relay. Should not be there unless the key is in the START position. So either your second ignition switch is also bad, or there are some wires crossed somewhere.
Could be a bad connector at the back of the ignition switch.

Sounds like you are not running an automatic transmission. Correct?
If so, the red w/blue wire should come straight from the ignition switch.

I have seen faulty ignition switch connectors from China before. You might have to pull yours off and test it.
The fact that the starter cranks in both ON and ACC positions, says that there are some wires or connections crossed somewhere.
[/QUOTE]

 

[joelhakes]

Yes it’s a manual transmission. I’ll try another ignition switch. Replace the starter solenoid and if that doesn’t solve the problem, I’ll call painless and see about getting another ignition switch connector. Thx so much for your help. Everything is def hooked up correctly. Ugh. I’ll post once I get it all figured out. Thanks again !


QUOTE="DirtDonk, post: 3601446, member: 9670"]
There should be no loose connections on a starter relay.

Somehow power is coming through the red with blue wire to the “S“ post on the relay. Should not be there unless the key is in the START position. So either your second ignition switch is also bad, or there are some wires crossed somewhere.
Could be a bad connector at the back of the ignition switch.

Sounds like you are not running an automatic transmission. Correct?
If so, the red w/blue wire should come straight from the ignition switch.

I have seen faulty ignition switch connectors from China before. You might have to pull yours off and test it.
The fact that the starter cranks in both ON and ACC positions, says that there are some wires or connections crossed somewhere.
[/QUOTE]

 

[joelhakes]

Old timer and Dirt Donk thanks again guys. It was the starter solenoid. A simple fix. I didn’t put it in. The previous owner did. It was installed upside down and there were not S or I indicated on the component. I just took it as it was installed and previously hooked up. I should have known better but the damn thing worked great as it was previously hooked up. So happy it’s all working. Best thing I’ve done to this fine vehicle is rewire! Thanks again.

 

[DirtDonk]

Great news!
There’s one brand out there that prefers theIRS mounted upside down. It’s a big name, but I can’t remember what it is.
Maybe the PO bought a regular one and installed it like they were used to with the other brand.
This is why lots of pictures help diagnose things too, sometimes.

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and there is no additional position counterclockwise of ACC. If it goes past that without you putting a paperclip into the small hole of the cylinder face, then something is wrong.

There are only four legitimate positions of the ignition switch, short of trying to remove it.
There is OFF in the center, ACC to the left of that, ON to the right of OFF, and START further to the right.
You can turn the key too far clockwise and actually have the ignition function drop off while the starter is cranking. Anything counterclockwise of ACC is worth checking into.

I’m glad you found the issue. Because a company like Painless is rarely going to replace a part without someone fully testing at first.

 

[Torkman66]

Check pre wiring on back of ignition switch. Make sure it is wired correctly.